The Halftime Report

This is the second part of my attempt to quickly catch up on what we did in the last 2 months.  Just across the border in Italy there is a region called Süd Tirol (South Tyrol).  It used to be part of Austria and they still speak a lot of German there.  However, the big attraction is the mountains,  an extension of the Alps called the Dolomites.

The rock formations are very unique and, for me, rival Yosemite or the Torres del Pine.  It’s become one of our new favorite spots, especially because it’s so accessible, just a 2 hour drive from home.

Last year we visited the area for a couple of quick hikes and couldn’t wait to get back there this year to explore the region more.  On my last trip to London I managed to find an English version of a book called “Short Walks in the Dolomites”.  Equipped with this, a map, and our backpacks we took off into the mountains.  There might be something missing in the translation because 9 hours and 1300m of elevation later we finally made it back to the start.  I would hate to see one of the “long” walks.

The hike may have taken all day, but I can’t think of a better way to spend the time.  If the beautiful views weren’t enough, the hardy food at the huts along the way might alone be worth it.

Here’s the first of the 3 huts we stopped at:

And another view along the way:

We’ve been enjoying the summer and I’m once again behind on blogging.  Eric spent a month in Korea on a trip for work, but as soon as he got back we hit the road and spent a long weekend in Tuscany.  The region had everything we’ve heard about – lovely villas, great food and wine, and lots of sunshine.  It also has some seriously steep hills which I didn’t expect.  When we were in the Piedmont region a few years ago, everyone told us it was “just like Tuscany.”  Based on the small rolling hills there, we planned a bike ride through the countryside in Tuscany. It turned out to be a bit more like a stage of the Giro than the casual pedal through the vineyards that I had imagined. Once again I was reminded about why we travel.  You can read and hear about a place, but it’s never quite the same as experiencing it first hand.

After the sufferfest on the bike, as least I could comfort myself with some amazing Chianti Reserva and Steak Florentine – two things that also just have to be tasted to be understood.

One the way home, we decided to take a detour to visit one of the smallest countries in Europe, San Marino.  It turned out that there is no direct highway to get there from where we were staying, so we ended up spending hours on tiny winding roads crossing over the middle of Italy.  This drive falls into the category of things that might be better not experienced in person.  San Marino was worth the drive, however.  It’s not much more than some castle towers and a small town perched on the top of a peak, but it’s dramatic and the views are great.  Plus we got to add another country to our “been there” list.

The beautiful, but tiny San Marino:

A group of people we know from the US and UK were on a holiday in the Dolomites in Italy last month.  Since it’s only a 3 hour drive from where we live, they invited us to meet them there go hiking.  It’s a really beautiful area and one that I’m sure we’ll visit again.

The most surprising thing about the trip was discovering the area called Südtirol (South Tirol).  It used to belong to Austria, but as a result of WWI and WWII eventually became a permanent part of Italy. While it might officially be in Italy now, the population has chosen to ignore the fact.  The homes are the same style of “Heidi houses” that you see everywhere in Austria, and the road signs are  in both German, listed first, and then Italian.  Most people we met were tri-lingual (along with English), but speak German to each other, and the food was wursts and schnitzels, with a little pasta.  Not quite what you imagine when you think about spending a weekend in Italy.  I never would have even known that we left Austria, except for all the “I” license plates.

The owner of the B&B where we stayed gave me a history lesson, as well as some strong opinions on the regional government, languages, and the possibility that they would someday vote to re-join Austria.  It’s a very interesting piece of history that was completely new to me.  You never know what you’ll find when you cross a border.

Here’s a view from the Dolomites in the “Italian” Alps:

Continuing my posts to catch up about the places we visited last month, I have to mention Italy as well.  We took a weekend with my parents to visit Venice and Verona.

Venice was everything I expected and more.  For some reason we all thought it would be a lot smaller and smellier.  It’s actually pretty big (you can’t begin to see it all in one day) and the canals seemed relatively fresh and not stagnant at all.  I guess that is why I travel.  There are some things you just have to experience first hand.

From Venice we headed to Verona, which was another good surprise.  We picked it somewhat randomly because it seemed like the right distance from both Venice and Villach for a good overnight trip.  The guidebook mentioned a coliseum, but I had no idea that it would be so big and in such great shape.  Although it was built in the Roman era, they still hold concerts here.  I can’t wait to go back and attend one.

Here are a few views from Italy:

Now that we have a car, it’s time to explore the area beyond our little town.  After talking to both expats and locals, we made a long list of potential things to do here in the summer.  Item #23 is the Giro d’Italia (kind of like Italy’s version of the Tour de France).  We went to a time trial stage two years ago, but have always really wanted to see a mountain stage.  The race organizers obliged us and picked a route this year that actually went through Austria and finished in the Alps in Italy just an hour south of our place.

The stage ended on the Monte Zoncolan, which is somewhat famous in the cycling world for being a hellish climb of 10km with an average grade of about 12%.  However, some spots are as steep as 22%.    It seemed like the perfect place to watch the pros suffer up the switchbacks.   The one important thing that I forgot was that in order to see them on the mountain top finish you have to actually get there, which in this case meant walking up.

Needless to say the hike was brutal and it gave me even more respect for the cyclists.  I still can’t believe how fast they are able to push up that mountain. While the race is exciting, half the fun is watching the other spectators.  They arrive long before (sometimes days) the race starts and camp out, alternately partying and sleeping.  When the racers come by they shout at them, push them up hill, or run along side “encouraging” them. Some riders shouted back,but most just laughed and kept pedaling.  It’s amazing that were no accidents caused by the rabid fans. In the end though, they are true fans – they know all the riders names and shout out in different languages (Vai, Venga, Allez, Go!).  They boo the ones who are suspected of doping, and cheer their favorites.  It’s a unique sport and I think we’re already scoping a stage of Le Tour to attend.

Here I am with the most famous of the fans:

Here’s Alberto in the pink: