Angkor
I got my ass out of bed today at 5!!
My moto guy was waiting outside for me. It was still dark and a little chilly. I asked him if he was cold and he misunderstood and started to take his jacket off for me – so sweet! We drove to the same spot and I climbed again to watch the sunrise. This time though there was nobody else there. The sunrise was so beautiful!
We then drove to Angkor Thom. It took me couple of hours to look around. Angkor Thom was built during the late twelfth/thirteenth centuries. It is an architectural masterpiece and home to maybe a million inhabitants. The Bayon was at the centre.
The Bayon had 54 towers, each tower with four heads, each facing one of the points of the compass, theory has it that they are the images of Jayavarman VII. Ever get the feeling someone’s watching you? There are 216 gargantuan faces of Avalokitesvara watching over visitors to the temple. The carvings on the outlet wall depict vivid scenes of life in the 12th century Cambodia, including cockfighting and kickboxing. Although a Buddhist temple, it has a Hindu history too, and the themes of both religions can be found in the relief’s (carvings) in the galleries.
I went a little off the beaten track exploring, but got scared as the temples are surrounded by jungle and there’s a chance that landmines are still about.
As I came out kids were running over from the restaurants and shouting ‘lady you want drink? You buy from me’. I rushed to the moto guy and we drove off to the next temple. By 10am I was already feeling tired, so we had a drive to Banteay Srei a temple further out and I got to see more countryside and villages. It was a pretty 10th century temple, it’s miniature proportions, and unusual pinkish colours create a surreal effect. The sharp and detailed carving is well preserved. The quartz arenite sandstone used in construction causes the roseate tones. The reddish sandstone against the green backdrop of the jungle is a magnificent sight. It’s a magical, miniature fantasyland. Myth has it that the intricate decoration was done by a woman.
We then headed for Ta Prohm. This temple was definitely my favourite. Ta Prohm looks like it fell straight out of a film set from Indiana Jones and has recently been used for shooting both Tomb Raider and Two Brothers. The 12th century Mahayana Buddhist temple has been left to be devoured by the jungle, whereas the other temples have been preserved with a massive programme to clear away damaging tree roots that slowly strangle the inside, it is a maze of narrow corridors and crumbling stonework, areas of which are roped off, as the chances of collapse are serious.
After lunch I went to see Angkor Wat, I spent a good few hours in awe of this place. It is the worlds largest religious building, with it’s soaring towers and extraordinary bas-reliefs. It is one of the most inspired and spectacular monuments ever conceived by the human mind. The central temple consists of 3 elaborate levels. Stretching around the outside of the central temple is an 800m long series of amazing bas-reliefs. The one I liked best, ‘the churning of the Ocean of Milk’ depicts 88 asura (demons) on the left and 92 deva (gods) on the right, churning up the sea to extract the elixir of immortality. There were some very steep steps up to the third level and some people wouldn’t even go up. It was the coming down that was my problem. I finally mustered up the courage and slowly took one step at a time, I never realised I had a fear of heights (or maybe just of falling) before this!
I was absolutely shattered after this and headed back to the guesthouse.
Cocktails and more pizza in Siem Reap rounded off a great day!
Posted by
danikeo on December 10, 2004 04:32 PM
Category:
Cambodia