Jaisalmer is an amazing city. Set in the very west of India, in the middle of the desert,it's our first stop and introduction to the magical world of Rajsthan. And we love it! It's like we've been transported back in time. Walking around the old fort and rambling medival streets, one can really get the feel for what it must have been like, to live here, in the time of the maharajas. The palaces, temples, shops, restaurants and roads are all built out of the locally mined yellow sandstone. This is what gives the city it's golden appearance. Everywhere we look we see doors, windows and balconies with incredible, fine, decorative carvings, all cast in this gorgeous yellow ocre. It's really a site to behold. Even the the most humble of dwellings have intricate artwork the makes the decerning photographer stop to take a shot or too. We've been staying in a small room in part of the fort, with a local Brahmin family. They're extremely friendly, and made us feel very much at home. The owner, a funny man who likes to walk around gorrilla style (barechested), organised a camel safari for us. This is main reason that we came here.

The camel safari has to be the highlight of the trip so far. Over two days and one night we travelled with our guide Moussa, through the desert plains of Jaisalmer. Like most people, I was expecting to see mostly sand and dunes. But what we saw and travelled through was like a mixture of scrub, rock, green pastures and of course sand. We weren't disappointed with not having the complete Laurence of Arabia experience. We stopped in many idyllic locations to have a break and a spot of lunch, cooked up by Moussa. It really was a pleasure to watch this man in his native desertland, tend to his duties and care for his animals.

Camels have to be one of the funniest, smelliest, most unpredictable, mixed up animals that I have ever come across. They really are a marvel to ride and to be around. They are graceful, majestic even proud whilst at the same time being liable to suddenly burp and fart in the most gregarious manner or start pushing each other out of the way! If they were human it would be like mixing up Prince Charles with Barney from the Simpsons! However, camel riding is not very easy by any means. We were again reminded how unflexible we are as our inner thighs took quite a punishment. Though Moussa made sure that we didn't over tax ourselves and have an injury problem in the first few hours.

That night we camped, rough style, en plein air. in the middle of the sand dunes. Little did we know that we weren't the only ones in this corner of the desert. As we bedded down under the most glorious starry sky we noticed a few little friends had arrrived in our camp. Dung beetles!!! We hadn't been warned. Equipped with just a blanket and two silk mummies, we tried to relax as they began to explore the area. But, it wasn't easy. Moussa assured us that they didn't bite but when they run all over you, en masse, it doesn't matter what anyone says, your imagination takes over. It was like Fear Factor on Sky One. Lying down with your eyes and mouth squezzed shut ,with dozens of big black insects running all over you. So much for admiring the starry night sky! With both of us jumping up every few minutes, we thought that we wouldn't get any sleep. But, the full moon came out and the beetles scurried off to find some cover.

Perhaps, the highlight of the safari, came close to the end. After lunch at an oasis, Moussa asked us would we like some camel chai. Of course we couldn't say no, so up he popped and promptly milked the camel in front of us and boiled up the brew. It was really sweet and surprisingly creamy. We both finished our cups and were going to ask for more except that he told us that camel milk has been known to cause the trots for westermers like us. Thankfully we had none.

camel chewing
on the road
Gerry and camel
Isa on fort wall