gone south

Well, we reached our furthest latitude south at 7 degrees & 25 minutes at the tip of the Auzero Peninsula. I´m sure those of you in VT are tired of hearing it, but the beaches here are too fine! We saw a photo from home that seemed to show 3 - 4 ft of snow; we live in shorts, sometimes flips & a shirt - in & out of the Pacific all day. It´s quite a treat to watch the sun rise out of the ocean, a hard concept to grasp as we´re supposed to be on the west coast. Panama runs east - west so our sense of direction is all turned around.
We took a ride up into the mountains to El Valle, a market town in a high valley. The temperature was cool though the sun is still very hot. The plants up high are very different - lots of flowers & vegetables, clear mountain streams, a nice break from the heat of the coast.
The panamerican highway is quite different here tha Costa Rica, it actually looks like a highway! The surface is either brand new or horrible, often side by side in 2 lanes. They also run radar to enforce speed limits, much to Craig´s chagrin. He knew he´d picked up some bad driving habits, but though in would be the states before he had to revise the way he drives. Now after tickets in CR, Nic & Panama - we´re model citizens on the road.
We crossed the canal and drove north to the caribbean just to cross the country from sea to sea in a day. Much different up there as it rains a lot, very humid, and a more poverty striken area. So back to Playa Santa Clara to gear up for the run to Costa Rica.
Panama is a very comfortable place for us. Feels very safe, prices are cheap and we´ve met several interesting travelers, mostly from Europe, doing the same kind of trip. While internet is available, we can´t find wifi, so photos will have to wait.

cheers to all, posted Rio Hato, Panama

Returning to Granada for the third time was just as nice as the first. It’s a remarkable town with a colonial segment, perched on the shore of Lake Nicaragua, the largest in the country.From the town plaza one is looking at the lake in one direction and the volcano in another. It is entirely possible to tour the volcano and the coffee plantations on the way to the top in the morning and then boat around the tiny islands in the lake in the aftenoon.  Did I mention the volcano crater lake just outside of town? Swimming while being goosed by lava rocks of varying sizes is quite an experience.

We were fortunate to find friends from home in residence at the condos that they built last year. These beautiful units are within walking distance of the plaza and we enjoyed every moment of the conveniences and the great company.

Around the 18th we crossed into Costa Rica and several surprises.  There is only one crossing from Nicaragua and so we were prepared for a lenghty ordeal but not a nightmare. Exiting Nicaragua was not so bad but immigration and customs on the C.R. side was horrendous. There must have must have been a half mile of trucks waiting although this in itself does not necessarily affect us but the line of tourist buses did. Everyone needs to go through individually and there was only a couple of agents working. Consequently, several busloads of folks were standing in full sun in a sharp gravel lot in a snake line that was barely moving. After 1 hr. we had only moved several yards and this procedure did not even take into account the vehicle part. At any rate, 1 hr. later, mucho dineros lighter due to “assistance” we were on our way feeling somewhat resentful and duped. It’s been a few years since we were last here and things change, of course but still it is quite a contrast to see how expensive everything is and how relatively affluent it appears. We managed to find a some new spots out on the Nicoya Penninsula as well as visit some favorites. Sticker shock still reigns and the added insult of a trumpted up traffic ticket that sights the van as either being too strong or having too much outside cargo or passing on a curve- take your pick.

And so Costa Rica is not high on our list of favorites and so we will probably head on towards Panama tomorrow, making a few stops along the way. Still so much to see.

Well, it finally happened. After innumerable stops for security checks in every country so far, the real mckoy “mordita” occurred this morning. We’d become somewhat casual about producing copies of requested documents, knowing that police refusal to give back papers without a “present” is common and since, what-the heck-it’s only a copy, has worked thus far, we were taken by surprise when it ended up costing roughly $25 US ( that’s a lot of dinero here). I was so mad, I was tempted to tell the official crook, as he so neatly folded the bill so noone could see it, that he had his cheap US nubby gloves on backwards.

The up note; a pesky eye infection was quickly attended to by a stop in at the local pharmacy where very professional folks diagnos and dispense antibiotics. The cost of $.80US had me slapping my thigh in delight.

New Year’s Eve/New Year

Santa Ana, just west of La Ceiba, Honduras was our host just prior to the Eve, staying at an “eco-lodge” ( these are all over and the term is used loosely) in this case a German who is married to an Honduran woman, bought some property that runs up the mountain, bordered  by a beautiful river. Our intent to go to the Bay Islands for New Year was dashed after a bus ride into Ceiba, a taxi to the ferry , just to find out that due to the holiday they had changed the schedule; no ferry until late in the day. Logistically, this made no sense for us so we returned to Bertie’s, hiked to over-the -head swimming holes on the rio, and then spent the evening with another bizarre cast of expat characters from Germany and the US.

