BootsnAll Travel Network



Thailand Take 2

“Who does this shit?”

Bunks aboard ferryWe boarded our overnight “ferry” from the mainland to Ko Tao excited for our first island experience since arriving in Thailand. After 2 too many days in Bangkok we were desperately seeking serenity. We were led to a compartment above deck lined with bunk beds sardine style. We settled in as best we could expecting the lights to dim at departure and to find at least a few hours sleep. Moments later as our vessel found the open sea we instead found ourselves sliding atop and then pounding upon our rock hard mattresses as our boat crested and then CRASHED over each passing wave. Eric and I looked at each other in horror and disbelief and as the realization settled in that this was to be our fate for the next 6 hours he incredulously asked aloud, “Who does this shit?”

The lights never did dim and despite excruciating bladder pain a couple of hours into the journey I was unable to relieve myself due to the instantaneous nausea I felt the second my head left my pillow. Never mind standing upright wasn’t really an option given the motion of the ocean. I surrendered to the seeming inevitable fact that at age 41 I was going to wet the bed. It was pure unadulterated misery. Any Love Boat fantasies I may have entertained were crudely replaced by scenes from A Perfect Storm. This after Bangkok seemed a cruel punishment.

I anticipated it would take a second to find my stride after nearly a decade break from international travel. I was worried about Eric’s culture shock having never traveled outside Europe & North America, but I found myself hit over the head with it upon wandering the streets of Bangkok. Bangkok trafficI started to think something fundamental had shifted in those 10 years leaving me no longer equipped for the rigors of globe trotting. Granted the 30 hours travel door to door coupled with jet lag and a 3:00am arrival at our hostel didn’t exactly prepare us well for the madness that is Bangkok, but the fondness I had for the city 9 years prior was absent at every corner. Instead I found myself saddened by the inordinate abundance of trash and pollution and exhausted by the sheer number of people. We managed outings each day but any plans for experiencing the colorful nightlife were unrealized as we could barely manage dinner come evening. That city plain wore us out.

The first day’s objective was merely to find food, and since we were in the neighborhood, a tour of Jim Thompson house. Jim was an American entrepreneur who settled in Bangkok after WWII and made a fortune upon discovering the local handmade silk and exporting it around the world. His Thai-style compound was beautifully constructed and his Thai art collection impressive (no pictures allowed), but this beautiful young woman spinning silk from cocoons was the highlight for me.

Thai woman spinning silk

Second day was reserved for the Chatuchak weekend market with over 15,000 stalls and an estimated 200,000 visitors each day. Maybe not an obvious choice for two folks suffering extreme fatigue, but I wanted Eric to see it because it is the only way to believe it… the endless hoards of stuff… everything your heart desires, and much that it doesn’t… a thrifter’s dream come true.

Shoe stand at market

We somewhat regrettably stuck around one more day for Eric to take in the grandeur of Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha) and The Grand Palace (home to the King and his court back in the day), but sadly the majestic wonder was lost on us both due to the insanely massive crowds. We witnessed others simply turn away having surveyed the situation and we probably should have done the same. But, then, one hates to miss out on this.

Grand Palace Wat Pho

Needless to say we were anxious to move on. Which brings us back to the ferry. Despite the somewhat traumatic journey we arrived safely to Ko Tao, but not without incident. Once we were in sight of the shore I finally managed a mad dash to the toilet (having miraculously held it that long) and in my haste I forgot to duck both entering and exiting the hatch door so I stepped off the boat with a goose egg on my forehead and a raging sore throat that disappeared into a running nose and hacking cough that are still with me today.

KO TAO

E2 Ko TaoKo Tao is thee hot spot for diving in Thailand, but we were merely planning to snorkel and catch our breath. After a “taxi” ride (Thai taxi = lift in the back of a pickup truck) and somewhat grueling hike to Freedom Beach we dropped our bags in our bungalow and suited up for the beach. Ko Tao, like much of southern Thailand, experienced flooding the week prior to our arrival and the higher than normal tide left the beaches scant and littered with trash. Maybe not our dream spot, but approaching it, and some of the best snorkeling on the island was right out front our bungalow almost making the ferry ride worth it.

Ko Tao

Ko Tao

While we weren’t necessarily ready for another boat ride we took to the sea again after a couple of days to make our way to Ko Pha Ngan, the only island I visited in my brief stay in Thailand 9 years ago. In fact, we returned to the same beach. Thankfully the water crossing was nothing like the last.

