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The Day That Was Day #5

Tuesday, October 31st, 2006

Today we had nothing planned. The weather, for the first time, was horrible — rainy and gloomy all day long. Hopes were still high that we’d find a flight to Cairo for 3 days. We went to more travel agencies and found nothing. I was really, really bummed. I feel like I am always able to find solutions to problems but I can’t find any solution for what to do with our extra days. I am kicking myself for skipping Pamukkale.

When it became clear we would not be leaving Istanbul today, we checked out of the Side Hostel and called up our old pal Mehmet and booked a room there at the Apricot that night. On the phone, Jim tried to make it sound like we’d just gotten back into town so Mehmet wouldn’t know we “cheated on him” and stayed somewhere else. When we arrived at the hotel with our bags, Jim accidentally let it slip that we saw the outdoor concert last night and Mehmet was like, “Oh, you were in Istanbul last night??” And we lamely lied that we stayed in Beyoglu. I don’t like lying to Mehmet!!

I mentioned that Jim had a cold and Mehmet immediately asked us if we wanted some special tea. Jim said Yes but I said No thanks, but Mehmet said I HAD to drink it so I didn’t get sick too. He disappeared for a few minutes then came back with a tray with cups of nice mint-lemon tea and sugar cubes. Then he asked Jim if he wanted some lentil soup, and disappeared again and returned with a tray with 2 bowls of soup and a basket of bread. Do you see why we love this guy?! (Again, we aren’t the only ones.) Jim mumbled to Mehmet, who was across the room, “Thanks mom.” “You’re welcome, son” he replied. Ha! He told us that his boss is on vacation and that’s why he’s been working nonstop. Apparently he worked a 72 hour shift last week without a break, just occasionally catching a few minutes nap on the couch. Wow. He also complained about Turkish women and said maybe he’ll marry a Greek girl instead. According to him, all Turkish girls think they are god’s gift even when they are not. But I digress.

Afterwards, we took a cab to the Kariye Museum and got totally ripped off on the fare. We got to the museum, which consists of mosaics inside a small church. I didn’t realize it would be so small and we were done in like 10 minutes.

The plan was then to eat at Asitane, which is supposed to be one of the best restaurants in Istabul… but we weren’t hungry. Well, it was pouring rain so we didn’t feel like walking around so we went and ate anyway. We got an interesting almond soup with a few pomegranite seeds in it. A round pasty with olives and other stuff inside, the usual stuffed grape leaves but with cherries inside, and the main dish of carrot stew with meatballs, lamb, and cinnamon in like a tortilla shell. It was good!

We caught a cab back to Sultanahmet; it was still raining miserably. We spent a long time at the internet cafe still trying to find what we’ll do the next 3 days. Finally we stumbled upon a decent airfare to Amsterdam and remembered our friend Dan lives in Rotterdam, only an hour from Amsterdam. (We hung out with Dan in Brisbane a few years ago.) We bought the tickets and we leave VERY early tomorrow!

I couldn’t believe we were actually going. I have never had a burning desire to go to Amsterdam. Jim was there before a couple years ago.

We chilled for a while and then went to the roof to play some Rummy and get tea for Jim, but it was all closed down. We came down the stairs and mentioned to Mehmet that we were gonna play cards and he asked if we play Texas Hold Em. So we spent the next hour playing poker with him and some guy from California. We betted with toothpicks. It was fun. This is what I miss, some interaction with other people!! Mehmet kept folding his hands and I was like, “but they are only toothpicks!” and then I would catch him chewing on them. He lost all his toothpicks early and went back to the desk to answer emails.

After that we finished packing and went to bed early because our flight it at 5:25 tomorrow AM!!!!

Istanbul Day 4, and finally seeing the sights

Monday, October 30th, 2006

So today is our big sightseeing day, FINALLY!!

That morning we asked the friendly/goofy young guy at our hostel about the outdoor concert we saw last night and he said the guy performing was really famous. I wish I could remember his name. Oh well.

First we took our dirty clothes to a laundry to be cleaned – I only have 2 pairs of pants and my jeans must be be full of Cappadocian dirt from sliding down hills and climbing into caves.

