BootsnAll Travel Network



Happy New Year from Vic Falls

nam-to-vic-falls-028.jpgnam-to-vic-falls-042.jpgnam-to-vic-falls-033.jpgnam-to-vic-falls-085.jpg

Happy New Year!

Fred and I left Etosha National Park and drove 6.5 hours north-east to Rundu, Namibia. The scenery was fantastic as we passed small farming villages, oxen pulling plows, and women and children gathered around pumps awaiting their turn to fill their container with water (I should have brought some of your pumps, Dan 🙂

In the town of Rundu, we settled on a Swiss-operated lodge ($51 US) on the beach overlooking the Okanvango River since N’Kwanzi was booked full. I was a little surprised when the manager gave us earplugs for the load noise which she advised would be coming from the big tent at the river only metres away (which it did until 4 a.m). There was also a written notice advising guests to stay on the cleared path, to not swim in the river, and to keep away from the long grass – all because of crocodiles and snakes.

After unloading our luggage into the room, we drove around looking for a wi-fi hot spot so I could upload my blogs. After about 6 stops (indicating either “closed”, “relocating” or “on holidays”) we finally found a friendly business that would allow me to plug the internet cable into their computer cable. The owner asked about our travels and indicated that he was interested in starting a tourist business to Angola. I asked him whether we could cross over to Angola and he just smiled and laughed. So much for the idea of seeing Angola – this time.

We ended up speaking at breakfast with a couple from Windhoek, Namibia who were travelling to Vic Falls that day. We decided to change our plans and drive first to Vic Falls, Zambia, and then come back through Botswana.

What we anticipated would take us 6 hours ended up being a long, 10 hour drive. We went through at least 3 Namibian police checkpoints (at least they were courteous and polite) as well as a Disease Control point where we had to exit our vehicle and step onto a squishy platform to disinfect our shoes while an official sprayed the lower perimeter of our vehicle.

Once at the border with Zambia, it was another test of patience. What a procedure – first, we had to stand in line and pay $50 US each for a Visa. Next, we had to get stamped through customs. Then, we had to pay $30 US for Third Party Car Insurance and sign more paperwork. Fourth, we had to pay $20 for Vehicle Emissions, fifth – $15 US for Road Services, and finally, $15 for Council money. All this required time, paperwork, and money (of course) as well as dealing with one official to the next. We seemed to have all our paperwork in order since the couple we had breakfast with had left an hour before us and were still doing the necessary paperwork when we pulled away, 50 minutes later.

We noticed a considerable difference travelling through Zambia as opposed to Namibia and South Africa. It definitely appeared poorer and there were very few vehicles on the roadway, however, a lot of female pedestrians were walking along the road, balancing jars, sticks, or laundry on their heads. Men or boys were walking roadside, directing their small herd of cattle or goats.

Because of the political situation in Zimbabwe, we decided to see the falls from the Zambian side. We arrived in Livingstone, Zambia at dark with no prebooked accommodations. Using our guide book, we initially tried Jolly Boys Backpackers with no luck (booked up). They called Fawlty Towers for us and luckily they had a room left. I think this was our most bare-bones accommodation yet on this trip (twin beds, shared washrooms, no fan/air con, stifling hot, $30/night). We lasted through the night then switched to Nygone ($70 with private bath, air con, tv, etc).

We drove to Victoria Falls, one of the “Seven Natural Wonders of the World” and admired her for a couple of hours. Very spectacular and the spray was much appreciated in the 35 degree humid temperatures. We walked around the market area and were bombarded with Zambians trying to sell us everything from carvings to beaded necklaces. I think there must be a water shortage on the Zambian side, too, since I don’t think those fellows have showered in a month!

After having lunch at an “authentic” (but touristy) African restaurant, Fred went for a nap while I enjoyed a 2 hour New Year’s Day ride through a National Park, alongside the Zambezi River, and over the manicured lawns of the “Royal Livingstone”. There was just one couple riding with me (a white couple from Botswana), who I found very interesting and they shared a lot about their culture with me. I rode a tall, sorrel thoroughbred cross who fortunately, didn’t like the thorn bushes either and saved my legs from getting totally ripped up in the thorns (I decided to ride last minute so didn’t have the time to change).

January 2 we left Zambia enroute to what the couple from Botswana told us was the worst border crossing in all of Africa – Kazungula (Zambia) to Kasane (Botswana). The crossing is made worse because it has to be done by ferry. Luckily, our timing was perfect and after more paperwork, we departed on the 10:30 a.m. ferry. At this location, 4 countries meet – Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia, and Botswana. Finally, we were in Botswana.

Until next time,

Lisa n Fred



Tags: , , , ,

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *