Route 40 Argentina

Lighthouses found in Buenos Aires and ……

admin — Sun, 14 Jan 2007 18:59:02 +0000

Lighthouses found in Buenos Aires and along the Argentinean Coastline by the way i’m working on this documentary idea ………

Argentina’s architecture is one of its finest artistic and more evidentially cultural expressions. No wonder its capital city, Buenos Aires, was christened The Paris of South America, for its outstanding aesthetic resemblance in terms of style and quality.
Early in the 20^th century, when Argentina was celebrating its centennial and rehabbing the country’s major cities welcoming Modern times into their landscape as well as their own culture, Europe was going through a turmoil of political and economical growth and change. Back then London, Paris, Berlin and Rome were the capitals of style, homes to aesthetic masterminds and developers; however there was not much room for upcoming artists creating in the edge of technique and rule. Mario Palanti, Calvo, Jacobs and Gimenez, and Eduardo Le Monnier are just some of the brilliant men who found in Buenos Aires an immense blank canvass in which to portray their unique aesthetic vision with a twist.
Mario Palanti was the man behind one of Mayo Av finest constructions: The Barolo Palace. The palace, it is said to be an homage Dante´s Latin geniality, a synthesis of the basic conceptions within the Divine Comedy. Displayed following the directions of the Southern Cross, the building rises from the ground becoming a laic temple that stands upon the ascension path for souls. Many experts assure that the building commemorates the 6^th Centennial of Dante’s revelation. That’s why the building’s definitions are understood in synchrony with Dante’s Divine Comedy. Both –the poem’s and the building’s division is in three; there are nine hell hierarchies, as well as the amount of access vaults representing the initiation steps –there are phrases in Latin above each of them explaining them. The purgatory is divided in seven, as well as Palanti’s tower. The nine divisions of Heaven are represented in the outstanding 300,000 voltaic power bulbs lighthouse, above which it’s the Southern Cross, the entrance to heaven, that can be clearly seen during the first days of June around 7:45 PM, lined up to the Palace’s coordinates. And of course, 100 are the cantos and 100 are the meters the building rises from the ground. Most of the cantos are divided into seven or twenty two stanzas, each floor is divided in seven modules on the front and twenty two office modules and the total height of the building is divided into twenty two floors: fourteen basic stories, seven in the tower, plus the lighthouse.
In 1925 Calvo, Jacobs and Gimenez Gimenez together with the Benecich brothers’ construction company brought the Mihanovich Tower into life. An outstanding building of 80 meters above the ground, one of the highest in the country and one of the most important concrete ones in the world back then. Its name’s origin is of course in honor of his owner, Mr. Mihanovich, chairman of one of Argentina’s most important naval companies; he ordered the construction of this fantastic tower, where he’ll had his offices at the top. The building rises from the ground to create the illusion of being a terrene lighthouse, facing the docks of Buenos Aires, the light at the top guides not the ships but the immigrants into the heart of the city. The view of this lighthouse-like tower was, and still is, astonishing, as one witnesses the entrance and departure of ships to and from Buenos Aires.
This architectonic masterpiece expresses its greatness through means of a language that emphasizes the combination of classical elements and somewhat French style ornamentation with a terrific art deco finishing touch atop the tower escalated pyramid.
