A Jolly Good Trip

Well, after all the researching and reading we’ve been doing, we have our white, Nissan car (with air-con, but stickshift), and we’re beginning our southern Africa adventure tomorrow. The plan – a 6 to 8 week (flexible) driving adventure around southern Africa. Destinations include Namibia, Botswana, Mozambique, Swaziland, and Lesotho (crime permitting). The car was only $28 U.S. per day, but when we factor the cost of the country permits ($100 each to enter Namibia, Botswana, Mozambique and Swaziland) it comes to $38 U.S. per day. Which is still a very good deal. We spoke with a couple of German guys who are in the room next to us and they had rented a similar car to ours and drove around South Africa for 3 weeks without any problems.

We took the car for a “test drive” today, about an hour and a half drive down to Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. Although Fred has driven all over Europe, Asia, and in South America, it still takes a little adjusting to get used to shifting gears with your left hand, using the clutch with your left foot, and driving on the left hand side, but we made out just fine, and at least all the signs are in English 🙂

After eating a delicious cheeseburger in paradise on the waterfront at Bertha’s (Simon’s Point), and listening to a live African calypso band playing Christmas songs, we drove to Boulder’s Beach (False Bay) to see the “African Penguins”. Hundreds of penguins were wandering freely on the beach, some were nesting in holes in the sand. From just two breeding pairs in 1982, the penguin colony has grown to about 3 000 in this protected environment.

The African Penguins

Here are some fast facts about the African Penguins:

– the African penguin is listed in the Red Data Book as a vulnerable species
of the 1.5 million African Penguin population estimated in 1910, only some 10% remained at the end of the 20th century. The uncontrolled harvesting of the penguin eggs (as a source of food) nearly drove the species to extinction.
– Because of their donkey-like braying call (and we got to listen to them), they were previously named the Jackass Penguin.
– Their diet consists mainly of squid and shoal fish such as pilchards and anchovy
they can swim at an average speed of 7 km/hr and they can stay submerged for up to 2 minutes
– their enemies in the ocean include sharks, Cape fur seals and, on occasion, killer whales (Orca). Land based enemies include mongoose, genet, domestic cats and dogs, and the kelp Gulls which steal their eggs and new born chicks
– their distinctive black and white colouring is a vital form of camouflage (white for underwater predators looking upwards and black for predators looking down onto the water)
– the main breeding season is in February and they are a monogamous species. The lifelong partners take turns to incubate their eggs and to feed their young

Their peak moulting season is December, after which they head out to sea to feed (since they do not feed during moulting), so we were very lucky to be able to see them on the beach. Most of them had moulted except for a few that were still losing their feathers. They return again in January to mate and begin nesting from about February to August. Tourists are warned that penguins have very sharp beaks and can cause serious injury if they bite or lunge. We were able to get so close to them that we could have pet them. Afterwards, we watched some footage of “City Slickers”, a story about a penguin named Henry and his life. It is very well done so I picked up a DVD (53 minutes) to show my Grade 4 students as part of their Science Unit on Habitats and Adaptations 🙂

We continued south and entered the Table Mountain National Park, “Cape of Good Hope”. I remember first learning about this famous location in Grade 6 (Famous Explorers Unit) that is still taught today. Finally, I could add a vivid image to my mental schema (pre-existing background knowledge) – hahaha, just thought I’d throw in some teacher-talk! It was just as I imagined – crashing waves, white caps, and gale force winds. What I hadn’t visioned was the dozens of Japanese tourists and seeing wildlife. We saw a family of baboons (wow, they look mean), and an ostrich grazing by the ocean. Apparently there are also zebras but we didn’t see any.

Baboon crossing

Here are some fast facts about the baboons we saw:

the Chacma Baboon Papio ursinus troops on the Cape Peninsula are the only protected population of this species in Africa
they subsist on fruits, roots, honey, bulbs, insects and scorpions
during low tide, they may be seen roaming on the beaches, feeding on sand hoppers and shellfish, behaviour believed to be unusual in primates
baboons are dangerous and are attracted by food (visitors must not feed or tease them)
baboons that have been conditioned to receive food from humans may have to be destroyed

The landscape reminded me of the Snowden Mountain region of Wales – rocky, scrub grass, and very hilly/mountainous. The Cape lies between two major ocean currents, the Indian and the Atlantic Oceans. Apparently, there is a difference of marine life between the two major ocean currents, due to the differing sea temperatures.

