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March 22, 2005

Awestruck

Fuck, it's hot. I'm sweatin' like a whore in church. Again.

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The Italian-American Connection: Stefano and me with our working-girl groupies.

It's been a jam-packed last couple of days here in Phnom Penh. Two nights ago, the boys and I headed to a bar called Sharky's, having, at the time, no idea that it was a notorious hangout for prostitutes. Oh well, it was fun and I got to play several games of pool for free. I met a couple of guys from San Diego that night who were very cool. Maybe we'll get together back in the States...I do love San Diego. Oh, and in case you're wondering, I left the bar alone.

Yesterday began with Ben and I hiring motorcycle drivers to taxi us around the city. Our purpose that day was to visit four destiniations: the shooting range, the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek, S-21 Genocide Museum, and the Russian Market.

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Westside, niggaz, we keepin' it live! Poon-Tang Clan ain't nuttin' to fuck wit'! This is Buna, my motorcycle driver and hip-hop fanatic.

The shooting range offered a wide array of weapons to fire, but after discovering the ridiculously high prices (for example, $30 to fire 30 rounds through an AK-47 at a piece of paper), I quickly declined and let Bennie "have a nutt." It was still fun to watch. Ben ended up firing the AK, a Russian 9mm pistol, and a light machine gun that resembled our M60.

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Instruments of death, heh. We sure do enjoy pretending to kill people though, don't we?

Our next stop was the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek. This was definitely one of the places I had to see while here in Cambodia. Having enrolled in a course on SE Asian history whilst at the University of Washington, I had learned of some of the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge during the 1970's, but seeing it in the raw was definitely something else. Amidst the large pockets in the earth that were once mass graves stands a huge monument housing the skulls of the nearly 9,000 victims. Never have I seen anything like it! Definitely one of the saddest things I have ever laid eyes upon...that is until we arrived at S-21.

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Read it and weep.

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Each pit was once a mass grave for men, women, and children who met death in utter misery.

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The sign reads: "Chamori tree against which executioners beat children."

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One of several levels at the monument.

Toul Sleng Genocide Museum, better known as S-21, was a high school until the Khmer Rouge seized it in 1975. Inmates of all ages were interrogated and BRUTALLY tortured by these demonic "men" in order to obtain confessions of plotting to thwart the revolution alongside the Americans or Vietnamese. After their forced confessions, the inmates were taken to the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek where they were repeatedly bludgeoned before having their throats cut. They were then piled into mass graves. Of the over 17,000 people processed at S-21, only 7 survived. One of these survivors, Vann Nath, depicts some of the disgusting torture methods in his paintings, which are on display. The Khmer Rouge also kept extensive photographs of the victims who came through S-21 and most of these are on display. It's so sad to see their faces. Some of the rooms I entered really gave me the chills as I imagined what these men, women, and children had to suffer through a mere 30 years ago. Be warned, some of the pictures I have included today are very graphic and disturbing, but it is necessary that we view them and educate ourselves on these dark years of the world's history, so that hopefully we can push to prevent this kind of shit from ever happening again. It's sad; sometimes I wonder if, in 30 years, I'll be wandering through a similar monument in Central Africa (no economic interests...you won't see it on the American news channels) feeling the same emotions and writing the same old song. Why did God foresake these people?

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The rules of interrogation.

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The barbed wire was installed to prevent desperate prisoners from committing suicide.

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One of the interrogation rooms. Prisoners were often viciously interrogated three times daily for hours per session.

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Devices of torture. Note the paintings in the background that depict the sickening manner in which these devices were used.

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A common method of torture at S-21. After the fingernails of the victim were ripped out, alcohol was poured over the wounds.

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Some were administered electric shocks through the nipples in order to extract confessions.

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A small sample of the over 17,000 victims.

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They never even made it to Choeung Ek.

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Miserable death.