Then we went to Aya Sofia, the place that is supposed to make us speechless when we walk in the door. Let me explain – Aya Sofia is right across from the Blue Mosque. The Blue Mosque is more visually stunning from the outside, but the Aya Sofia more stunning from the inside, apparently. Either way, the sight of these two buildings across the way from each other is awesome. Anyway… Aya Sofia was beautiful but the scaffolding inside hurt the view a bit. Unfortunately it stunk a little like cat pee, too. But obviously it was awesome, etc etc.

Inside the Aya Sofia

Afterwards we saw some women with the full black robes that cover everything but their eyes. I can’t imagine wearing that all day!!!

Next we went to Topkapi Palace. Some of the coolest parts were seeing part of John the Baptist’s hand and skull, Moses’ staff'(!), Mohammed’s sandals and beard hairs(!), and Joseph’s turban!!! We are wondering how on earth they can verify that these things belong to them!?!

Topkapi Entrance
One of the entrances to Topkapi Palace

View from Topkapi
View of Istanbul from Topkapi Palace
We waited in line to go to the Harem but it was just too long and we left and had a lame lunch.

Later we went to the Blue Mosque, and I borrowed one of the plain headscarves to wear inside and was surprised to see many women tourists not wearing the headscarf. It was beautiful inside and a little weird that people were there praying and we were staring at them. On the way out there was a closed off area for “women only” to pray in. Hm.

Inside the Blue Mosque (click for big pics)

Blue Mosque1

Blue Mosque2

That night we went to Beyoglu yet again because it is absolutely DEAD in Sultanahmet!! Not a soul is around. When we got to Taksim Square, we heard music again and found yet another outdoor concert. I was so bummed I didn’t bring a camera. There were Turkish flags everywhere, hanging from buildings, buses, power lines, and people everywhere had them. There were big pictures of Ataturk hanging on buildings, too. The guy performing was named Mustafa Sandal. We watched for a while. There were SO many people there, dancing and singing and having a great time!! It was a fun atmosphere.

Then we left and had dessert and coffee at a cafe but there were so many people smoking we couldn’t take it so we left immediately afterwards and came back to the hostel.

That day we talked continuously about what we were gonna do with so much extra time in Istanbul. I felt very down about it, because I planned our trip and obviously didn’t do a great job. I didn’t want to try to see too much like we did in Spain last year, but I over compensated. We searched on the internet and at travel agencies to try to find a cheap flight somewhere for a couple days but we were striking out on all counts – Budapest, Bucharest, Paris, Athens, Rome, etc. I was really bummed about it because I love Istanbul but it’s getting harder to find ways to spend our valuable time and it’s starting to rain (note: it rained the majority of our last days in Istanbul.)

Guy carrying bread on his head
Random: Guy carrying bread on his head. Bread head.

Back to Istanbul

Saturday, October 28th, 2006
We are now back in Istanbul, and we are not staying at The Apricot, but at a place called the Side Hostel (pronounced see-duh), referred to me by a co-worker. I am crushed that we are not at the Apricot, but ... [Continue reading this entry]

Ephesus

Friday, October 27th, 2006
LAST NIGHT ın GOREME We went back to the hotel for a lıttle whıle and then went out to the cool bar we went to a few nıghts before. We drank Efes beer and smoked the nargıleh agaın. The ... [Continue reading this entry]

Floating over Cappadocia & More Caves

Wednesday, October 25th, 2006
View from the hot air balloon Today our goal was to take our hot air balloon ride and then visit the Göreme Open Air Museum. Then we ... [Continue reading this entry]

Onward to Cappadocia

Sunday, October 22nd, 2006
The next mornıng we partook of the awesome free breakfast at The Apricot, wıth cheese, olıves, cereal, honey, yogurt, bread, mılk, french toast, coffee, and fresh orange juıce and eggs made to order! Wow! We were stuffed. It was ... [Continue reading this entry]

Istanbul – We’ve Arrived

Sunday, October 22nd, 2006
So far, Istanbul ıs amazıng. It ıs very modern and the buıldıngs are breathtakıng. Our hotel had an amazıng vıew of the Blue Mosque, Aya Sofıa and the Bosphorus. We have found the Turkısh people to be very ... [Continue reading this entry]

T minus 4 days

Monday, October 16th, 2006
I have made my list of what I need to bring to Turkey and I'm now searching for all these items. I find it to be kind of theurapeutic, sort of like cutting coupons or vacuuming. I have an old ... [Continue reading this entry]