The construction was brilliant, but times changed and then Mihanovich moved its offices. The tower remained as Immigrant’s hotel, and then it stood as a once brilliant production then left into the darkness of oblivion. It took over 70 years for someone to recover the tower from forget and deterioration. It was in 2000 when the Accor hotel group bought the building and began to work on its restoration and update to come up with a brilliant hotel that combines the classic restored building with a magnificent top of the top inside, conditioned to provide its visitors with the latest technology and comfort, the famous and gorgeous Sofitel. Nowadays Sofitel Hotel, 841/849 Arroyo St is a luxurious five star carefully restored landmark hotel building dated form 1929 that resembles a lighthouse casting light over the city. The neoclassic splendor of its outside is perfectly blend with a contemporary design and Art Deco interior.
The oldest of the buildings in this article is the one created by the French architect Eduard Le Monnier in 1917. This is the central house of the Argentine Yacht Club at the intersection of Costanera Sur Av and Viamonte St. The club was created in 1883 by a group of local enthusiasts of yachting, and a couple of decades latter they moved to Le Monnier’s Art Deco ode to the sea. The French architect designed the club house as a lighthouse building that can be located at Latitude 34° 35′ 48″ S - Longitude 58° 21′ 48″ W.
Featuring an unquestionable maritime feel, the external lines of this building show an amazing blend between the conceptual mast-lighthouse that is the building’s tower of an unquestionable art deco style. The building evolves from the tower onwards to the South East. The encounter between the sea/nature and the human creation ship/lighthouse that was captivated by the architect is also evident in the construction’s ceiling that emulates the shape of a wave and the sail of a ship, atop a semi circular two story construction facing the North West area of the River Plate. Yet one other wing stretches towards the semi circular levee.
Functional and sophisticated this building was a preview into the future of style, lines and design. And as such it has remained a trademark of the Argentine Architecture.
Following the River Plate to the point it meets with the Atlantic Ocean is our last architectural beauty: the Punta Medanos lighthouse. Located in a cape side area first discovered by Magellan in 1520, during one of his many explorative expeditions through the Argentinean coast down to Tierra del Fuego, and it was such the impact its beauty had on them that they include outstanding remarks about it on their journals. This is a very special and cherished construction. It was built in France and transported and settled in Argentina between 1892 and 1893. The main body of the building is a cylinder. One can access the light room walking up the 298 steps. The lighthouse is located 36°53’ south 56°40’48’’ W, six miles north from Punta Medanos and 500 meters from the high tide line.
This is just an incredible example of a beautiful lighthouse in one astonishing scenario of beauty.
In spite of the fact that the architect remains unknown, this building stands for the beginning of a durable relationship between Europe and Argentina in terms of style, sophistication and aesthetic approach to life.
Two are the features shared by these buildings and constructions, one being the European strong aesthetic influence that we’ve stated previously; and the other, being the marriage between the Architecture and the Sea. The fact that all these buildings have been conceived as architectural lighthouses and a plus, is what has brought them together in this conceptual project. We have began to work on the research of their history and stories a while ago and since then have found a number of amazing stories to tell. That’s how we’ve come to begin to develop our documentary on Art and Light. The first part is fully dedicated to these lighthouse buildings, their significance and their cultural importance.
Such has been the impact these stories have had on us that we’ve began to share the preview and production process with some collector friends deeply attached to the social and cultural value of lighthouses.
The result has been not only a tremendous input into developing this documentary –which we’ll be sharing with you all in short term- but also to create a unique lighthouse tour guided by the initial concept of ART AND LIGHT.

