Mumblings and Musings…

Every time I drive down HWY 1 through Big Sur, I am overcome with the urge to jump out of my car, run into the forest, and take up residence in a yurt…nestled among the redwoods and perched atop the ragged coastline. The rest of the world be damned!

So far I have managed to restrain myself. But, one of these days….

There is just such a strong magic to the place. A magic that enters your lungs along with that first deep breath of dark piney woods and salty ocean. It makes you feel like a kid again, away at summer camp and convinced that the forests are full of fairies.

I have recently come to realize that the area I consider to be Big Sur is just a small part within its borders. There is no official town, just a sparsely populated region with an intensely dramatic coastline. The north/south borders are often denoted as being between the Carmel River and San Carpoforo Creek. The east/west border being the Santa Lucia Mountains and the Pacific Ocean.

Most people see Big Sur as a view from their car window on HWY1. While there is much more to experience than this, it is indeed a magnificent drive. But, be warned. It is an intensely windy and narrow road with a lot of idiotic motorists. Most people are trying to navigate the perilous road AND take in the natural beauty at the same time. So, be alert and if you are one of these “multi-tasking” drivers…do everyone a favor and use the many pullouts on the side of the road to soak it all in. This also provides an opportunity for the “natural beauty immune” to pass you on the road and get where they are going as quickly as possible. If you are into photography, sunsets, or beautiful views, these pullouts are the place to be. I have spent several amazing sunsets, sitting on a rock, hundreds of feet over the ocean, and listening to the sounds of waves crashing into rock and seals barking on the sand.

However, I am not content to just drive through Big Sur. I like to stay over for a night or two. There is a section of the area where HWY1 leaves the ocean and winds through a coastal redwood forest. Here you have the Big Sur River as well as several camping grounds, lodges, shops, and restaurants. You can design your weekend from simple to more upscale…accommodations are up to you: sleep under the stars, cuddle under quilts in a rustic cabin, or snuggle down in 700 thread count sheets. Same goes for gastronomic fare…you can roast hot dogs over an open fire, buy a burger and a beer at a local dive, or dine by candlelight with fine wine and fresh salmon.

The activities are endless. In summer there are river sports like swimming and tubing. There
is great whale watching at certain times of the year. There is abundant hiking in the numerous state parks and wilderness areas as well as many beautiful beaches, some with fat, noisy seals. And there is always the chance to just be peaceful, relax, read a book, or take in the beautiful surroundings.

I have found several “special places” that I like to go every time that I am there. One is to The Spirit Garden, which has folk art, gifts, and beautiful gardens. The other is Nepenthe, a restaurant and bar perched on a ridge over the ocean. This incredible spot has been in operation since 1949. They have wonderful food and an outdoor fireplace. They also have a magnificent deck with a sensational view of oak groves, ocean, and coastline. I like to get a glass of wine and sit out there with my husband. The place has an energy that suffuses me with peace, lightness, and well being.

Having just moved to California, I look forward to many more trips to Big Sur. I want to continue to explore its beautiful coastline, magical spots, and beckoning wilderness.

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This entry was posted on Monday, December 10th, 2007 at 8:18 pm and is filed under Travel. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.