We're back a couple of days from the Everest Base Camp trek, so we've had time to sooth our aching muscles, relax and re-adjust to breathing normally. I don't think that I've ever been so out of breath or have had to move so slowly before. From the time we landed in Lukla, until we reboarded the plane again, we've endured some of the most physically demanding 10 days in our lives. It's like, unbeknown to ourselves, we had been enrolled in an army camp, or ten episodes of the Crypton Factor. Each day we were up at the crack of dawn, 6.15 am, had some porridge, and then quickly packed up and under the directions of our guide, we began our 5hr march, mostly uphill, to the next town. On the first day,I thought that we were doing ok- keeping up a reasonable pace like, until a group of grannys passed us by, like we weren't even moving! It was incredible, the speed at which they moved and they were even gossiping as they passed by.
You wouldn't want to have a big ego out here, especially if you haven't climbed in high altitude before. It could easily take a bruising.

Altitude effects people in so many different ways. It's like a lotto and you don't know the results until you put yourself to the test. From the second day onwards, Isabelle suffered from severe headaches and shortness of breath. We really had to take it slow, taking rest days every 1000m or so. I on the other hand showed no signs of sickness in the thinning air. Apart from feeling a little bit light-headed and giddy, the climb did nothing but make me sweat a lot and my legs sore. Well, that is until we got to around 4850m. On the very steep climb to Lobuje, I started to feel a weird sensation in my stomach, almost like a pulse and my legs began to wobble. As we went high and higher it became so strong that I started to feel dizzy,sleepy and almost totally drained of energy. But, almost nearing the top, I ignored the warning signs and soldiered on. Bad move. Just 50m from the ridge, I collapsed over on my side and couldn't go on. The only thing to do was to go back down. At Pheriche, I got myself checked out at the Himalyan Rescue Hospital. They couldn't find anything wrong. No sign of altitude sickness. But, they suggested that I didn't go any higher, in case I had a virus. So close, but alas we decided to head their advice and return to Lukla and Kathmandu.

Initially, I was disappointed not to make it to Base camp and Kala Pattar Pass. Having come so far and getting so close to the top, it wasn't the easy to turn around and call it a day. But, it was the right decision. Having spoken to the doc and some other climbers, I learned about the dangers of ignoring the warning signs at high altitude. Even though I didn't have the classic sympthoms of AS, I could still be putting myself in danger by climbing any further. Besides, we had seen the most awe inspiring landscape in the 10 days that we spent here. It really was amazingly beautiful to be up in the cloud, surrounded by dozens of snow capped peaks. At times it felt like we were on the moon. At the higher altitudes, the ground became increasing barren, desert like, til eventually there was nothing but brown soil, sand (!!!!) and bare rock. And of course there was the views of Sagarmatha (Everest) itself. The first time that I saw it sent chivers down my spine. To be actually standing there, looking at it, felt like I was in a dream. Just breathtakingly, awe-inspiringly, magnificiently beautiful. Will definitely do this again!

Isa and guide on the trek
old stupa with prayer flags
Yak Yak Yak!