Cape of Good Hope

After three VERY windy days (southeasterlies called the Cape Doctor here), we are ready to begin our overland adventure. We have spent the last few days getting ready for the next leg of our journey. Fred was able to get his Canadian eye prescription filled for replacement eye/sunglasses/contacts (from when his daypack got stolen at the bus terminal in Tumbes, Peru) and we’ve also stocked up on toiletries, and other supplies (have still to hit a music store to pickup some CDs for some very long drives ahead). I also went to a Kodak store and had our 500+ photos on the camera put onto a DVD (only $2) and did some shopping (I bought 3 Billabong swim suits, 2 light weight tank tops (Viscose/Spandex), and a cotton pullover for a swimsuit, plus, 2 folding, small beach chairs), getting our hair cut/highlighted (I absolutely must recommend “Scar” hairdressing salon), taking our clothes to the landromat, and watching a movie at the cinema (in English “Body of Lies” starring Russell Crowe and Leonardo di Caprio – excellent). We also purchased a couple of “buffs” (National Geographic theme), which are made of a lightweight, breathable material which are used over your head/ears/nose/mouth to protect you from high winds, sun, and sandstorms.

Today, we are heading 200 km east to a fishing village called Gansbaai, on the Indian Ocean. Fred and I will be engaging in our first, hopefully of many, “extreme” adventures here in AFRICA 🙂

Stay tuned,

Lisa n Fred

Greetings from South Africa!

Fred and I flew direct from Buenos Aires to Cape Town on a Malaysian Airlines 747 jumbo jet (7 hours direct) on December 4th. We took the Backpacker Bus ($10 each) to Cape Town Backpacker Hostel where we were happy to be shown to our “suite” room in the recently renovated colonial style building. Our large room has 12 foot ceilings, the best shower yet, plus a walkout covered balcony with a spectacular view of table top mountain ($40/night) where we enjoy our coffees in the morning (that Fred makes using his filter). The only downside – no air-con or fan so the room is about 80 degrees, despite the balcony door being open. Then, with the door open, we hear the late night revelers coming in at all hours, hootin’ and hollerin’. Since our arrival, we have been fortunate to have sunny skies and 32 – 35 degree Celsius heat. I have checked the Toronto weather so will not complain anymore about our hot room (but that is why I am still awake at 1 a.m. writing this blog).

After a few hours nap, we spent the first day checking out the neighbourhood and gathering up all the travel brochures, pamplets, and tourist info we could find. We then went to a good bookstore and purchased the latest edition of Lonely Planet’s “Southern Africa” and Lonely Planet’s “East Africa”. We have used Fodor’s, Foot Print’s, Frommers’, and Rough Guide’s, but find the Lonely Planet gives the best information for people who prefer to travel independently. After a delicious plate of Penne Amatriciana at the Pasta Factory, we returned to our room to read, read, and read.

Fast Facts about South Africa (taken from Southern Africa Lonely Planet 2007 edition)

– five times the size of the UK, population 46.9 million
– world’s third most biologically diverse country
– one of Africa’s most urbanised – appoximately 60% of the population living in towns and cities
pressing issues include crime, economic inequality, overhauling the education system, and especially, AIDS
– an estimated 4.5 million South Africans are affected with AIDS – more than any other country in the world – it’s the leading cause of death in S. Africa
– since becoming a democracy for over a decade, the nation is fast becoming a society divided by class rather than colour – the gap between rich and poor is vast – one of the highest in the world
– South Africa has the highest incidence of reported rape in the world – with approximately 52,000 cases reported to the police annually, and a woman is assaulted every 26 to 60 seconds on average (the real figures could be much worse since not all women report victimization – and 20 to 40% are of girls below 18 years of age)
– football, rugby, and cricket are the favourite sports
– S. Africa is bordered by the cool Atlantic Ocean on the west and the warmer Indian waters on the east

