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November 12, 2003

Take the Last Train to Chang Mai

and I'll meet you at the station.

Look “Right, left, right” and then cross the street. Though this is in direct contrast to what I have been doing for the past 22 years, failure to do so in Bangkok will get you killed! First of all everyone is driving on the wrong damn side of the road, on the wrong damn side of the car! And secondly, everyone drives like a freaking maniac! This guy I met yesterday said “they drive like they believe in reincarnation.” That must mean that the vast fleets of motorcyclists and sketchy Tuk-tuk (Tuk-tuks are 3-wheeled open taxi type contraptions of impending death) drivers are among the particularly devout.

“Helloooo… you want tuk-tuk?” After hearing and reading horror stories about the tuk-tuks and how they will drive you to a sketchy jewelry/tailor shop in a dodgy part of town I had been steadfastly avoiding them and sticking to the clean and AC’d Sky train. However, when it came time to leave Bangkok, the Sky train could only take me so far on my trip to catch the night train to Chang Mai. So I was forced into my first encounter with the Tuk-Tuks. After getting off at the National Stadium exit I flagged one down (which isn’t hard b/c they are out looking for farangs). Having read my guide book, and having talked with fellow travellers, I knew the proper way to handle the driver. Negotiate the destination and the price before you get in, b/c tuk-tuks do not run on a meter, the way a normal cab does. I asked how much the to the train station and he said “100 baht.” Naturally ;) I scoffed at the $2.50 fare, indicating that I would find another tuk-tuk. He said 40 baht. I agreed and repeated “40 baht… train station” to emphasize that I didn’t want to go anywhere else. So I threw my bag in, and climbed aboard, tearing my new funny-looking elephant pants. Dammit! (I have almost completely given up “fashionable” clothing altogether in preference of extremely lightweight and cheap Thai stuff.) Once I finally got in, the driver gunned it and I had to hold on the railings for dear life, b/c he, like every other driver in Bangkok, is insane. We weaved in and out of traffic and perilously close to other cars… for him even lane lines were just a “suggestion.” So, needless to say, when I finally got to the train station, I was quite relieved.

I got a DQ blizzard and got on my train for the long journey. The train really wasn’t all that exciting. I didn’t really sleep as much as I hoped. My sleeping bunk was too short… typical… so I had to sleep all crooked. Also the Thai train system… not exactly the ideal for a “smooth ride”… but I still managed to make it to Chang Mai. From the train station I took another tuk-tuk to the Tah Pae gate and then walked along Moon Muang road just inside the old city walls until I decided to have a second lunch at Lanna Café. From there I wandered over to Soi 9 and got a room at the Libra Guest House where I am right now. I got a single room with a queen sized bed and a shower for $5. These folks also reportedly have very treks, that I will prolly be availing myself of later on this week. But for right now I am just relaxing and trying to remember to take my shoes off before going in anywhere.

So that’s pretty much it for now. Nothing really exciting. I am pretty tired from the train ride and not really sleeping well the night before either, but I think I am going to head out to the Night market later this evening. I really want to find banana pancakes!

Posted by Helga on November 12, 2003 02:16 AM
Category: Bangkok
Comments

WE WANT MORE PICTURES!!!!!!!! ESP OF THE HOT ELEPHANT PANTS!!!

Posted by: hermanita diabla on November 12, 2003 03:26 AM

Can you send me a picture of a tuk tuk? I want to propose it for the Newport project.

Posted by: Adam Weiser on November 13, 2003 04:51 PM
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