Nick & Jenni’s Wanderings

So on 4th December we headed into the wilderness for 8-10 days.  We weren’t sure how long the track would take as too much rain can hold you up.

The Footprint guide descibes it as:

….”a track for real trampers, the sort with tree trunk legs, well worn boots and copious facial hair” – nobody told me I have facial hair – damn you!

….”Stunning glacial valley with the possibility of complete immersion in icy water……thoroughly recommended…..true wilderness…..only to be attempted in summer….bad flooding all year round. Always consult DOC…..fill in intention sheet…..locator beacons also recommended”  

No locator beacon – but a mountain radio instead & the intention sheet was logged with DOC before we headed into the wilderness.

The first day we caught the bus from Te Anau to Clifden, where we contected with Lake Hauroko tours & another bus/4-wheel drive down to Lake Hauroko – the deepest lake in NZ.  It was surprisingly long way to the boat, but we eventually set out at around 10.30 ish.  The boat didn’t look like it had much power behind it, but once it got going it flew – but it still took us about an hour to get to the track head.  In that time it started to rain…great!  The rain wasn’t too bad though – more like a bit of drizzle that hung around for most of the day.

Day 1: Lake Hauroko Hut to Halfway Hut

We set out towards Halfway Hut at around 11.30am, full of sprit – although I was slightly anxious – as we set off into the mossy forest we were aware that the next boat from Hauroko wasn’t until Thursday (it was Monday at this point) or we had to walk to Lake Manapouri – at least 6 days away…

The path was generally flat to begin with, crossing through mud and slippery underfoot.  I slipped into the mud, bending one of my poles – not such a great start – but the landing was soft! 

We hit our first river crossing and in deciding the route across I decided to take a little rest on a rock (well my feet slipped and I landed on my arse!) Moral to that story – don’t even think about boulder hoping & trying to keep your feet dry – just wade through! At that point I could still see the funny side.  The first of our 21 three wire walkwires came later in the day!

The track then climbed upwards – over slippery tree roots and rocks in the light drizzle.  It was damn hard work & I wasn’t particularly enjoying it.  I found that I didn’t have time to take in the scenery as I was too busy concentrating on my feet & not falling over.  The path then dropped slightly I really started to not enjoy myself. Then I fell off a rock on a small descent. 

Splat.

Banged shin and a face full of mud. I was lucky that the root that caught my shin wasn’t around my face as it would have been very messy.  Heavy pack and the feeling of drowning in mud was bad enough. Nick had to get the pack off me so I could get up. 

I didn’t want to carry on, but we were closer to Halfway Hut than Lake Hauroko Hut so on we went (and there wasn’t a boat for another couple of days!)

So on we soldiered.  Crossing more mud – rather than skirt around it I decided to go straight – up to my knees and slowly sinking and unable to move my feet! Nick to the rescue again (but not before capturing the moment on camera!)

About 7 hours after being dropped off at the track sight we got to the hut – smoke coming out of the chimney was a very welcome sight.

There were 4 girls in the hut (along with our two Canadian boat mates) – turned out Nick had emailed one of them a couple of months ago through a contact at work – small world moment!

Day 2: Halfway Hut to Lake Roe Hut

Plucked up the courage to head to Lake Roe (I wasn’t keen at first, but I wanted to get above the tree line and the views around Lake Roe where supposed to be one of the highlights of the walk). So off we set.

Slippy tree roots, mossy rocks, mud and bog.  We eventually got through the tree line but the mud/bog didn’t stop – although we were getting better at going through the mud rather than skirt round the edges – it just adds time to the walk. 6 hours or so later, we stummbled into the hut and a lovely warm fire.

We set up the mountain radio here and listened in to the weather and general banter looking out over the mountains – a beautiful spot.  We then had a bit of a surreal moment as we listened to the mountain radio man pass on a message to FK91 radio – birth of first son all well. Reply – “OK roger that” – I hope he had a damn good reason to be in the bush and was a bit more upbeat after the radio broadcast!

Day 3: Lake Roe Hut to Loch Maree Hut

We decided to go for it rather than turn back so we headed out over the mountain huts towards Loch Maree.  The walk across the tops was beautiful  – rolling mossy, boggy tufts of grass – at the top of a mountain! – surrounded by hills.  The first view of Dusky Sound was stunning and it was good to see what we were aiming for at last!

Then came the 800m of descent. Steep descent, backwards clambering down tree roots (which had turned from slippery fiend on the first day to wonderful friend by then helping you down the mountain – like a ladder) and sometimes even tree hugging.  I “got the fear” and found it difficult on a bit with chain – but made it down eventually.

The descent was tough and it took us 9 hours to get to the hut (as oppsed to the 5 as signposted at Lake Roe). But we made it. 

We also found 2 DOC workers in the hut – there was 8 of them altogether, working on the track & the huts.  Friendly guys – although the rifles were a bit of shock – they were going deer hunting in the evenings…one guy was succesful on the first night & bought back 2 strapped to his back.

