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Last Day in CHONGQING

Sunday, May 18th, 2008

I met Steven from England at my hostel on the second day of my visit.  He is in his mid-50’s and doing a ‘round the world’ trip.  He has some amazing destinations in mind!  We decided to travel together on my last day since we both wanted to see many of the same things. 

Three Gorges Museum

Recently opened, the new Three Gorges museum is a must for history and culture buffs. It is a magnificent piece of modern architecture. It hosts a display on the new dam and river and the relics that were either lost or moved to higher ground when they raised the water levels.  There are also exhibits on the recent history of Chongqing and the War years, and the ancient culture of the Ba people.

I was particularly impressed to see so many signs in English, as well as some nice ‘clean’ bathrooms on each level!  Strangely enough, however, after enjoying the first exhibit hall because of the wonderful English signage, none of the remaining exhibit halls contained English signs and descriptions.  Most disappointing – I hope they will improve on that in future.  But the building itself is definitely worth seeing.  

Chongqing’s Great Hall of the People

Chongqing’s Great Hall of the People is traditional and mirrors those of China’s ancient classical dynasties. It closely resembles an enlarged version of the Temple of Heaven in Beijing.  The surrounding People’s Square was featuring a German Festival while we were there, so we decided to take a break to ‘sample’ some German Beer and Sausage – yum!  

Ci Qi Kou Village

We caught a taxi to take us 14km out of the city centre to Ci Qi Kou Village.  Shortly before arriving, we spotted “Po Lun Temple” and agreed to check it out while we were there.  Ci Qi Kou Village consists of houses dating from the Ming and Qing Dynasties.  Much of the two and three storey construction is of bamboo and timber. Blue bricks and pillars set off the white stuccoed walls, while the windows are covered in lattice-work. 

The village was a nice escape from the highrises of Chongqing.  The three notable attractions of the village are the tea bars, the artists’ studios and the Shu Embroidery workshops. It is said there are more than 100 tea bars, each with their own particular characteristics. Once called Long Yin, the village gets its current name from all of the porcelain relics and kilns that have been found there.  

We wandered away from the main streets where all the ‘souvenir shops’ are, climbing up the steep staired alleyways where we could view more of the locals engaged in their daily activities.  We got lost a few times until a woman helpfully directed out of the maze.  We eventually had to climb all the way to the main street before continuing our search for the Po Lun Temple.   

On the way, however, I spotted the Perfect Time International Youth Hostel!  I knew I should have stayed here!  Although the town is outside Chongqing, there seems to be lots to do here – there are lots of small restaurants, tea houses and shops – enough to keep me busy, that’s for sure.  We went into the Hostel and found the atmosphere very welcoming.  Wandering through to the back, we found a big living room where people were watching TV.  There is even a bar at the back, where a young man offered us some nice cold local beer! 

Seeing a large deck outside, we decided to take a break for a short while.  Settling back on the deck with our cold brew, we both expressed regrets that we both didn’t get rooms at this hotel.  Next time, I promised myself!   

I haven’t said much more about those moquito bites on my ankles (they’re pretty bad), but the manager of the hostel certainly noticed them!  She came out minutes later with some medicine which she insisted on applying to my ankles.  She even poured some into a small bottle for me to take with me!  Such great hospitality, and we weren’t even staying there!  Next time, for sure, I will be staying at Perfect Time International Youth Hostel! 

We were given directions to find Po Lun Temple (Bai Ya Temple) and sure enough, it was less than a 5-minute walk away!  It was built in 535-556 AD and has quite a history.  The power of Buddha in the old temple is very pure and strong.  It is said that all can find the truth of the universe here.  All I know is that this very beautiful place was built in the Ming Dynasty and is now a protected historical site.  That’s a good thing! 

CLOSING NOTES 

You know, I initially traveled to Chongqing simply for one purpose: to see the Dazu Rock Carvings.  I expected nothing more than that.  But, as a result of my good/bad experiences, I discovered that it is the people of Chongqing who made my short holiday something truly special.  I will be back!   CHECK OUT MY PHOTOS using the Link which is located on the right side of your screen.

Day 2 – Robbed in Chongqing – I am so lucky!

Sunday, May 18th, 2008

Strange title, isn’t it?!  Well, here’s what happened… 

Friday morning I headed out to Wai Mao Shi Chang (Foreign Exports Market) to buy some ‘large’ clothes.  I had a wonderful time exploring the mazes of shops in several large buildings and chatting with the sales clerks.  

Just as I was leaving the marketplace, I happened to glance down – the zipper to my little black bag was OPEN!  I was upset, but not overly so – I figured, okay, the guy who just stole my money wasn’t going to get too much (I always make sure not to put much in my wallet).  But as I explored my bag further I realized he also took my little black wallet which contained all my cards: ID, credit cards, bank card, police registration in China – NOW I WAS REALLY UPSET!   

