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Barcelona: The Money Maze

Sunday, January 9th, 2011

Cambio

I’ve said before that Cash is King and I stick by it in as far as it’s got to be better than going with the exchange rate offered by UK banks, or even airport bureaux de change (€1.08 to the sterling on Friday) on top of which you’ve got to pay commission. Commission and other hidden fees soon add up. A lot of people don’t seem to understand percentages, but basically they want anything up to 3 quid for every hundred quid you change and when it comes to paying a month’s rent these figures cease to look trivial. It is all in the percentages.

Basically nothing beats a good pre-paid cashcard (and I’m talking either FairFX or Caxton here), but you’ve got to remember to top it up. I hit a snag with the thing and in either case I couldn’t take out more than 150 € a day, which is how I like it.

So, armed with a bulging moneybelt, I went in search of exchange facilities as soon as I stepped off the plane. If you work in a bank you should consider learning a European language and relocating to the continent. Not only is there no Saturday opening, but working hours are from around 8 am to 2 pm most weekdays and the rest of the time is your glorious own.

But no fear: a few minutes of Googling told me that there is an exchange office which offers good rates in the basement of El Corte Inglés, the imposing department store that looms fortress-like over the Playa Catalunya.

El Corte Inglés

So on Saturday morning, the second day of the sale (‘50% rebajas!’), I spent a few surreal hours weaving zombie-like through the crowds that filled the cavernous mazes of one of the world’s biggest department stores. I looked everywhere, from underground supermarkets and drug stores to upper-level designer outlets, and—after consulting the big table next to the lifts—patrolled the third floor where the mysterious ‘foreign money’ was allegedly located. For all its formidable size I felt oddly reminded of my home-town’s shabby department store with its worn fixtures. I’ve never seen the point of sales (I’m a discerning Oxfam shopper with a sideline in Marie Curie).

Eventually I asked a shop assistant in tentative Spanglish and, from what understood, ‘foreign money’ could only be used for buying, not for exchange. There was nothing left but hitting the nearby tourist runway of Las Ramblas.

The first place I passed displayed a rate of around 1.16, almost as much as the Caxton card. But the interbank rate had been nudging 1.20, so I decided to investigate, thinking that I could do better. —And came down to Earth with a bump.

If I understand the small print, they were going to hit me with 18 cents ‘tax’ for every Euro I bought. Some places were overtly quoting rates of less than an Euro per Pound Sterling, a drop of more than 20 percent from what I’d got on my card.

Once again it would seem that I have to pay for the vainglorious British sense of head-up-arsedness. And all the money that I’ve put up over the years so as to uphold the currency of the realm does not pay for hospitals and schools or even for Olympic show-off projects designed to swell national pride, but goes straight into the pockets of the money-changers.

However, it pays to do the footwork (if only a little). Ria Change offered a rate of 1.1045, a good 4% above their nearest competitors. But if you can wait (and I couldn’t) it will be well worth to check out the rates offered by the banks. And if your home-bank is as greedy as mine, dynamic currency exchange may not be something to be sniffed at after all. One ATM offered 1.16 and 2.5% commission, which is miles better than the Bank of Scotland (who would presumably get to charge the £1.50 overseas ATM fee but not also the conversion fee and commission on top of their shitty rates).

Getting Lost in Barcelona

Saturday, January 8th, 2011

Scenic Squat

I started my TEFL adventure in tried & tired fashion…by getting lost.

At least it gave me an introduction to the Barcelona metro system (oddly bijou) and to speaking Spanish.

I addressed some women waiting on the platform. “Perdone. ¿Es este el trein para Catalunya?” (A subway station.)

Thank you, Paul Nobel!

Of course they didn’t understand me so I said “para Catalunya?” and they nodded. For once I was moving in the right direction.

They don’t speak Spanish here but Catalan, so I think I’ll end up with some sort of Spanish/English/French pidgin, or ‘Fraspanglish’ as Alexandria calls it.

The metro would be a relative bargain, at about 16 € per ten 2-zone rides*, were it not that I end up paying double for everything. It began when I inadvertently bought a return ticket from the airport. Then I got to the station at 01:40 yesterday night (I know, my new friends are tiring me out) to see that the next train was 40 minutes away. So instead I chose to get lost on my way home. This morning I went into the wrong entrance and had to enter through the gates again.

But I made it to our picnic and we enjoyed some spectacular views and a sunny afternoon. Short sleeves in January!

Early night today. My friends have succeeded in tiring me out.

* Still paying double here: the whole of Barcelona is in zone 1!

Waiting

Thursday, December 30th, 2010

Barcelona gets as much sunshine in January as London gets in September.

Last September I thought the sun was shining down on my new life in London. Perhaps it is symbolic that I’m going to Barcelona at the end of the first week of the new year.

But the first week of the new year feels oh so very far away from where I am now, just past the wrong side of Christmas. This season creates its own hell and it feels as if it will never end. It feels as if the sun has set over London for good.

The damp cold creeps through my coat and up my bum from where it rests on a wet wooden bench in Finsbury Park. The morning fog brightens as if someone has turned up a dimmer switch. There is no visible light source, yet the effect is sudden. Dark one moment, bleak daylight the next.

It’s not yet eight, already 7:49. Too early, and too late.

*

8:06 and this weird milky day doesn’t have the decency to end, even though mornings and evenings look exactly alike.

By now the sun will be shining brightly over Barcelona: 3 hours and change more of it each day than London gets.

I have written about and documented my travels since 2004 and penned a few novels. I’ve had close to 100 rejections for various short stories, tried and failed to run a sandwich shop and ditto to train as a chef. None of this means that I contribute. I therefore do not belong in this twilight zone.

