Mumblings and Musings…

I am not usually a big fan of “tours” while I travel…never the one to get the audio guide at a museum or have someone lead me around ancient ruins…I prefer to read the guidebook or use my imagination. However, every once in awhile I do participate in a “tour” of a popular site. Here is one that I highly recommend: Hearst Castle outside of San Simeon, California.

What an amazing estate! William Randolph Hearst inherited this immense property in the mountains overlooking the Pacific Ocean from his parents in 1919. He began construction of the house right away and this construction continued until his death in 1947. There is a massive main house along with three large guest houses, as well as pools, tennis courts, stables, etc. Not only is this the largest house I have ever seen, with incredible views of the pacific ocean, and house guests straight from the Hollywood a-list, it is also a treasure trove of paintings and sculptures to rival a museum. William Randolph Hearst loved to collect things and he built this house to show off all of his acquisitions.

My tour guide was excellent! She had been at the “castle” since the 1970’s and really knew her stuff. We were not herded around like cattle, either. She really allowed time for pictures and for taking everything in. There is A LOT to take in, so it is best done slowly.

Ok, I realize that I sound like I am doing promotion for Hearst Castle…but, I was really pleasantly surprised. As there are several different tours (including one night tour) I will definitely return…and probably drag my husband along as well!
There is lodging in nearby San Simeon (3 miles away). But, if you go just 6 more miles south on HWY 1 , you can find a MUCH better atmosphere in Cambria. What a cute little town with great shops and restaurants. But, I will talk more about Cambria in another post!

If you go, don’t miss the elephant seals congregating nearby at Piedras Blancas….truly a sight to see.

Sit back on an old creaky porch, watch the dust blowing into a pink sunset, gaze at the mountains and whittle some….then attend an art exhibit and drink sake with hip young urbanites. Think you can’t do this all in one place? Then you haven’t been to Marfa, Texas.

On first glance, Marfa is the kind of town that fills the stereotype most people hold of the west Texas desert. The land once filled with cowboys, Indians, and a harsh and lonely yet beautiful way of life. It is in the middle of nowhere…filled with scrub brush and cactus. The mountains are rugged and bruised looking in the distance. The few roads through town are long and wide. The buildings are a reminder of the ‘boom or bust’ mentality of the oil boom…old and solid of construction with many that are empty or for sale. There are beat up pick-up trucks and a sense of lonely desolation that is absolutely delicious.

What separates it from so many other remote Texas towns…charming, but, beat-up and blowing away?

Every couple of blocks you see an old building that has been stylishly re-vamped. There is a refurbished motel with a modern take on Southwest design that charges over $100 a night. Next to some of the old pick-up trucks you might see a new VW bug. If you look closely at some of the store fronts you may see hippies drinking cappuccino or an art studio. These images seem out of place. It is like SoHo shook itself off and a small fleck got caught in the breeze and floated lazily down into this back-water town. When I am there I revel in this beautifully desolate small Texas feel as well as enjoy the delightful bohemian accents .

My husband and I drove through Marfa on our way from California to Austin for the holidays. We stayed at the Thunderbird Lodge….the refurbished motel with a minimalist and modern look. There are cement floors and white walls, white bedspreads with colorful Mexican blankets, and cow hides on the floor. They offer organic mini-shampoos and vintage typewriters for rent at the front desk. There is a heated pool and desert xeroscaping. After a cheap brisket taco at a local dirty dive we had sake at the lounge across the street. We visited with an interesting bunch of other travelers and local artists, sitting outside before a roaring fire pit late into the night.

I highly recommend Marfa as a weekend destination. Nowhere else have I experienced such a unique melding of culture and isolation. It conjures the romance of the old west and allows you to revel in the funkiness and creative culture of a modern day “it” spot.

Every time I drive down HWY 1 through Big Sur, I am overcome with the urge to jump out of my car, run into the forest, and take up residence in a yurt...nestled among the redwoods and perched atop the ... [Continue reading this entry]