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Archive for August, 2004

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Dips & Bits

Saturday, August 21st, 2004

Great — every time I sit down in front of the TV, Britain seems to win another gold medal!
A healthy lunch while vegging on the sofa consists of lightly toasted pita bread with salad and dips. Apart from the trusted stand-bys of humus, taramasalata, olives and Greek salad this might include:
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Into the Serengeti

Friday, August 20th, 2004

Tanzania 1984
It seemed to grow even colder. I began to wish that I had packed a whoolen sweater or a thick coat. The hills were shrouded in a thick mist and the long grass was clammy and wet.

I went to the lodge for breakfast to find that my host from last night was serving. Very embarrassing. More importantly, staff were strictly forbidden from befriending guests, so I had to act nonchalantly. He winked and I smiled.
I felt somewhat cheap when I left my tip, though it was a good one by my tight-fisted standards.
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Ngorongoro’s wild nightlife

Thursday, August 19th, 2004

Tanzania 1984
It was late. The damp cold outside had kept me in the lodge longer than intended. The nice receptionist who had mentioned a cheap room that morning wasn’t there and while his colleague invited me for a cup of tea I did not quite trust him. I would have paid the going rate but I could not risk him asking for the money declaration form.
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A Green Greek Supper

Wednesday, August 18th, 2004

Sport is bad for you. Whoever said it was good for you? Five days in and I am already hooked to the box; the Olympics being about the only occassion I watch daytime-TV other than at Christmas.
It’s alright for John, he at least gets to go to work sometimes, but I can envisage myself 10 days on, and 2 stones heavier with oily, acne-ridden skin, scoffing pizzas out of boxes and guzzling cans of cider.

Luckily, Greek food is quite healthy if you go easy on the oil. This dish looks fresh on the plate and tastes fresh too, although it is not “green” in the sense of being vegetarian (recipes based on Aussie’s Women’s Weekly as before):
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The greatest Zoo on Earth

Wednesday, August 18th, 2004

Tanzania 1984
We drove down into what is in effect the biggest zoo on Earth. From the top of the crater there was no sign of the extraordinary wildlife in the pan below. We drove down steep slopes, past primordial tree-like Euphorbias, into the valley of the crater itself and into something out of Eden.
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Sneaking a Safari

Tuesday, August 17th, 2004

Tanzania 1984
Arusha — from one large and dirty town I had come to another. I did not intend to stay long.

When we asked for a room at the YMCA I noticed that Tanzania was expensive, even when paying with black-market cash. Our accommodation cost 20 US$ each, according to the official rate. While the street-rate was five times that, tours and safaris had to be paid with money accompanied by official exchange receipts. We had to think of something.
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Cross-country Rally

Monday, August 16th, 2004

Kenya 1984
After a week in Nairobi it was time to leave — before I forgot what continent I was supposed to be in.

I was drawn to the sea. At first I had wanted to avoid the tourist resort of Mombassa, but a friedly Arab had offered me a lift.He even offered to pay for my room at the posh ‘Hotel Iqbal’, which I declined. But I accepted the lift. My mind was made up completely when he said I was certain to see dolphins off Mombassa. So that morning I checked out of the New Kenya Lodge and waited over a pipe and a cup of tea while the Arab took care of some business.

I never did get to Mombassa.
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Chewing the cud

Sunday, August 15th, 2004

Kenya 1984
The border crossing into Kenya was entirely without incident. That is worth a remark.

The train from Kampala crossed the equator early in the morning. Judging from the view, I found that hard to believe. We were rattling past green fields of corn and lush meadows with piebald cows grazing in them. I was not surprised when we crossed a thick pine forest. At the next station, men with wooden baskets full of juicy pairs walked through the train. It was as cold as back in Germany. Somehow I had imagined my first equator crossing to be different.
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Greek Salad and Moussaka

Sunday, August 15th, 2004

With the Olympics comes Food Fit for the Gods. Two weeks of Greek eats which I will review here as I get along. For the most comprehensive Greek recipe site on-line go to: greek-recipe.com. However, the recipes below are based on my tried and trusted “Greek-style Cookery” from the Australian Women’s Weekly Home Library.
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First Class

Saturday, August 14th, 2004

Uganda, 1984
There was a station in Kasese. The town was well developed with paved roads, electricity and a daily train to Kampala scheduled for four in the afternoon.

I had 610 Ugandan shillings and hoped to get a ticket but the cheapest fare was 800 Sh. From my secret belt-pouch I took an English pound note which I had left from a previous summer’s trip to the UK and which now turned out to be a blessing. It was worth 200 Sh. It was enough for a ticket, if not to buy food. My stomach was grumbling.
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