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January 13, 2005

A walk on the beach

Some people have complained about my not taking enough photos, so I set out today to correct that. I woke up very late and was feeling a little 'blah'; surely because of my stomach maladies a-la-Greenwish and not the night before. I found the CNN cafe again and ordered a mushroom and cheese omlette and a big mug of coffee. Soon Pascal, the owner and head chef of this place invited himself over. A Swiss guy by origin, he had recently started this establishment. Friendly enough, but it was soon clear the he was quite the opinionated and arrogant Frenchman (as he proudly proclaimed himself. French, not opinionated and arrogant.) I gobbled up my meal, finished my conversation, and was off.

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I picked up my camera and sarong and set off up the beach. In the mid-day sun european flesh was already baking away. Some of these guys were unbelievably dark, and would surely blend in with the locals of most African countries. Can't be healthy on a German though. Skin like leather.
I walked on, past women who felt it necessary to prance around (or at least lay around) topless like they were on a nude beach back home in the Mediterranean. I thought it rather tasteless, especially given the filipino children running around splashing one another in the water nearby. That said, I was quick to take off my own shirt...
Boracay's beach is about 6km long, running most of the length of the 9km-long islands western coastline. I was situated near Boat Station #3, nearest the mainland, and this is where I set out from.
The entire length of the beach is developed, and most resorts have a restaurant or bar right fronting the beach. Relaxing beats radiate, making the walk very enjoyable and almost meditative. In clusters, local women offer massages right on the beach, much like Thailand, though decidedly cheaper at only 200p ($4CAD). I encountered many locals selling virtually everything under the sun, from pearls and Rolexes to popsicles and boatrides. Young men walk around with small racks of sunglasses - all the hottest brands, all fake.
As I made my way up the beach the resorts tended to become more and more exclusive and expensive. Beautiful resorts, spas, restaurants. Rich, aged Europeans roasting in the sun on comfortable, exclusive, bamboo recliners. Under colourful umbrellas couples sip fruit shakes or cocktails.

I passed a few beached 'whales'; very large men lying in the sun, their bathing suits tucked indiscretely so as to expose as much skin as possible.

Eventually I found myself at the end of the beach where a fancy establishment offered cool drinks to the few passersby that managed to wander this far. A limestone cliff loomed above, and I found a paved footpath that skirted against the wall, out and around the point. Electrical wiring and lights were strung loosely along the path that eventually led to a small undercut area where a small shrine was cut into the cliff. I walked out and past and found myself on a small private beach, alone, a few boats pulled up onto the sand. Onwards, after navigating the large volcanic rocks that cluttered the beach, I found myself on another beach in a bay. I sat at one of the bamboo tables, under a broad umbrella, and enjoyed a mango shake, sucking larger chunks of the sweet fruit through the straw. I really enjoyed that shake. Bit expensive at 60p, though. I left my valuables at the checkin desk of the resort (Mika Cottages) and went for a swim in the cool, refreshing water. The water temperature here in the Philippines is much cooler than in Thailand, where lukewarm might best describe the tropical waters. Here, semi-exposed to the massive Pacific Ocean, the Philippines hosts more chilled water - not uncomfortably cold, mind you, just cool enough to cause a bit of hesitation when entering. After I spoke to the manager of the resort and tried to get a deal on a bungalow; he showed me a nice Nipa Hut for only 500p. I figure I'll move up here tomorrow.

I got my belongings and headed back to my bungalow, satisfied with my day so far.

And so here are the photos I promised you:

Near boat station #3

Ripples in the white sand

Children starting on their sandcastles

Local transportation

Cocomangas; a great place to chill out

The view from the head of the beach

Me

The cliffside shrine

Hee hee hee

discarded beverage containers

Sunset a few moments ago

Posted by evonkrogh on January 13, 2005 06:51 PM
Category: Philippines, photographs
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