The following day we headed to Trujillo, the last stopping point on the Carib in Honduras before the Mosquito Coast ( no place for travelers, or others for that matter since it is drug country that extends into Nicaragua). Heavy rains for the last few months have caused havoc on the roads and in this case, just outside of our destination we came on a washed out bridge and needed to detour through knee-deep mud roads through palm oil plantations for an hour and a half. Lucky for us, there was a yellow ribbon on our side of the bridge as warning since there were no detours signs. Apparently this precaution was brand new, before that there was no warning at all- further cementing the fact that we NEVER DRIVE AT NIGHT HERE.

At any rate, the end of the world is glorious. The endless stretch of beach is backed by cloud capped mountains. The family run establishment also has a farm in the same location. Cows and horses are somewhat separated but often are herded right through the dining area.

This is Garifuna area with tiny villages scattered in the hills. Yesterday, thanks to the neighbor from Vermont!, we were told of one just up the road and so we headed up there in the morning. Maybe a dozen huts up and over a hill. An invitation to see a woman’s home, found us sitting on her porch with the entire family trying to answer all of their questions.  One would think that we had just returned from a long journey judging from the welcoming hugs from Gramma and the groups of giggling kids that ran out to greet us. We left with gifts of jade.

Largo Yojoa , the largest lake in Honduras was the next stop. The roads were terrific and the lake very pretty.The area going in was picture perfect farmland growing corn,pineapple, sugar cane and veggies on rolling hills with one side of the lake rimmed with larger peaks.

It’s hard to get used to seeing so much fresh and salt water with little to no boat traffic. In this case, the once famous fishing grounds have been fished out but they now are farming tilapia in the lake. The only boats we saw were dugout canoes and touring lanchas. We camped in an orange grove on a finca that seems to be a favorite excursion for locals. A dozen or so cars and pick-ups delivered tons of folks-  really is slap stick to see how many people can pile out of a vehicle. They have a blast all day and then left the place to us. …crowds have not yet been our problem.  Weekends are the only time that we really see numbers of folks where we camp.

Then the other shoe dropped. Both of us got quite ill for a few days so things slowed done a bit.

NICARAGUA

We are now in Esteli, a nice medium size town surrounded by a couple of very large reserves and cooperatives. It also happens to host several international aid groups and initiatives and so it seems to have lots going on.  Still in the hills so the temperatures at night get chilly and during the day, the sun is really hot but the shade is pleasant-perfect Vt. Day ( on a good one).

Esteli was a stronghold for the Sandinistas during the conflict, losing many, many men, women and children. We visited a one-room gallery, dim-light and very moving.

We entered Honduras a couple of days ago, by Copan ruins. The last of the Mayan sites that we’ll see on this go round. We met a group of Americans who were riding motor cycles from Peru to VA, USA as a fund raiser. Interesting to chat with them as we waited for our car permit. At our camping spot right across from the ruins, we met a young Australian woman riding her bicycle to Costa Rica. Her spanish was great and we ended up playing cards with her and the local kids by the campfire. Was really a unique time. So far the border crossings have been pretty mellow, though at the Guatemala border - we crossed into a 1 lane bridge & mud streets.
We thought we were used to driving CA by now, but we’re at a whole new level of craziness! The roads are pretty good but the drivers are flipin nuts, nothing gets the heart racing like going into an uphill corner and seeing a car in your lane coming at you, with no place to bail out. So far they always pull back just in time. We rode through some incredible mountain scenery, some times jungle then pine highlands that look like the american west. After seeing sign warning of landslides ahead - they mean RIGHT ahead; some are from above and block part of the road, others are where the road was under cut and slid down the hill. Just gone!
Last night we pulled into a place hoping to camp for the night. Oh we don´t do that anymore they said. However, we live just down the road, why don´t you camp in our yard! Another night of sleeping to the sound of surf. After a day of laundry & re-suppling, we´ll head to La Ceiba and a boat ride to the Bay islands for snorkeling. When we can find wifi again we´ll post photos. From all we hear - we´re glad to not be in VT weather!

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU ALL!

posted in Tela internet cafe.

  We have finally figured out how to post photos so that you can click on them to see full size. ALSO- go to right side of page and under Blogroll, click on “a look at our trip photos” to go to a web album of pictures.