You know, I consider myself quite vigilant and aware, so I just couldn’t believe how stupid I was.  How the heck did someone get close enough to me to open my bag and take two things out of it.  I keep it directly in front of it, with my hand over it most of the time!  How did I not notice?   The reality of what had just happened was finally getting to me and I headed into a hotel where I desperately needed to sit down and catch my breath.  My mind was flying – I need to cancel my credit cards!  But I couldn’t remember which cards I had brought with me.  And, the emergency telephone numbers were also in that little black wallet!  Thankfully, I still had my airplane tickets and my passport, as well as more cash stashed away behind a zippered pocket in the bag. 

Once I had calmed myself down, I realized there was nothing more I could do until I returned home the next day.  In the meantime, since I still had money, I should at least continue my day and go and see Huguang Huiguan. 

Huguang Huiguan or Guild Hall, with its high walls and tiled roofs, flying eaves and exquisite wood carvings is a collection of Guild Halls built by Chongqing Governors and Merchant Trading groups from other regions of southern China. It contains several local Opera Theatres, a small museum and art galleries.  Opened in October 2005 this beautifully restored complex of traditional architecture is located on the banks of the Yangtze.  It is worth visiting for the architecture alone. Many of the original buildings and wood-carved theatres are original, and many well-worn stone doorways, stairs and flagstones can be seen. The complex is located above a large portion of the old city wall and one of the city gates, Dong Shui Men, is outside the exit/entrance. 

This is where my story gets really interesting!

I was still shaking when I arrived at the Guild Hall, so I told the guides, I wanted to sit down for a minute.  Most of the girls had great English and gathered around, offering me water and sympathy as I told my tale.  But, in the middle of it, my mobile phone started to ring.  It was a Chinese caller so I passed my phone to one of the guides.  Turns out, the caller had found my black wallet!  I’m glad I put my business card in it.  I don’t usually bring my mobile with me either, so it was a good thing I did! 

Long story short: The manager of the Guild insisted I take Edie (one of the guides) with me and we went to find the man’s shop.  It was really difficult to find and involved us stopping to ask for help many times.  Finally a man gestured to us from across the street, asking if I was the tourist from Canada.  I was, so he told us to follow him while he led us through yet another maze of shops – I was starting to worry a bit – where was he taking us?  Should I be afraid?   

Finally, we found ourselves in a local shoe shop where the man was waiting for us.  A friendly Chongqing man, he presented me with the wallet and asked me to check the contents.  EVERYTHING WAS THERE!  I could not believe my eyes!  I thanked him profusely and attempted to present him with a reward.  He frantically shook his head and waved his hands.  “No, no”.  He said he wanted nothing, that it was his ‘duty’ to help the tourists.  I was so surprised and impressed.  The man told me that the thief is known in the area – he is from Xinjiang and his people are very poor.  To be honest, I had first suspected that this man was the thief and simply wanted me to give him a huge reward since he probably could not use the credit cards. 

This man reinforced my initial impression that Chongqing people are very friendly.  Before the theft, I had already experienced several interactions with local people and have been very impressed with how helpful and friendly they are.  Even the taxi drivers!  Whenever the taxi fare is more than a Yuan, ie Yuan 11.30, I give them 12 Yuan and they want to give 1 Yuan back.  Unbelievable! 

So, my guide from Huguang Huiguan and I eventually made it back.  I asked to meet with the Manager to make sure the guide would not be fired (we were gone a long time).  He smiled and said no problem, that it was their ‘duty’ to help the tourists.  He then asked my new friend to give me a personal tour of Huguang Huiguan.  Although I had paid the entrance fee, I was not asked to pay for an English Guide – Invaluable! 

Be sure to visit Huguang Huiguan if you have a chance.  The architecture is really quite wonderful, but you can’t beat the hospitality of the people working there!  Say Hello to Edie for me!  She’s my saviour!

This whole experience taught me a valuable lesson.  First of all, I realize I have become far too comfortable while living in China.  From now on, no matter where I travel in China, I will remember to use my ‘money belt’.  And I will continue to believe in the goodwill of most people I meet.  I will not let negative experiences tarnish the overall experience.  If I had not decided to go and visit Huguang Huiguan, my story would have had a bad ending.  Most Chongqing people don’t speak English, so who could have helped me when the man called?  

Tomato Kitchen
 
Before I came to Chongqing, I got in touch with a teacher whose posts I have read often on the internet.  He helped me out a great deal, suggesting places to go and see as well as letting me know whether or not it was safe to go to Chongqing.  

I invited him and his wife out for dinner that evening and got a chance to learn more about live in Chongqing.  We went to the Tomato Kitchen (on Nanping Lu – there are several locations).  I can’t recommend it highly enough.  I had the best salad, I have ever eaten in China, and my pasta dish was wonderful. What stands out about this restaurant are the prices.  Back in Hangzhou I would have paid 50-60 for the pasta dish, but at Tomato Kitchen is was only 36 Yuan.  The prices are very reasonable and I hope they will open a restaurant in Hangzhou one day!  

3 Days in CHONGQING

Sunday, May 18th, 2008
Everyone told me not to go to Chongqing.  Just hours away, nearby counties had just experienced a 7.8 earthquake!  But, I was determined to go now.  I know I was being selfish, but I had already paid my ... [Continue reading this entry]