"If you see a tiger, don't run,stare him in eyes; if you see wild elephant, run-they have bad short memory-will forget you easily, after distance; if you see rhino, hide behind tree; if you see a bear, get in group and shout real loud-scare them away!' Imagine being told this as you take your first jungle walk. I thought that our guide was kidding but from the look on his face this info was it be taken seriously. It was some anxious steps that we entered into the world of the Royal Chitawan Park. Through thick undergrowth, forest and dense high grasses we tentively made we made our way through the jungle. Every sound, every loud noise or sudden movement was greeted with a mixture of excitement and fear. We'd come to see the wildlife but the thoughts of encountering a wild animal on foot really made us nervous. The crocodiles on the river bank had almost been enough for me. We passed a little too close to them, in our dug-out canoe, on the way to the park. But on the 2 hour jungle walk all we saw were monkeys, wild chickens and many birds. We were more relieved than disappointed not to see the man eaters and man crushers!

Later on in the day,as we took an elephant safari through the park, we got the chance of seeing a rhino up close. 3 of them in fact, male, female and baby rhino. It was fantastic to see them in their natural habitat. And a lot safer from the lofty heights of an elephants back. These huge animals carried us very close to where they were feeding in the thick undergowth. The rhinos are very use to them so they didn't get excited by our presence. They just went about their business whilst we clicked off a dozen shots. It was quite funny to see all the elephant backed tourist all clambering over each other to get the best view. On elephant back 2 people sit facing forward and 2 facing backward. So, it's luck whether or not you are pointed in the right direction. Luck was with us.

The elephant breeding centre was another highlight of this safari. This is where one can get to play with the baby elephants. They are very curious and will actually run up to the wire fence, were vistors can pet them and give them some food. Isabelle was absolutely thrilled to get to see them and have them eating peanuts from her hand. Though I think she was surprised to find that their mouths were full of muck!

Unfortunately, our package turned out to we a sort of holiday from hell. We had booked it with a family run hotel in Pokhara and believed that we were getting a great deal. The travel agent there had promised us a warm hearty welcome, the best of hospitality, fine food, great rooms and a great safari. But it couldn't have been further from the truth. The place was a dump-full of rats and mosquitos, the food was either crap or non existent and our guide ignored us and even brough us to the elephant safari in the dark!!! We walked out at 9 pm on the first day and found a great place down the road. The manager there was amazing. He had dinner prepared for us after the kitchen was closed and the next day arranged to have the package switched to his place at no extra cost. He even provided his own guides for the jungle walk and elephant safari. We couldn't have imagined doing the trek with an inexperienced con artist ' if you see a tiger you won't see me..........'

Were back in Kathmandu at the moment, preparing for the next leg of our trip. We take the 8.30 flight to Bangkok tomorrow morning. We'll probably head to a beach for a week or so before we sort out what the plan is. It will be great to be near the sea again.

P.s. having problems with uploading photos at present. Will post some later on, when the connection is better.