Time- 4:32am
Date- November 18th, 2004
Location- 24hour Indian Cafeteria across from Pudaraya bus station, Kuala Lumpur

It was here that Andrew and I drank our morning Teh Terak (Indian Chai tea); he one, I two. Having had only about 8 hours sleep in the past several days, we were blastedly tired. We had arranged a taxi with one of the indian gentlemen associated with our guesthouse (anuju hostel) for 4:45am, and were waiting to recognise the driver. Around the prescribed time, Andrew went out to the street and looked around. He found someone who he thought was the same man and we loaded our bags; there was a problem though. Several of the taxi drivers had gathered and were arguing in Bahasa. After several bewildering minutes we figured out that our driver was parked down the road and we had wrongly gotten into the wrong cab. Problem solved we loaded into the correct taxi and whizzed through the empty streets of predawn KL. The hour long trip to KL international airport was uneventful, andrew and I glazedly staring out the windows, entranced by the strobing effect of the streetlights as we drove along the wide highway.

At the airport we paid the 70RM (23$CAD) fare and unloaded, stumbling with exhaustion into the busy terminal. Check in with Air Asia was efficient. With lots of time to spare andy went to the tandas (toilets) and I went and got some fried noodles and Teh Terak. I read the free copy of the New Straight Times for a bit, but mostly just sat there. Our flight was at 7am, but we left a bit late. Seating was open, so everyone scrambled for a good one; Andy and I each got a window seat near the rear of the plane.

The 2 1/2h flight was rather uneventful, though the morning aerial view of the KL area was beautiful; contoured plantations of palm trees lining the sloping hills. Eventually we were over ocean and my eyes diverted from the window to my LP guide, then the newspaper. Didn't sleep, though I wasn't as tired as earlier in the day.

We landed in Kota Kinabalu (KK as everyone around here calls it) and deplaned onto the tarmack. Went through a relaxed customs (no stamp this time) and waited for our luggage. For 13RM we taxied into town and were dropped near a large shopping centre. So far KK was very nice, resembling the modern cities of Malaysia thus far in our trip.

Being early it was my primary goal to get a ticket to Brunei through any means possible, so we went to an internet shop. Andrew booked a flight from KL to Bali, I looked at flights... too expensive, though. decided that the ferry from KK to Labuan, then from Labuan to Muara in Brunei would be the best bet. I found the jetty and bought a ticket for the 1:30 sailing. Andrew and I bid farewell, no tears, but having travelled so far together it was a bit strange to say goodbye. He went off in search of information and bus tickets, I went and had a delicious 6RM Korean set lunch in a facier restaurant nearby.

On the ferry I met a merry Malaysian returning to his "prison" that was the Malaysian University of Sabah. We talked the entire trip, which lasted 2 1/2h, speaking over the movies playing in the background. I learned a lot about Borneo, life in Labuan, life in University (courses are first selected by you in first year, then the government steps in and determines the path of your last few years based on your performance), life in a Muslim country.

I was told that the last ferry left Labuan at 4:30pm for Brunei, and as we pulled up to the dock the clock struck 4:20. I rushed out to the ticket counter where the gave me a plastic coupon - "no time to pay, hurry!", then I rushed (without my luggage, btw) through customs, got my stamp, then back out to the same dock that we unloaded on. My bag still hadn't emerged from the pile on board. Happily the ferry waited and my bag appeared. Then I was on the ferry to Muara. I met a pair of girls from the Philippines on their way to visit a friend; we talked for a bit, but I eventually passed out.

I was only asleep for a few minutes before a crew member nudged me and I paid the 24RM fare, and recieved my passport and the documents required to enter Brunei. Soon the 45minute journey was over and we unloaded onto a wide dock where military boats, fishing boats, and ferries were moored. The sign above the immigration gate said "Welcome to Brunei" in english, bahasa and arabic, surrounded by the Toyota emblem. Down the posts it read "Drive one today". Apparently Toyota has some deal with the sultan of Brunei.

Everyone rushed off pretty quickly and soon I was left at the terminal alone, except for a few od the boat workers. With only Ringitts in my pocket, and nowhere to get money from I was stranded. The boat workers, from Malaysia and the Philippines couldn't help me out; they lived on the ferry (a literal prison for them) and had no apparent need for brunei dollars. Luckily after the immigration office closed one of the women officials offered me her mobile phone and I called my friend, Vijen, who quickly left to pick me up.

I spoke with the dock workers for awhile before they had to return to the boat, then I talked with the plain clothes security guard for awhile. Turns out that Brunei is a pretty boring place at night; nothing to do.

Vijen arrived soon, and I whizzed off to his home. Driving though the city was incredible. Only minutes from downtown, I felt as if I were in rural British Columbia. Houses were build on large expanses of land, trees everywhere. All the houses were huge multiple story buildings, with many cars parked outside each one. We arrived at Vijen's house and I showered and changed.

The two of us went out to eat some food, and on the way we drove around a bit. With it being Hari Raya (a month long celebration of the completion of Ramadan) the wide divided streets were decorated with glowing lights. Flashing and moving images, veils of tiny lights, waterfalls of light hanging from the streetlamps and sign posts. We drove past the sultans magnificent residence, seeing little more than the 24k golden dome in the darkness. In the area near his palace were veritable mansions crouching on hilltops, hidden behind tall tropical hedges and beautiful steel gates. Brand new Mercedes and BMW's and - yes - Toyotas zoomed past us. The wealth of this country was very evident. I learned a lot from Vijen during the drive, and through the dinner of Indian food we talked about life in Brunei.

As a teacher of design and art at the British girls school here, you might think that work would be strenuous and demanding, but I got the impression that it was actually more fun than work. Tomorrow he would go golfing rather than go to work (the girls are on holidays, but there is marking to be done...).

We went back to his house and, happily, went to sleep. I had my own room with a large comfortable bed. AC if I wanted, fan otherwise. A real home! I haven't had this luxury in a long time...

I slept very well that night.