ChinaTeacher

I’m back in Hangzhou, a week early.  I shortened my trip to Cambodia from 4 weeks to 3 weeks.  Reason: To be honest, Cambodia cost much more than I expected. 

The guide books say that one can budget 20 USD per day.  You can get good basic accommodation for 8-10 USD and meals cost USD 3-5.  So, that’s okay.  But, everything else costs 1 USD – you need a tuk-tuk or a motorcycle guy to go anywhere (1 USD), a softdrink (1 USD), internet cafe (1 USD), so those bills slip through your fingers like grains of sand.  So, before the end of my ‘first’ day in Cambodia, I had already upped that figure to 30 USD. 

By the time I got to Siem Reap, I had to UP my budget to 50 USD per day (10 USD per day for the Temple pass, and 10 USD per day to hire a moto driver to take me to the temples – they aren’t exactly next door!). 

But, shortening my trip didn’t mean that I missed much.  I visited most of the places that were priorities for me.  I wouldn’t mind a return visit some time, to see some of the outlying areas in the northeast, such as Ratanakiri and Mordulkiri, but these are best seen in a small group, I think because there are few facilities out there.

PHOTOS

I was finally successful in Cambodia in downloading some photos to share with everyone.  But, I have TONS more to download!  Problem is, here in China, I sometimes run into problems (which I have done tonight).  I have two full CD’s full of temple pictures – maybe you don’t really want to see them after all!  But, when the internet cooperates, I will try to download some of the best ones for you.

CAMBODIA

Cambodia is by far the poorest country I have ever visited.  There are many things I loved about this country and many things I hated.  But, learnin what their people have gone through over the years has made me realize that I have no right to complain. 

Each and every day brings new landmine victims, despite the fact there has been no ‘war’ in Cambodia in years.  The Khmer Rouge invasion destroyed people’s bodies and minds for 4 years in the late 1970’s, and when the people tried to return to their former homes in the cities, they learned that the government had confiscated them and refused to give them back.  After 4 years of horror, the Cambodian people had to start over, again. 

After all this, it is difficult to imagine how they find the strength to keep going despite such hardships.  They have a resilience that is hard to deny, and that is what I admire most about these people. 

I can’t believe I did it, but I embarked on a 6 1/2 hour journey by bus all the way to Kratie, just to see the rare and elusive Irrawaddy River Dolphin!  It was well worth the trip.  I arrived in Kratie around 2pm, which actually provided enough time to hire a motordop, head out to the river and take a boat trip out to see the dolphins.  In fact, the boat ride itself was well worth it because it provided a birds-eye view of the local people and how they spend their time along the river.  For example, late in the afternoon, many of the local fishermen bring in their catch, and lots of children use this time to play around in the water (reminds me of my own childhood!)

Turns out, late afternoon is one of the best times to view the dolpins, plus, as I discovered, it is one of the best times to be on the mighty Mekong River!  The river has already spilled well over its banks, flooding the countryside.  It is the rainy season now, and it’s expected to continue until at least October.  In the meantime, the river extends well into the countryside, with trees and foliage immersed in the water – I don’t know how they can live until the waters recede in November!

We lucked out with our sightings of the dolphins.  I think we saw at least two different pods, of 4 to 5 dolphins each.  For some reason, however, I expected the river dolphins to be a smaller species.  In actual fact, these were quite large – at least 4-6 feet in length.  And they behaved more like small whales than dolphins.  We were able to locate them quickly because of the sounds they emit from their blow holes, just like whales.  But, they certainly weren’t leaping around like dolphins; they simply ‘glided’ through the water, like whales.  They were a wonderful sight, and simply amazing to realize that these dolphins are actually living in the Mekong River, and not the ocean!

My guide even invited me out that evening to ‘buy him dinner’ and experience a local Cambodian meal!  How could I refuse!  We drove out into the countryside a short distance and stopped in front of a rather large outdoor restaurant decorated in, of all things, Christmas Lights!  Cold beer is not on the menu in much of Cambodia – so beer with ice was my drink of choice on this evening.  We started with an appetizer of marinated beef (raw) which we dipped in a powerfully hot sauce with a strong taste of lime.  Accompanying the meat was a platter of raw vegetables and another dipping sauce.  Here I am in a foreign country, eating raw foods, out in the country, and drinking beer with ice in it!  All the warnings kept coming back to me – only eat what you can peel, wash, or cook and never eat the ice!  My driver told me not to worry, so I decided to trust him and settled down to enjoy my meal.  The waiter arrived at our table with a hotplate, and minutes later, we had a steaming pot of Cambodian soup broth boiling away, and platters of vegetables, noodles, and meats ready to pop into it for quick and easy cooking.  It was one of the most delicious meals I have ever eaten!  And, best of all, I never got sick!  Hallelujiah!!!

I hired a motodop the next day to take me out to the countryside where we visited a beautiful Cambodian temple (this one with over 100 columns – no one is quite sure why – I haven’t seen any temples built in this style elsewhere in Cambodia), and we hiked up a mountain to a monk retreat.  I met a few monks and nuns up there – they told my guide that they don’t see too many tourists up there, but they were quite happy to see me!  Storm clouds blew in overhead during our trip back to town, so when the skies opened and the rain hit, we were forced to seek shelter with a local family.  Apparently, it’s quite common, and expected, for one to seek shelter at people’s homes during such storms.  Our hosts were very kind and invited me in.  The daughter wasn’t quite sure what to make of me, but her mother proudly showed me around their new home.  Most Cambodian homes are extremely sparse in terms of furnishings.  No tables, chairs, nothing.  Some shelves in the corner held a variety of clothing items; the kitchen area consisted of a firepit and pots hanging on the wall – that was pretty much it.  Everyone seems to sleep on mats on the floor at night, but during the day, the space is completely empty, because they usually spend their time ‘under’ their homes, down on the ground, to escape the heat.  There, they have erected hammocks and built bamboo platforms to sit on, eat, and relax.  I don’t have a picture of that house, but the one above is similar to what most people do consider ‘home’ in Cambodia.
     

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