In central Bohol there exists a real geological oddity. Hills made of chocolate. Hundreds of them (reportedly 1248). Really strange.

I took a bone jarring 3 hour bus ride (35p) from the Dao bus depot outside of Tagbilaran to Carmen, stopping every few minutes to pick up or drop off someone. I was perched on a hot plastic seat with no leg room in the very back of the bus, an aged vehicle that seemed to shift unhealthily when rounding sharp corners. Finally I arrived at the road that lead to the Chocolate Hills Complex, snuggly tucked into the side of one of these strange hillocks. I checked into the relatively spacious and nice rooms (375p for a double; the dorm was 'broken') and then charged up the 200 or so steps to the top of this particular hill to catch sunset. Spectacular views all around. And here.

Sunset came soon, and provided a beautiful light show.

I had a decidedly un-delicious meal at the restaurant, which was recommended by the security guard. It was supposed to be filipino, but was simply a dry, fried pork tenderloin with strips of carrot. No tasty sauce to moisten the plate of rice I had ordered. I ate it all, though. Later I enjoyed a luxury I felt I deserved, a 200p Shiatsu massage given by a very nice blind gentleman. After the hour-and-a-bit long session, during which my winces and facial contortions when unnoticed, I felt very relaxed. Ahhh. Can't beat a 4$ professional massage.

Lonely Planet recommends seeing the Chocolate Hills phenomenon by either sunset or sunrise. Having successfully seen one, I figured I ought to try and see the other. At 5:30 I woke up and threw yesterdays clothes on (which, of course, is what I do everyday.... Ewwww. Come on, they're clean enough!). In my souvenir slippers from the Makati Shangri-La I jogged up the steps to the top of the hill. There I was alone for a long time. Dawn was sluggish in it's arrival today, and soon it seemed that dawn had taken a vacation. Then, slowly the cloudy sky was bright, but no awe inspiring glow. The fog poured in on the hills and by the time Marc and his group, who rented a minivan and driver (2000p) from Panglao, arrived around 6:30 there was nothing much to see. Except maybe this.

We all ate a nice breakfast together, the five of us, looked once more from the top, then loaded into the rented van. Marc invited a German couple to join in the ride and split the cost a bit more.