With the intention of waking up very early to trek the 8 hours to Long Danno, Daniel and I managed to sleep in until about 9. After our frigid morning showers and a quick repacking of our bags we set off for some Laksa to fill our bellies. Reddy was in no hurry, which relaxed us a bit, allowing us to enjoy the spicy noodle soup. Around noon, sweaty from the unusually hot dish, we set off in the baking Borneo sun. In a half hour we reahed Reddy's longhouse just south of town, he collected his gear, slung his Kelabit machete around his waist, and slipped into his loose rubber shoe/boots - maybe something sturdier might be better? The locals know best. As he led us to the trail heading towards the forest, I followed in my heavy Garmont boots - aside from one day in Japan, this was the first time I had used the heavy bastards that I'd reluctantly lugged through Asia. In Thailand I nearly shipped them home. Glad now that I didn't.

After about fifteen minutes the dirt road dwindled into a narrow trail snaking through the arid sandy forest. The trees were all short and small, unable to send roots deep into the rock hard white sandy forest floor. Reddy digressed fromt he path briefly to show us a few varieties of pitcher plant - one growing from the ground, the other hanging from a vine that was choking the tree on which it grew. A little further the jungle floor became submerged in dark, tea-coloured water, stained from the tannins in the leaf litter that so thickly matted the ground. Hand cut wooden planks were laid in the water to prevent one's shoes from getting too wet, but in the end it was inevitable. Eventually we came across a fern field where we collected young sprouts and tips for our dinner that evening - we had realized that the full 8hr trek was inpractical, and so had resigned to staying in a shack halfway. After a full bag was harvested we continued past a rice paddy and a few wild cattle, past a stilted home. After a quick interchange between Reddy and his friend we finally left the comfort of the Bario valley; a bamboo bridge led us over a muddy, fast flowing river - straight into the dense Borneo jungle. The trail was well established, a result of many years of being travelled by locals, and recently by the increasing influx of tourists. Dan and I were initially reluctant to trek the Bario Loop, as it was by far the most popular route, but we had ambitious plans to complete the loop, return to Bario and embark on a different, less travelled trek (this would not happen). At one point on the trail, Reddy stopped in his tracks. I hadn't been paying too much attention at that point, so had no idea what the interruption was all about. Snake. Where? I scanned the surrounding forest looking for pythons or bright green tree snakes; maybe it was a red and blue tropical snake? I hadn't noticed that Dan and Reddy were looking at the ground at their feet. Still unable to see it, it was pointed out that the stick lying across the path was actually a snake - a well camouflagued one. It lay perfectly still, kinked sharply at an obscure angle just behind the neck. slowly it slithered off. Very poisonous. If not for Reddy I would have surely stepped on it. Glad we hired a guide.
The jungle we trudged through was thick, tall trunks rising to amazing heights, topped with a fluffy canopy, each tree struggling to be the highest. Below, the fern and palm undergrowth grew so thickly that to try and walk through would be difficult. during the first four hours we managed to pass through almost endless varieties of forest; each type was unique and harboured it's own flora and fauna. Higher areas were drier and sunnier, while those with eastern exposure were different than those with southern. Valley bottoms were very wet... this point was driven home by Reddy's assertion that the latex trees used for the blow dart poison are only found in one particular area. Pitcher plants were most common here; jungle spinach common there; rattan here; fruit.... etc.
The entire time we spent in the jungle we were acoustically attacked by a multitude of noisy insects, birds, monkeys. Almost deafening at first, until you reach a point of saturation and manage to ignore it.
After four hours, in the dying afternoon light, we reached the shelter, which turned out to be a relatively luxurious stilted lodge. Dan and I made our way to the frigid and muddy river to bath away the sweat and mud - and blood. Whereever you walk in the jungle, leeches can be found. Planted on a root, leaf or log, they stand vertically, swaying in small circles seeking the movement of fleshy feet that bring the promise of a fresh blood meal. Although my socks were pulled high, and soaked in insect repellant, they were only too happy to jump aboard. somehow they manage to squeeze through the material of the sock and take refuge against my sweaty and warm skin. Numbing the area before perforating the skin with their sharp teeth, they then squirt you full of anticoagulent. when they gorge themselves to the point that they fall free, or if you manage to catch them in the act and pry them free, the blood flows freely for hours. Needless to say my socks took on a scarlet hue in the area of the heels.
My first skinny dipping experience in the cold jungle waters of Sarawak was brief. Brr. I felt refreshed and relatively clean, despite the dirty waters.
We ate a delicous meal made from scratch from the ferns we collected and some food brought from Bario. Later, a Swiss man with TWO hired guides joined us at the lodge. Apparently he'd booked everything from back in Switzerland; I would be interested to find out how much he paid - surely greatly more than the accepted 65RM/day/guide. He was a brutally shy man, to the point of being rude when he wouldn't ackowledge dan and my greetings or questions. As it turned out he was an avid travellor and he later managed to dominate a conversation, interupted by his stammering. interesting, but very strange fellow.
we laid ourselves out to sleep on the wooden floor of the single room lodge amidst the thick smoke from the smoldering fire and mosquito coils. Made sleep difficult.
After an early wake up and a breakfast of last night's dinner we set off. dan, reddy and I first, the other trio following behind some distance.
The trail was punctuated by many river crossings - most thick bamboo beams strung together with roots or stripped rattan, all very rickety.
After another four hours we reached Long Danno, the nearest longhouse community in the area to the south of Bario.