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The Weekenders

Tuesday, March 11th, 2008

Flowers being painted Dog relaxing in Apaneca

El Salvador is the smallest country in Central America, making most destinations a short hop from the capital. While travelling through small towns, we can’t help but be reminded of quaint New England towns that spring to life with New Yorkers and Bostonites on the weekends.

Because there are fewer ¨natural wonders¨ here than neighboring countries, local travellers vastly outnumber foreigners. Tourism is growing rapidly as Salvadoreños become more affluent reconstructing after their civil war. Travelling here, there are two distinct experiences, the weekday and the weekend. Weekdays are quiet and relaxing as people go about their business. On the weekends, towns and villages burst into life as families take day-long picnics and the Capitaleños flee the city for a two day break.

No place exemplifies this more than the Ruta de las Flores. During the week in this string of adorable towns, everyone is shut indoors by 7pm and most of the restaurants are closed for business. On the weekends, each town sets up tents in the park of their handicrafts and cuisines, and there is dancing in the streets.

Weekdays and weekends we enjoyed El Salvador for its reliable local pupusa joints and its  gimmicks to attract Capitaleños… and us.

Art and Music

Friday, March 7th, 2008

Suchitoto Church with Fireworks

Throughout Suchitoto posters hang for a gallery opening on Sunday. Adam joked they might have wine so we should go, continuing our favorite Pittsburgh habit. I laughed. But lo and behold, before the mid-day sun was beating its hardest, we were sipping iced sangria while perusing paintings of the female body by a popular Salvadoran artist. In this town with two art museums and numerous galleries we even expect this happens regularly. On the contrary, it’s not often that an orchestra plays Tchaikovsky then parades through town with fireworks on every corner. We just happened to be lucky in timing our visit.

Sitting in the central park in the cool evening surrounded by children playing while their parents chat, the city is transformed from a sweltering afternoon ghost town. The next morning will inevitably start off slowly with a stroll down cobblestone streets past whitewashed buildings to our favorite panaderia for a pastry and coffee. We understand that 8am is too early in this laid-back town for all the baking to be finished, so there is no hurry. That’s one of the many reasons we love Suchitoto.

Pupusa Hour

Wednesday, February 27th, 2008
La Palma Mural Pupusa maker As our bus approached a police checkpoint near the El Salvador border, the bus conductor informed everyone, they ... [Continue reading this entry]