The Vagrant Gypsy Life

Day 1 : Seattle/Charlotte Monday Aug 30

3 frantic days of packing, cleaning and moving before the apartment was empty and clean enuogh to allow me to hand the keys over to the manager. Amazing how much work there was, especially when I got to the last stages! I felt like a rabbit who is separated from his carrot and could only cover, at any one go, half the distance between it and himself!

Uneventful flights from Seattle to Charlotte and from Charlotte to Rio. Being a pseudo-Brasilian does work sometimes. A flight attendant was assured that I was Brasilian and talked to me in Portuguese a couple of times before she would accept otherwise.

Day 2 : Rio, 31/08

The international airport at Rio was much smaller than I expected. Of course, I have to remind myself that the reality of Brasil may not quite match up to the one of my dreams.

After checking into the hostel run by an Aussie married to a Brasilian, I went out for a long walk along the beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana. Middle of a working day and the beaches were bursting with life. I was glad I had my shades on as I walked on, casting an avuncular eye on the kids and the teenagers making out and a far from avuncular eyes on some of the other comely figures. A beautiful day, clear blue skies, a beautiful beach and quite a bit of eye candy made it a very nice start to my trip. I did have the occasional George Kaztanza moments where I decided to pull in my gut – didn’t want the Brasilian men blaming me for turning their women off men!

I couldnt also help thinking that I was bloody well born in the wrong place. I should really have been born in Rio! I think (one of) the Gods surely got that wrong!

I was ready for a quiet night at the hostel; that was till I got back and ran into a bunch of people going to Lapa for a Samba concert. Got back to the hostel at 3:00 the next morning. A very enjoyable concert in Lapa, the party quarter of Rio. The place seemed like a museum of curius artefacts when it doesnt host concerts. And oh boy, Brasilians have double joined hips or some kind of machine that allows them to move them in a seemily impossible manner!

Day 3 : Rio, 01/09

After breakfast, went for a stroll and a swim at Ipanema. 8 am and there were people out swimming, jogging, playing football, volleyball and sunbathing. It must surely be nice to live so close to the beach. It is quite enjoyable to walk along the beach and listen to the sound of the waves. I am determined to make the morning walk a daily event while I am here.

I was invited by 3 folks working at the hostel to join them on a short day trip (a local, and two backpackers who work at the hostel in exchange for accommodation.) Metro to Centro and we start the afternoon off at a Confeiteira that has been open since 1894. A snack that melted in my mouth, a fruit juice and a chocolate surely is the lunch of the gods!

A short walk found us at the Metropolitan Catedral. Quite an interestng structure, which can house upto 20,000 devotees. After that a tram ride led us up into the neighbourhood of Santa Teresa. Once the neighbourhood of the rich, now home to artists and the bohemian crowd, it is one of my favourite parts of Rio. Old Beautiful buildings, narrow cobbled streets and a few spots which offer lovely views. (Parque do Ruinas)

An early night. Was in bed and asleep by 21:00!

Day 4: Rio, Sept 2

Started the day off with another walk on the beach.

I form a theory as to why people in Rio are so laid back while I walk. Surely it is the weather, the sun, the beach and the beautiful scenery on offer. Maybe the folks from warm climes like life too much to get riled, go to war, etc.

I take a few minutes to watch children ages 4-5 playing football. Some of the children could play! No wonder Brasil is good at the game. They start so young, it is in their blood!

Went on a tour run by a voluble Brasilian, with a few people from the hostel. Tour started at 10:15 and I got back to the hostel at 18:30 after a packed day! We started off by driving around a few neighbourhoods. Then a short trip to a waterfalls in Tijuca, which at 37.5 sq km is apparently the largest forest land in the middle of a city in the entire world. Of course, on a tour, you only see a little of the place. I resolve to go back for a hike. It is cool and there is a nice breeze.

A 20 minute ride and 220 steps later, it is Cristo Redendor at the top of the Corcovado mountain. The statue of Christ with wide-open welcoming arms is surely one of the most visited spots in Brasil! The views from the monument of the city are all-encompassing and jaw dropping. It was a lovely day, though there was a bit of a haze.

Lunch was at Santa Teresa. Rice, beans and a fruit jiuce! Yum. I don’t think I will ever get tired of fruit juices; suco de frutas naturales. Kerala does extend its influence beyond its boundaries…

After lunch we went to see Jorge Selaron’s mosiac steps in Lapa. He had the steps leading up from Lapa to Sta Teresa covered in tiles, many of them brought from other countries. His assistant rattled off many names and showed me the tile they got from the Taj Mahal!! I wonder how they procured it. The moustachioed eccentric artist showed up soon enough in a red hat and a red Tshirt. He allowed himself to be photographed with most of us tourists. Seemed quite an interesting character who has seen a lot of the world! A Chilean who played tennis and lived in India in his youth, he has made a favela in Rio his home. I liked his paintings too. If Rio had been at the end of my trip, I would have brought some home with me!

I wonder how long I will keep up the regular blog entries….

Tags: Travel

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