City Bus Tour

The next day, we took an open air, city bus tour ($12 each) to get an overview of the city (population 3.2 million). It was a hop on/hop off one, so at the mid-point, we jumped off to enjoy a drink at the waterfront (pint of beer $2, glass of house red wine $1.95). We couldn’t believe how busy with tourists it was and how inexpensive the myriad of restaurants were. Fine dining at waterfront restaurants for two people for less than $25, with a view of Table Top Mountain in the background. Wow. We have been enjoying delicious breakfasts (finally!) for under $5 each, our lunches have been @ $12 (for two), and dinners around $20 (for two). We are finding the prices here cheaper than in Argentina, Uruguay, and Chile. Plus the food is twice as good 🙂

Our tour took us through several areas of the city including government buildings, the parliament house, museums, conference centres, and even a castle (with a moat around it) and also the beaches area. The guide on the bus pointed out the British billionaire, Richard Bronson’s triamaran in the waters of Clifton Bay. He also showed us where the likes of Leonardo Di Caprio stays when he comes to Cape Town and pointed out ultra modern, million dollar homes with veniculars and underground garages complete with elevators. Apparently, Bill Gates owns two homes in Cape Town. We also saw where they are constructing a new futbol (soccer) stadium to host the 2010 World Cup.

Yes, Cape Town is still a city of extremes and pockets of neighbourhoods are still very black – white, although not like it was during apartheid. Fred and I plan to go on a tour of the shanty towns (we went on a favela tour in Rio and found it very informative). We have been advised to stay in certain areas and avoid others, just like any other city. The hostel manager has advised to not be at the train station after 5 p.m. (there is a tourit train you can take to Simon’s Point).

Ferry to Robben Island

Our next day, we took the ferry (30 minutes) to Robben Island to tour the maximum security prison where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years. The island has been used for several purposes over the last few hundred years and at one point, was a leper colony. It wasn’t until the island was needed during World War II that the lepers were allowed to go back to the mainland.

Our Guide shows us Nelson Mandela’s cell

Prisoners were incarcerated right up until 1996 on Robben Island. Now, it is a museum and a World Heritage Site, and one of the most popular destinations in Cape Town. Nelson Mandela was freed from prison on 11 February 1990. Once all the prisoners had been released, the prison became a museum in 1997.

Table Mountain

What an amazing way to spend a Saturday night. Climb aboard a cable car to take you up 1,200 metres to the top of Table Mountain. The cable car holds 65 people and what is really unique is that it rotates on the way up so everyone gets the same impressive views. In one hour, it can take 900 people to the top! Also, it is half price ($7.25 each) after 6 p.m. 🙂

There wasn’t a single cloud in the sky and the 360 degree views were spectacular. We didn’t realize how mountainous and hilly the Cape Town area was until we were on top of the mountain. Plus, we had the added enjoyment of being able to crack open some bubbly and sip away as the sun set. It seems to be the thing to do while watching the sun go down. We also witnessed the very rare phenomenon of seeing a “green flash” as the sun sets over the ocean. This particular flash was actually quite large, and we saw the sun turn green for a few seconds before setting.

Sunday in Cape Town

Once again, we awoke to sunny skies and sweltering heat. There’s no better way to spend a Sunday than to head to the beach for a little sun, sand, and surf. We chose “Camps Bay” which is one of the more sheltered and popular ones. It seemed that most of Cape Town was on the beach, enjoying the light sea breeze and a very refreshing dip in the ocean (average temperature is 10 – 14 degrees C). It was no doubt the coldest water we have ever “swam” in – more like a very quick dip to cool off. A google search shows tomorrow to be almost equally as hot, so our only decisions for tomorrow will be, which beach? SPF 45 or SPF 15? Diet Coke or Water?

As you can see, Cape Town is a city with lots to see and do – we have only scratched the surface! We had originally planned to stay for a week but our plans may change 🙂

Cheers,

Lisa n Fred