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May Update – Hangzhou

Monday, May 28th, 2007

HAVE A BABY – Don’t come to China right now – you’ll get PREGNANT! I’m not kidding! 2007 is the Year of the Pig and apparently this is a good year to have a child. So, the streets are teeming with pregnant women these days. Most seem to be about 5 months along, so guess what they were doing during the New Year holiday! In a recent news report, it was announced that over 90,000 women are expected to give birth this year, in Hangzhou alone! Can you imagine what impact this Baby Boom is going to have throughout China?!

HIKING – A few weeks ago my English Major students invited me, and another teacher to go ‘climb the hills’ around Hangzhou for a view of Baochu Pagoda. It was originally constructed between 968 and 975 during the Northern Song Dynasty. The original pagoda was a mixed structure of brick and wood, but unfortunately all the wooden parts have been destroyed, leaving only the main body, built of brick. The present pagoda is a hexagonal structure standing 7 storeys high. Perched on Baoshi Hill, Baochu Pagoda is a landmark and one of the important tourist attractions of beautiful West Lake.

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West Lake is surrounded by many mountains which provide excellent hiking, but unfortunately in China the most interesting climbing routes have fallen victim to the people’s penchant for constructing ‘stairs’ wherever possible. As a result, I have avoided hiking, until now. When we set off, I was delighted to see that we did not actually ‘climb’ straight up. Instead, sections of stone/concrete steps, alternate with winding pathways, have been constructed throughout the hiking areas – I’m so glad it’s not all straight uphill! Many of the routes deliberately meander, ensuring climbers view the sights from all sides. Many rest areas ensure that people can sit back and catch their breath, or simply relax and enjoy the views. Early on during our climb, I was pleased to pass through some extensive bamboo forest before being treated to the sight of several small waterfalls, and what appeared to be fish ponds (although no fish could be seen). A little later on, we passed a tea house and a small pavilion. Many of the locals had already claimed the tables, sitting back chatting over tea, while others were exercising nearby: Tai Chi, Push-ups, Kung-Fu – you name it. A while later, we came upon a temple – I noticed a distinct quiet about the place. Many of the students didn’t want to enter (cover charge), but I have made a mental note to return again in the near future.

ANCIENT KILN – On one of my many free days off work, I decided to play tourist in Hangzhou. I had read about an ancient pottery kiln located just south of West Lake, so I decided to check it out. Reachable by the Y3 Bus, the Southern Song Dynasty Guan Kiln Museum is built right over the remains of Jiaotanxia Guan Kiln (1127-1279). I was fascinated to see what they have ‘dug up’. Although much of the kiln structure has fallen away over time, with the aid of an excellent video-reenactment, it was surprising to see how sophisticated the process was, back in the 11th and 12th centuries. Guan kilns were the official kilns which produced high-class chinaware for royalty – either for daily use or decoration. Supposedly over 8,000 Celadon (light green jade-like colour) ceramic and porcelain objects have been found and restored. Many are truly works of art, due to their extensive decoration and fine detail. Another highlight that day was my bus ride – the Y3 Bus route took me through several tea villages and tea hillsides where I caught many a glimpse of the farmers pinching the leaves for this year’s first harvest of Hangzhou’s famous Longjing tea! It was a very nice day indeed. Now, back to teaching!

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LANGUAGE – I may often give you the impression that it is easy for me to communicate on a daily basis, but actually it’s not. The other day I was in the mood for some Chinese dumplings, but when it came time to order, even my handwritten Chinese note couldn’t help me out. I had the name of the dish I wanted, but didn’t know how to order itcooked. I couldn’t say “boiled or steamed or fried”. I tried to motion to the cashier that I didn’t care how they were cooked, but that didn’t work. My frustration level on that particular day was rather high, so I simply gave up and headed home instead. Yes, it happens sometimes.

BAD HABITS – Littering has long been an established practice in China – locals have no concern for what lies outside their home – their homes are immaculate, but the streets are disgusting. But last week I was shocked to see a ‘no littering’ sign erected alongside the highway. It read as follows: Waste Disposing Prohibited. Hangzhou is making a great effort to introduce English signs into our community, or should I say, Chinglish?! What I don’t understand is why they obviously aren’t consulting with a native English speaker. But, hey, it’s a step in the right direction for sure! And Beijing is trying to ‘westernize’ everyone before the 2008 Olympics! They have started massive campaigns to educate/encourage people to stop spitting, littering, jumping the queue, obnoxious clearing of their throats, squatting children down to do their ‘business’ on the streets, in the stores, etc. (the list goes on!). I just think they’re trying to do too much in too short a time. Certainly, the younger generation will get on track, but you surely can’t expect a 60 year-old man to stop some of these habits when he’s been doing them all his life!