Well, it’s raining like crazy but it’s warm and beautiful here. We are presently at a somewhat ecolocation that is just wonderful; a central building with kitchen and lots of porch space with tables and hammocks, then there are sections that have treehouses for rent and small cabinas. A 5 min. walk leads through their gardens and farm animals to a small lagoon with crystal clear water for swimming. Will add photos after the rain.

Guatamala so far has won our hearts. The country is spectacularly beautiful (imagine being an ant traveling a road that runs through meringue hills. Tons of pointy green hills that are sometimes under cultivation and sometimes dotted with livestock), the people very warm and they speak a version of spanish that is slow and precise making us feel like we know more than we do.

Seems we are zooming through but we expect to spend lots more time on the return trip in the western highlands.

Just a short note to wish all a merry Chistmas from Flores, Guat. Always wondered what it would be like in warm climate and there is lots to like! After a day in Tikal we stopped by the lake before heading south to Rio Dulce. Hot some rain every day, headed for river trip the Honduras. More later w/photos when we can get back online.

cheers
posted in Flores internet cafe, 12/24

Placentia, BZ.

Moved on down the coast, to the tip of a peninsula, to a town call Placentia.  22mi. of unpaved, bumpy road but we had hitchhikers with us (who could not get seats on the bus) and that helped pass the time as it took a 1.5 hrs. Belize has 3 main roads that are in good condition, and then the alternate roads quickly become the usual gravel, van size pot holes, “pedestrian bumps” at every village- and they are only a couple of kilometers apart and the ever present dog crossings.

The road leading in is under construction meaning that the base is there but no asphalt and the condition of the road varies according to the last grading. Due to this and the increasing popularity ( in non hurricane seasons) it appears to be the beginning of an end to a sleepy village populated by those unconcerned with road conditions, quite reminiscent of Provincetown or tiny town in Fla.keys.  Water is visible on both sides of the road and in between there is now huge mangrove area being filled, canal building and trophy houses going up along side of the for sale signs of small businesses. That being said, the point of Placencia is a tiny town with one road and a series of sidewalks that meander through the brightly painted houses. Lots of tourists but we managed to find a place to camp within walking distance of town on a perfect beach.  12 yr. old boys seem to be our attraction- Andy from next door joined Craig in the early morning and was present for the landing of a big “yellow jack”.  He was so pleased having never used a rod; he is now a firm believer in the power. We left him a sinker to use on his hand line but I think he would have preferred the rod.

Well, we did end up with new neighbor last night; a couple came in on kayaks after spending 9 days paddling around the cayes after parking their van in Dangriga. Needless to say, they also were from Quebec. By and large, the travelers that we meet are from Canada, not the US.- hmmm……

English, Spanish, Creole and Garifur are all spoken in the melting pot.

Just a last minute update on drinking here: Beliken Stout & Caribbean White rum are the beverages of choice in Belize. Kind of helps dull the ant bites at bedtime!

Posted from San Ingnacio campground WIFI.

BELIZE

Following an interesting border crossing – the end result being a perfunctory search due to our patience in waiting for 1.5 hr. for the women to find a new permit book- we stopped briefly in Corozal to picnic beside the water and then headed to Lamamai.  This proved to be trial for us and the van over 37 mi. of unpaved minefield like roads, down the tiniest of roads into Indian Village and the ruins themselves. A truly magical time! Once again, we had the entire site to ourselves, including howler monkeys, toucans,blue butterflies and spectacular mayan buildings, not to mention the park-like setting on a large lagoon.  In some respects we are reaping the few benefits of the global financial situation.

Come evening a small truck overloaded with kids arrived to set up tents. They were friends from “college” in Orange Walk ( 2 being locals from the village) celebrating the end of the semester. This was indeed the best part of the stay.  Included in the group was a young mayan woman who came along because she had a truck and so that her daughter who had a broken leg due to a soccer accident could come along. We shared food, fished from the dock and spent time just chatting with them. I particularly had a great evening with Edna who was named Agriculture Woman of the Year 2005-an enlightening time.

Leaving there, we spent the night in a resort parking lot on the Belize River leaving early in the morning to check out the Belize Zoo and a sister research station.  Then we have worked our way south along the spectacular Hummingbird Highway arriving in Dangriga just in time for the evening soccer session in the park at waters edge. Youngsters first followed by the adult game under some streetlights but not nearly enough to see well as they played way into the dark. Calvin, my new best 12 yr. old buddy brought us oranges and johnnycakes from his aunties in exchange for his “Christmas present” of a soccer patch and some pens.  We had heard that you could park right there but a couple of local women came by to suggest otherwise and so we moved into a vacant lot adjacent to one of their houses. Seems times have changed.