Tsuglagkhang is the most famous Buddhist temple outside of Llasa, Tibet. It was not at all what I expected. Crude signs pointed the way simply in white letters on small wooden red boards – “Temple” - with an arrow. I wound my way through the housing complex that was apparently for the Tibetan monks. I came upon a set of stairs and immediately was greeted with a rush of warmth and good feeling. Sometimes places just have good energy. You can feel it with your soul. Or maybe it was just the sunshine over the courtyard and the bright yellow walls and pillars. I crossed the courtyard to look out over the valley below as the temple was situated on the edge of the mountain. The courtyard was not too crowded but here and there was a monk sitting cross legged on the ground meditating or a visitor sitting on a bench reading. Nearer the building itself a few people were going through prostrations. Hands clasped in front, then over their heads, and then down they would go to their knees bending their elbows on the way down and ending up lying flat on the ground, face down on a mat, arms stretched out above their heads pointed at the temple. Over and over again they would do this. I made my way around the temple buildings, clockwise as appropriate. I followed the path. The building itself was rather small from what I had imagined – only a couple of rooms with very high ceilings. Around I went, admiring the view of the mountains and valley to my left, with the concrete yellow walls on my right. I came around the back corner to see a set of prayer wheels, the drums all in a row. An old Tibetan woman was walking clockwise, turning the drums as she went, chanting, “Om mani padme hum.” Inside the temple was a sweet, almost pungent, smell I didn’t recognize until I saw the four Indian men dressed in western clothes varnishing the wooden floor before the simple alter. It was very simple, not garish. It felt good.