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Adios Peru!

Wednesday, December 7th, 2005

I’m pretty sure I now hold the honor of being the first person to ever have listened to Archer Prewitt on Lake Titicaca. That was how I intended to start out my next blog entry, when I still owned my iPod. Instead it starts out like this…

What do you do for a family who takes you in to their home in a strange country when you’ve been robbed of (almost) everything you own? By everything I mean money, passport, credit cards, even your sunglasses. I’m really asking because this is what happened to me 30 minutes after I arrived in Lima. Comments are VERY welcome on this subject.

Maybe I was asking for it the way I named my blog.

I met my airport pickup at baggage claim. I asked him for the name of the hotel he represented, checked his ID to make sure he wasn’t some random person and got in the cab. We were riding along talking about Fujimori and how Lima is actually a safe city. Then, stopped at a red light, a man approached my window and tapped. He broke the window out with his fist and grabbed my backpack out of my lap. I was actually holding it – it wasn’t on the seat beside me or anything. I tried to hold on, but its hard when you’re covered in glass and don’t want to cut your arms to shreads. TRAVLERS BEWARE. This is apparently not uncommon. When I went to the embassy the next day and told them I was robbed leaving the airport, they immediately guessed what happened. Put your bags under the seat or under your feet and sit in the front next to the driver. If I would have had this information, I would have just arrived home from Rio and would have had an excellent tan. Instead, I came home early and ate a Milky Way for dinner because I couldn’t afford a real meal.

I’ve been poor before. The middle class American version of poor, which means I lived off Ramen noodles and tortillas with butter. Its a whole different poor to live off someone’s charity and not even own a toothbrush. Sadly, its an even worse poor that causes crimes like this to happen. I can’t imagine being in a place in life where causing another person that much grief is justified by my own circumstances. I’m not saying I’m not REALLY angry. I’ve been looking for a mercinary to go take care of that guy :). I’m also a little mad at the cab driver because he didn’t do anything. I know he felt bad though, you could see it.

I do know that if Ursula, Stephanie, Sophia, Johnathan, Roberta or Miguel ever need a kidney then I have a spare. If it weren’t for those people, I would have been camped out outside of the embassy waiting for them to open the next day. I was left with only 11 soles. I stayed in their home, they fed me, they provided me with an escort to run my errands (embassy, re-issue travlers checks, change plane ticket, etc.), provided an armed guard back to the airport (the husband was packing), took me on a tour of the city, and even gave me $20.00 to make it back to the States on. And they wont let me repay them. The only thing I can think of to give them are St. Christophers (the patron saint of travelers). They were my saints while I was there. I will never forget what they taught me.

I regret not being able to continue my trip. But it was just stuff, and I probably learned more about human kindness in 3 days than I ever would have in the rest of my life.

I thought for about an hour that I was finished with traveling, especially by myself. But if I did that, that would mean the bad guy wins. I’m not a stupid girl, I’m really pretty cautious. It was just lack of information. I hope this prevents someone else from dealing with the same thing. I don’t want to discourage anyone from visiting Lima. It really did seem like an amazing city. Just do your homework first.

Anyway, this is my last entry. Happy Travels to all! Next year I’m off to Australia where I probably wont look like such a tourist. That should help.

Puno

Wednesday, November 30th, 2005

I must have pissed the Inca off somehow, because after my last entry I got REALLY sick. According to my Lonely Planet guide, I think I had Cholera. Not really, but I am taking antibiotics and missed a whole day of tourist stuff because I was in bed. My hotel was great – they took me to the pharmacy and let me stay until I went to the airport (about 5 hours after checkout time).

If crucifixes on the side of the road mean the same thing in Peru as they do in America, there are a lot of ghosts walking the highway between Juliaca and Puno. I got here night before last and watched silly crime dramas on the english speaking chanel because I still thought I was dying. I found out I wouldnt be able to spend the night on an island because my flight leaves too early for me to get back. I thought it was funny that the road was a toll road. One official toll when you enter the highway, and a second not so kosher toll once you get to Puno. They have to make their money somehow.

Yesterday I went to Uros (the floating islands) and Taquille (another island in Lake Titicaca). It was well worth the whole $12 for the full day trip. I found out an outsider can visit Taquille, but cant buy a house or open a business on the island. I guess thats how theyve preserved their culture (besided the kids begging for “un sole” for a picture). The Uros are really amazing. Im afraid theyre ruined because of the tourism industry, but Im really glad I got to go. Both nights here I ate in a place recommended by the hotel. Im not going to take any more chances with the comida.

I noticed when I went white water rafting that the people in the small villages were dressed in traditional clothing. Ive seen the pictures, but thought it was just for tourists benefit. Its actually real. People were leading their donkeys and herding their sheep, which was amazing.

Today I was supposed to go to some ruins between here and Juliaca but there is some kind of government protest going on so I couldnt. I am going to be able to get back to the airport, but we have to take the long way. Im not sure what were avoiding, but Im glad my hotel arranged the transfer for me. I went on a short city tour and finally did some shopping. I know some people live to haggle with vendors in the markets, but thats not really my thing. I have got some cool stuff, though. Right now Im avoiding the square, because I think there is some kind of protest going on.

Im sure youre all suprised to hear the internet access is a bit sketchy in the Andes :). This is taking forever! I leave for Lima in about 30 min. so Ill catch up later.

Mas Cuzco

Sunday, November 27th, 2005
Stuff I forgot last time: Puerto Maldondo looks just like Thailand, except in Spanish. They even have tuk tuks, but they call them taxi chulos. Also, Visa is widely accepted here but Mastercard is not. Just ... [Continue reading this entry]

Cuzco City

Friday, November 25th, 2005
If I didnt know any better, I would think "Madre de Dios" means "muddy river" in English (it really means "mother of the gods"). Really, I made it to the rainforest yesterday and it was beautiful. But it ... [Continue reading this entry]

Finally Here!

Wednesday, November 23rd, 2005
The greatest thing that can happen to a person in the world (or above the world, anyway) is to get the whole row by yourself on a flight. Thats exactly what happened during our "short" six and a half ... [Continue reading this entry]

18 Hours!

Tuesday, November 22nd, 2005
I'm finally excited!! We told my nephew I'm going to the rainforest and he asked me if I would bring him back a pet from Pet Smart. I'm not sure he gets it. :)

One more week!!

Tuesday, November 15th, 2005
Wow! Its getting close to time to go! I think I've done most of what I have to do. The biggest challege is going to be packing this weekend. As most of you know, there is ... [Continue reading this entry]

Monday, September 19th, 2005
Okay, I'm being super ambitious and starting my blog now for a trip I'm taking to South America in November. I'm not really what you would call organized, so getting ready to take a trip on my own has ... [Continue reading this entry]