My early memories are sunnier, all the way back to when I was young and fresh-faced and took on the challenge to live in another country, and another culture, for the second time in my life. That was back in 1987, 23 years ago and change.

Teachers have to be good at explaining things. I never was—I’ve never had the patience—but I’ve learned how to speak slowly once, into a microphone, in front of an audience.

As my Sensei put it, twenty years later: “It’s all theatre.”

That’s all it is.

I should be just fine.

TEFL-Too Good To Be True?

Tuesday, December 28th, 2010

Grand Palace8

Oh yes, there are many pitfalls when it comes to TEFL. Having narrowly avoided the Chiang Mai Linguistics Institute meltdown (an option I was seriously considering when I still thought I could go to Libong to volunteer), I toyed for a while with courses that offer guaranteed job placements, until I decided to focus on the EU both because it’s more constructive and because I don’t want to run from the problems I’m facing right now. Hey, Barcelona is practically a commute away from London.

It turns out that this was another good decision. As TEFLtastic puts it, there are jobs—even in this day and age—that nobody wants to do. How do you grade homework for a class of 70 students? Obviously you can’t set them individual tasks every day, not even small ones: if you spend 10 minutes a day marking each student you’ll add 58 hours to your working week! Perhaps you could set them one task to mark over the weekend. Once they are more advanced they could work on a mini-project that you’ll assess over the holidays…

But there are two problems with that. The first I’m going to dismiss. You may have to face a class of 70 kids and if you volunteer in areas desperate for teachers, you almost certainly will. Since this is something I hope to do one day, I’ll take that as a given.

The second is more important. The kids cannot be granted (sufficient) individual attention, and—especially in areas where educational services are patchy—you’ll be faced with an even broader range of abilities levels among your students.

There is no practical solution to this, but there are a few things worth trying.
[read on]

Going to Barcelona

Friday, December 17th, 2010

I’ve just booked my flight (January 7th) and accommodation for the course is sorted. All that remains is to complete the pre-course task and to pack.

I keep telling myself that I’m not going to a Gulag. I’m going to the world’s top beach city. Barcelona gets a hundred hours more sunshine per month than London, year round. In January, it will be as sunny there as it is here in September.

I should be thrilled. I love to travel, to explore other countries, and nothing rejuvenates the mind more than learning another language and adapt to another culture. I would be over the Moon—if John was coming with me.

But John is not coming. This isn’t an adventure, a couple of months or years in the sun until we return home, full of tales and ready to face a contented future together. John is already home, but I am not.

I’ve lived in the UK for twenty-three years—exactly half my life—but in all this time I’ve never asked whether I could stay. I was already here when we met and got married and kind of … just settled in.

It never occured to me that I couldn’t just do that. Thankfully it’s not too late. My sister, married to a Brit, is applying for her ‘voluntary’ permit to remain, and eventually ILR and citizenship, while she is still working, and before she finds herself back in Germany sans her husband, because she has fallen on mis-fortune, ill-health or old age.

I do not have that option because six years in Tadley mean that I haven’t been working and therefore cannot apply for a permit. I’ll have to start all over again. And since I will have to retrain—and with the job market being what it is—I may as well go down the TEFL route. Perhaps there is work in Spain. I hope so. If John finds work in Barcelona or Madrid for a couple of months we could then apply to return to the UK in an orderly fashion, with me as the duly declared spouse of a returning EU national.

But this won’t happen for a while. I’ll have to go first. I’ll have to hope that I can find enough work in Spain to cover national insurance and qualify as a resident, at least for the time being.

This isn’t a trip.

This is exile.

All Change

Sunday, November 28th, 2010

New Cross Station
When I got married to John, back in 1989, they didn’t declare national holiday, and 21 years later the system has seen fit to annul our marriage.

Until recently we’ve been living in a small town where there were no prospects and where I never really integrated. All this was supposed to change when we returned to London.

At long last, I might get around to apply for British citizenship, integrate fully into society so that I could join my politically-inclined friends in their Facebook banter. After all, I’d arrived back home.

What followed is a shock: I can’t remain in the UK unless I work.

I haven’t had a job since shortly after the treaty changes came about in October 2000 which wiped out my past. Before then it had never occurred to me to ask for a residence permit or indefinite leave to remain as these formalities were regarded as strictly voluntary.

Surely this could not be right. I showed the woman at the citizenship checking service my 21-year-old marriage certificate.

“That means nothing,” she said.

Turns out that she is right. Being an EU citizen married to a Brit means nothing. John is not regarded as an EU national because he is not exercising his treaty rights in his own country, and therefore the EU convention on human rights does not apply to him (or by extension to me, since I’ve also not been exercising my treaty rights).

I don’t want to hear the snorts of incredulity, the “what, really?”s, the bleating of the young ones who wonder where they, or their girlfriends, stand. I’ve been here since deep time, spent half my life here—so much of it that I could only ever hope for it to be a quarter at most, more likely a third. I’ve grown up in this country. And now I have to do it all over again.

I may be 46, but I put 24/11/2010 as my birthday on my application form, as if I would only be born the day after the TEFL interview, once I’d been offered a place. And that is how it feels: all fresh and pink. Raw and unable to make any sense of the language, the country, the food, or the fact that, in Spain, the almond trees will blossom in January.

It’s not like I’m going to a Gulag, or even to prison. It’s just the separation that hurts.

Right now, I’m not quite sure how I will introduce myself to the bright young things waiting for me to join them on the forum and, in a few short weeks, on the course in Barcelona.