Kashgar – Part II (Xinjiang Province)
Back in Kashgar again, we took the opportunity the next day to visit Abakh Hoja Tomb (along with Juin and Kathleen). At first glance it seems to resemble a miniature Taj Mahal. It is also called the “Fragrant Concubine’s Tomb”. Located on the outskirts of Kashgar, it was wonderful to wander around its extensive grounds in such a peaceful setting. But then again, given its remote location, it was impossible to find a taxi back into town when we were done. Lucky for us, we were able to catch a ride on one of the local buses at the very beginning of its route! Kathleen used this opportunity to approach every local person on board, asking to take their photo. She looked so eager that no one had the heart to say “no” to her. Needless to say, she’s going to come out of this trip with some pretty amazing pictures!
Our bus passed by Kashgar’s famous Market, so we decided to hop off and check it out. Although it wasn’t Sunday, apparently Kashgar’s “Sunday Market” is open 7 days a week, becoming much larger on Sundays. The market wasn’t too busy this day which worked to our advantage: the locals were happy to take time and chat with us; some could speak a little English or some Chinese (or variation of it). I would have to say that Kashgar’s market is similar to most Chinese markets, but it includes extensive quantities of beautiful carpets!
When we started this trip, I was hoping to find that authentic Xinjiang food was much better than that found in my city of Hangzhou. Some restaurants in Kashgar have already proven that, serving up dishes that were simply “so so”. I’m talking lots of mutton, bread, and potatoes – bland, bland, bland. Thankfully, we finally found a great outdoor diner right across the street from our hotel serving up juicy kebabs, tasty noodles with vegetables, and naan flatbread, all for just 13 RMB! (Around $2). Yummy!
On Sunday, many of us planned to visit the ‘big’ Sunday Market, but were disappointed to hear that it, as well as the Animal Market, had been closed down by police, fearing a repeat of violence similar to the riots that took place in Urumqi one week earlier. (I found out later that they didn’t actually ‘close’ them; they simply asked people from the local villages not to come into town).
So instead, I spent most of the day at John’s Café, updating my travel notes, and chatting with a few new friends. Kathy went for a bike ride, so I finally headed out into the streets to see what shops might be open. The Id Kah Mosque was still closed (it had been closed since Monday after the Urumqi riots, fearing it would be a target here in Kashgar). Even though I was able to see it clearly from across the street, I was not permitted to take even one photo! I actually never did get a chance to do any shopping (some shops were thankfully open), because a huge sand storm blew in, forcing me back to John’s Café at my hotel!
The police presence in Kashgar seemed to be getting heavier, by the day. This morning I saw a huge convoy of soldiers streaming through town. I also learned that there were some disturbances on Friday night which resulted in several deaths. I thought: Oh my god, it’s happening again!
What helped me to ultimately make the decision to leave the Province of Xinjiang altogether, was the news that on Sunday, drivers bringing back their tourists from Karakuli Lake were prevented from entering Kashgar city (and they LIVE there!). While tourists were permitted to enter the city, the drivers were not! Our next two destinations were supposed to be Kuqa and Turpan; I had heard a rumour that some of the fighters from Urumqi had fled to these towns. The riots in Urumqi were between Hui and Han Chinese. My friend is Han Chinese. She and I have been lucky twice; I wasn’t going to chance it a third time!
We will be sad to leave Kashgar. Instead, we’re off to Chengdu in Sichuan Province to sample their wonderful teahouses, enjoy some Sichuan Opera, see the Pandas and travel to some fantastic Tibetan Villages to experience their culture! My budget is in the ‘toilet’ now because of all these unplanned flights, but our safety comes first! And we’re going to have a great holiday adventure, no matter what!
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