I haven't got much to write on the Russian Market. Typical SE Asian big city market, selling a bunch of crap you don't need. There was some delicious cuisine though, and I was able to stuff myself full of a sort of shrimp omelette for only $0.50.

Today, I made my way to the Cambodian National Museum and also to the the imacculate Royal Palace. The museum displayed a large collection of artifacts dating back thousands of years. It was a terrific display and really whet my appetite for Angkor Wat. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed inside the building, but I was feeling a little defiant today.

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The National Museum.

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Inside the museum...this piece originally came from Angkor Wat.

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A fan.

The Royal Palace was stunning! The palace grounds are huge and house several different buildings, all of which are very beautiful. Of course, most visitors come to see the Silver Pagoda, which displays some of the most valuable artifacts in Cambodia. The building gets its name from the over 5,000 tiles that cover its floor (only small sections are on display; they obviously don't want filthy tourists marring the tiles and cover the floor with carpets). Besides the Emerald Buddha, there is a life-size gold Buddha which is adorned with over 2,000 diamonds. It's amazing to actually see this in real life.

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The view upon entrance.

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Beautiful buildings.

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The Pavillion de Napoleon.

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A scale model of Angkor Wat on display on the palace grounds.

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One of countless Buddha statues. This, however, was the only one I found surrounded by my favorite family of flowers.

I've got to mention a couple thangs right quick. If you haven't listened to Green Day's new album, "American Idiot," do so with the quickness. I didn't realize how good it is. Buy it, borrow it, or head to your local bar, insert a dollar, and play tracks 2, 3, and 4. If the establishment doesn't have this album on their jukebox, then they don't deserve your business. For those wanting to know more about the origins of the universe seen through one of the most brilliant scientific minds in history, start readin A Brief History of Time by Stephen Hawking. It's easy to see why this guy is on a different level mentally once you start reading.

Kick ass...

"We are just an advanced breed of monkeys on a minor planet of a very average star. But we can understand the Universe. That makes us something very special."
Stephen Hawking

Posted by Gary on March 22, 2005 02:54 AM
Category: Cambodia
Comments

Dude, I was showing my computer instructor your site and he started saying "I've been there, I've been there too." He went on the same trip you did, except he went to Amserdam instead of India. I mean he said he reconized lots of your pics. I thought that was pretty cool.

You need to bring home a monkey. Get a little one you can train to bring you stuff, like the phone and shit like that, lol.

Peace!

Posted by: Curtis on March 23, 2005 07:34 PM

Hey there, did you feel that last earthquake that is on t.v.? Hope your o.k. Loo Wit has been giving off lots of earthquakes latley also. Well I am gonna go. Hey I almost forgot, make sure to bring home a monkey!

Posted by: Curtis on March 28, 2005 06:09 PM

Yetter you nutjob! This is Lane from UW, you know with the really short hair, used to yell a lot? Anyway... so I'm checking out the Crossfit site and I see "Gary Yetter - Crossfit Laos." NO WAY! Couldn't believe it was you. I should have known you'd be into their style. I wish I'd known you were headed down there, I've still got business cards from all the restaurants I went to. Did you do the Mortar Round at Sharkey's? I did three and got the shirt, my buddy did three and got stitches 'cause he passed out and banged his melon on a chair. If you're going to be in Phnom Penh for a while, make sure you hit the Irish bar over near the Embassy. NGO land had so many great restaurants that I can't keep track of them all. I know there was a Nepalese joint owned by a former Ghurka and a Moraccan place and a Greek place and this little French place that made thick peasant food that was just awsome.... oh man, I'm slobbering on the keyboard. Good times. To bad you're not hitting Vietnam, that's were I spent most of my time and if anybody I know is still around, that's where they'd be.
Have an Angkor Beer for me.

Cheers,

Derek

Posted by: Derek Lane on March 28, 2005 07:20 PM

Dude, I forgot to ask, are those real-life prostatutes in that pic on the top of the page?

Posted by: Curtis on March 28, 2005 10:13 PM
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