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December 02, 2004

Hari Raya at the Pengiran's house

A Pengiran is a member of the Royal Family, and in Brunei the sultan's relations are very well off. Probably a massive understatement. VERY well off.

While I was in Labaun, Lorrie and Vijen attended a Hari Raya celebration at a close friend's home. Anyati is a young Philippino who was bought to Brunei to marry a very wealthy local land owner, he happens to be 80-some-odd-years-old; she is perhaps 34. I met her only briefly while Vijen was dropping off some paintings that he had done for her; she's a truly lovely lady, very well off. (I heard that she's paid 1,000,000$B/year; also heard that she recieved a settlement from her husband over a family dispute amounting to 8million - whichever is true, she is not doing too badly.) At her Hari Raya party Lorrie and Vijen met a Pengiran government official, who subsequently invited them, and me, to his Hari Raya party a few days later.

Most Hari Raya parties, as I understand (I've only been to one before), involve a very quick showing of face and an equally fast eating of local foods. After the food is gone, you leave. It seems very rude to me, and I felt obligated to stay and visit at the party I went to, but it is apparently customary to come and go. The host goes to a heck of a lot of trouble to prepare the food and invite the guests, but is very satisfied when a large number of people come. Perhaps it affords them bragging rights when they host more people than their neighbours?

Around 7:30pm the three of us headed over to the Pengiran's home, about 20minutes away from Vijen and Lorrie's home in Gadong. We found the appropriate Simpang (junction) and perhaps were not surprised to find that this street existed only to provide access to his home. At the end of the 'driveway' was a low Californian style home. Roman candles were lit in the yard and along the roadway, and Hari Raya lights (Christmas lights?) lit the archway upon which grapes grew. Past the mango tree a curved cement bridge connected the parking area to the magnificent teak doorway. There were no shoes outside the door, indicating that perhaps we were early, or that we were the only guests - unlikely at a Hari Raya affair - especially at a Pengiran's house! We were greeted by a very friendly Bruneian and his wife who later turned out to be wonderful people. We were indeed the only guests so far, and we enjoyed a private tour of the large home (no palace, but very nice nonetheless). She was an aspiring artist, though her pieces on display looked more like something her children had done in kindergarten, I was prompt in my compliments though. Vijen actually spent a few minutes analysing one piece, attempting to draw the influencing styles out of it; "Picasso-ish, maybe a little Matisse, something else, not sure what..." I didn't participate in this conversation. Later Anyati and her husband, whom I had not met before, arrived with their adopted Philippino child; she was Tigger this evening and was appropriately bouncing off the walls. (Anyati's husband owns most of the retail properties in Bandar Seri Begawan - be nice to him). Finally, a lone Malaysian government worker arrived. That was the extent of this Hari Raya invitation list. I had very nice conversations with Anyati about having a suit taylored here in Brunei (might wait to do that) and also about travel in the Philippines. She inspired me after only a few minutes to travel via ferry through the islands. She, herself, was to take the ferry from Sandakan, Malaysia, to Zamboanga, Philippines, in an effort to trace the voyage she took on her way to Brunei.
I also spoke with the Pengiran, who's name would not register in my head. This is a common problem that I must work to overcome. I knew he went to McGill to study, so we spoke of Canadian universities, then of budget travel. He was very interested in my travels thus far. something I said impressed him, and towards the end of our conversation he began outlining his current business plan, describing his desire to employ knowledgeable young people. He proceeded to offer me a position, should I be interested, working along side him. I have no idea what the position would involve, or if I would even be capable of doing it. He did not seem to be bothered that my background was in theoretical biology. I was a little bewildered at this offer, and enthusiastically agreed to meet again to discuss the prospect of working together. I'm not sure at all why he offered, perhaps it was because I was Canadian... Not sure if anything will come of this, but in the end I am very flattered to have been offered a government job by a member of the Royal family...

Posted by evonkrogh on December 2, 2004 05:00 PM
Category: Brunei Darussalam
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