KO PHA NGAN

“I just figured something out. Watching waves is like using the mind machine.” Then he garbled something about how focusing on the waves and the sparkle simultaneously affects the theta & beta waves producing a similar effect. The mind machine is a device which uses rhythmic sound and pulsing light to assist in reducing stress, anxiety, sleep disorders, etc. Eric’s friend, Josh, stumbled upon one at a local thrift store and shared with us its meditative and somewhat psychedelic abilities. It’s true. Wave watching is trance inducing.

….. silence ….

“Are you focusing on the sparkle?”

Bunks aboard ferryIn that moment I was. We were perched here – above Hat Yuan beach – compliments of Bamboo Bay Resort & Restaurant at last letting the stress of our travels thus far melt away. Apart from its seaside location this was home away from home – a magnet for cleansing yogis and burning man hippies all seeking enlightenment while retreating at the well known meditation resort next door.

Sadly it wasn’t all zen. The only way to reach this isolated bay is by boat taxi from a neighboring beach. Along with Bangkok this stretch of sand was busier than I remembered it and with its increased foot traffic the fume blasting and engine throttling taxis ran to and fro sun up to well past dark. This along with blasting beats from empty beach bars (audience not required) didn’t lend well to a mellow vibe. Still, we stayed put for a couple of days bodysurfing and enjoying the fantastic food and views from our favorite seaside restaurant.

Had Thien

Had Thien

Erica looking for place to say

Before turning south and switching coasts we headed inland to Koh Soak National Park. Naturally getting there was ripe with adventure. It began with our boat taxi which could barely stay afloat due to the pounding surf as we all stood knee deep in water attempting to jump aboard. Once all in the frantic push to set the boat adrift left each and everyone of us soaked from belly button down as the waves rose above and filled the boat. No money back. No complaining to the manager. This is just the way it rolls ’round here. Safety and comfort are in no way a concern, or even a consideration really. Instead what governs is simply whatever will get the job done. On one hand the complete disregard for safety or anything resembling it is liberating. Boat taxiOn the other hand terrifying. But one adapts quickly. Soon enough the sight of your tour guide sitting hands free atop the running motor while throttled full speed ahead is notable, but not heart stopping.

With dripping drawers we transferred from boat to land taxi. Then ferry, 2 buses and 4 minivans. This was not a case of tourists wandering aimlessly, this was the transport method for our start to finish pre-purchased ticket and the nature of transport in Thailand. In all the 35km by sea and 35km by land voyage took 11 hours and 9 modes of transport. Having no reservation and arriving 8:30 in the evening we caught a lift with the taxi waiting to take the family of 4 that shared that journey with us to their jungle resort. There were bungalows available and we were happy to occupy one. Over dinner we perused the tour menu and decided on an overnight trip to Chiaw Lan Lake.

KOAH SOK NATIONAL PARK

Presumably over 160 million years old this is one of the oldest rainforests on the globe. And with its towering limestone outcrops one of the most stunning I have laid eyes on. Boat safaris to see monkeys and owls and a trek/swim through a dark spider and bat and stalagmite filled cave were highlights. And sleeping in floating huts on the lake was a perk. But simply taking in the natural beauty of this jungle fringed lake was therapeutic. Calming. We were grateful to have made the trek.

Floating huts

Koah Sok

Koh Soak

Koh Saok Koh Saok

Koh Soak

Koh Saok

We then made the choice to skip over some of Thailand’s most visited spots in search of quiet. I left the States with a strong call to unwind, recharge and recalibrate. I had not so conveniently forgotten that travel abroad to a developing country on a backpacker budget rarely offers the ease and comfort one longs for on vacation. Rather it guarantees adventure. I think it’s fair to say that a need for adventure has long been a driving force in my life, but honestly I would’ve preferred to ease into it a bit more this time around. It took us a couple of weeks, but we’ve finally found our groove thanks largely to the little slice of heaven that is Bamboo Bay Resort on Koh Lanta. At the far southern end of the island it escapes the crowds. It is peaceful in every sense of the word. This is exactly what we needed to ground and let down. To better handle the next looming adventure. To truly focus on the sparkle.

Star gazing

More on Ko Lanta SOON!



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