Day 4: Loch Maree Hut to Supper Cove Hut

So we decided to do the full track and head out to Supper Cove.  The weather had been kind and not rained on us yet so we didn’t think we’d have to swim the backwaters as can sometimes happen.

The track was hard at first – clambering over wind falls, slippery tree roots and rocks.  Didn’t help that I lost the path at one point and really didn’t want to be out on the track – but the DOC guy had given us some venison to take down to the guys working at Supper Cove (and our Canadian hut mates were also expecting some) so we had to carry on.

In 1903 the government sent 50 unemployeed miners to build a track from Supper Cove inland and we were lucky that it stlil exists in some shape – so for parts it was a nice flat walk (until you hit the mud/bogs again, which just slows you down).

We bumped into the DOC guys working on the track who told us about the low tide route across to the hut – we would have to hang around for an hour, but it would save us time in the long run.

So hang around we did – for about 1 1/2 hours – then they appeared.  We then spent about 30-45mins wading through sea water bettern knees and thighs trying to find the shallow crossing to the hut – the frustrating thing was that it was only 20m away but whenever you tried to get there the channel was too deep.  In the end we took off our pack and held them above our heads – the water came to about chest height and we still had to scramble across very slippery rocks to get to the hut – but it saved 2 hours of tree root scrambling (which isn’t my favourite sport!)

The fresh venision went down well for tea though – and the fire was on when we arrived so all wasn’t too bad.

Day 5 – Supper Cove Hut

We decided to have a rest day at Supper Cove – overlooking Dusky Sound. We were tired and the thought of 8 hours back to Loch Maree was unappealing.

So we tried our hand at fishing for blue cod – no luck – just lots of sandfly bites.  Nick managed to catch 2 spotties which we had for lunch – very nice too – the DOC guys thought it amusing that we ate them though – they usually use them for bate!

Day 6: Supper Cove Hut to Loch Maree Hut

Despite it being low tide when we set out, we ended up having to swim – with packs on – a small channel to get across to the path.  Apparently it makes a good photo – but Nick was too busy laughing at me and my squeeks as the water got higher and he was also up to his tighs in water still to be able to get the camera out!

We then retraced our steps back to Loch Maree – following the advice of not to tiptoe around the bogs – but to stick close to the track markers and go for it – only knee deep mud…there are rumours that it can be neck deep – if not higher at times.

The track back wasn’t as flat as we remembered coming back, and despite all the track clearance the DOC guys had put in, it was damn hard work.

Day 7: Loch Maree Hut to Kintail Hut

More scrambling up and over tree falls (the track clearance hadn’t made it that far yet) and we didn’t seem to be getting anywhere fast, but we slipped and slid over the tree roots and clambered over rock – and finally the track eased off (for a while) and we had a lovely lunch by the river in the sun.

Unfortunately we weren’t as far along the track as we had thought for lunch and so the walk to Kintail hut took longer than expected – the halfway walkwire took a good hour to turn up after lunch (grrrrr).

We then had a large rock slip to clamber over, before a swampy section along Gair Loch, just before the hut.  We had a quick break – and spotted a pair of blue duck – they are quite rare & so we were so lucky at just that momtent.

Day 8: Kintail Hut to Upper Spey Hut

The usual mud, tree root, bog, rock walk for a bit and then a steep climb upwards – using the tree roots as a ladder again – so useful.

After about 3 hours of steep climb we came out of the tree line and into tussocky bog over centre pass – we had wonderful views out over Gair Loch and Tripod Hill and also towards where we were headed. All too soon we were back in amongst the trees and headed down hill – not the 800m as before but it still went on for long enough.  The hut was a welcome sight – and the first night we spent alone – it was strange – didn’t sleep as well – too many sounds!

Day 9: Upper Spey Hut to West Arm & Civilisation

Our final day – we set off early as we didn’t want to miss the boat across Lake Manpouri.  We set out in rain – the first real rain since the start – we had been so lucky with the weather.

Another trudge up and over tree roots, slippery rocks, mud and bog with 4 walkwires thrown in to remind us that there were a lot of rivers about.

It felt like the trackhead and road to West Arm would never appear, but after 5 hours there it was – and I danced! It was then a long 45 minute stomp down to West Arm.  We got there about 1.30pm ish.

The 2.45pm ferry didn’t exist, but there was one at 3.30pm and so we killed a couple of hours in West Arm hut trying to dry off, dreaming about dry clothes, showers and what we’d eat that evening (pizza in the end!).

So that was Dusky Track. Damn hard work – you had to concentrate on every step (we reackon we took about 250,000 over the 9 days and 84km) – up and over slippery tree roots, slippery mossy rocks, through mud, bog and rivers, across three wire walkwires to the end all for two good views – the rest was spent in the forest.

I made it, with a lot of help, and my limits were certainly tested.

Would I do it again – no – but I’m glad I’ve done it and I’ve learnt that I prefer the hard slog up the mountain and then spending time high rather than in the forest.

We were so lucky with the weather, it would have been 100 times worse in the rain and the mud would have been dreadful.

Dusky track for me = mud, blood, sweat and quite a few tears.

Tags: New Zealand, Travel, Trek

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