Bob Frassinetti, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Before leaving Buenos Aires you could see several buildings and other places of interest

admin — Sun, 14 Jan 2007 18:27:57 +0000

The Buenos Aires version of the Empire State Building is the Kavanagh building.
Built at the intersection of the posh Florida and San Martin streets, facing the gorgeous Retiro Park, this construction carried on by Sanchez, Lagos and De la Torre is an Ode to Modern times. This building was Latin America’s first skyscraper, and the tallest concrete built construction for several decades.
The project of building a massive Art Deco homage came from the wealthy society woman Corina Kavanagh, daughter of an Argentine magnate. When embarking in the project, Ms Kavanagh sold all her assets and invested in a visionary project, hoping to make an aesthetic statement in the city of the good airs. And there’s no doubt she achieved it, even in a way she might have never dreamt of. The building has become one of Buenos Aires trademark constructions, an aesthetic reference, and of course a coveted, sought after investment.
Built in 1936, this rent controlled condo offered its inhabitants the finest of the world’s comfort cultural and technological wise. The idea of assuring the owners a great variety of “hanging gardens” landscaped in the many terraces at different heights and orientations, adds a magnificent appeal.

Over half a century has gone by since The Kavanagh was built, and this architectural and cultural protected historical building is still charming locals and foreigners from around the globe. There’s no greater and profitable cultural architectural investment in the city than acquiring your BA home at the Kavanagh.
Whether it’s easy and inexpensive… well, there’s no doubt that neither is really and option. Finding an owner willing to sell their property at the Kavanagh is an intelligence task, however, when found it’s deeply rewarding.
Price wise, while most properties in Buenos Aires are based on a sq meter cost calculation, the Kavanagh does not adjust that much into that valuating modality.

Last trip along Route 40 North of Argentina

admin — Sun, 14 Jan 2007 17:31:03 +0000

Last year this time we where up North along Route 40 Argentina, here are some details on our trip ……

……..so we hit the road in mid January for a wonderful adventure… We decided we were going to stay in traditional and magical hotels, those that are truthfully local with an extra charm. I christened them Cheap hotels, inexpensive but wonderful small inns with the true local feel and way of life, artistic and simple (the key to amazing)…

Buenos Aires- San Juan was our first section, whilst not thru the route 40, for it doesn’t reach the Atlantic coast region; we were on our way towards the Northern section of our Route 40 Adventure.

On January 15 2006, we hit the road. After adjusting last minute issues regarding work and house care we finished loading the car and hit Santa Fe Avenue towards the main highway taking us out of Buenos Aires. Filled with happiness and emotion, we were on our way already!

We knew that this first trip was the longest, so we bought some sodas, candies and a super box of sandwiches for the road. Those are not just any regular sandwich; these are special Argentine ones, made out of a very thin bread loaf, ham, cheese and any extra ingredient of your desire, olives, lettuce, tomato, peppers, salami, palm hearts, tuna… you name it, they have it.

Heading out of Buenos Aires we took the route 8 and went thru the provinces of Santa Fe and Cordoba towards San Luis. We traveled nearly 800 km until Merlo, a sweet small town known for its wonderful mellow climate, fabulous landscapes and great sights. Our initial plans to stay overnight in Merlo were frustrated by the fact that the town was packed. We thought we will visit this sweet town some other time, this trip was all about the route 40… We were filled with positive energy, our wonderful trip was starting, hence we understood this as a “meant to be sign”. We hit the road immediately towards the magical San Juan thru route 20 –home to the Moon Valley and many wonderful natural sights-.

We arrived late in the evening to a small inn in Quines, the owner was lovely. It was late at night but she arranged us a sweet room and a pleasant dinner. Enjoying the stars and the sweet air while eating dinner we met our first road friends two bright Danishes –mother and son- who were traveling thru Argentina on a super motorbike.

A wonderful conversation kept us busy that night. We then rested… The next morning, under a bright blue sky we headed towards far more northern destinations. We arrived at noon to San Jose de Jachal. A charming small town lost in time, just a few couple of blocks and adobe brick antique houses standing by the marvelous landscape welcomed us quiet and empty: it’s siesta time and every soul takes time to rest under the shade of trees or the comfort of their beds. Latter in the afternoon, when the raving sun begins to hide behind the mountains the village dwellers slowly begin to populate the streets once again.

We stayed at another interesting lodge; the cute San Martin hotel was our home for that night.

As the sun goes down and the stars begin to shine brightly in the clear sky we head to a local pub for a cold beer and peanuts –the Argentine equivalent to the Irish popcorn-. It was time for dinner a true northern “asado” was waiting for us; it was good! We invited an American couple to join us for dinner. Our new friends were also traveling to Talampaya in the morning so we shared information, tips and life stories.

Early the next morning we head to the wonderful Talampaya in La Rioja. This fabulous breathtaking location has been declared humanity’s patrimony by the UNESCO… and they are right! It’s wonderful.

The road throughout the mountains until Villa Union is gorgeous. Shallow rivers, rock tunnels and very little vegetation combine creating a spectacular scene.

We arrive to Pircas Negras hotel, were we just take a minute to organize our stuff and head towards the wonderful National Park of Talampaya.

Oh my God, this is a breathtaking place! Immense red stone walls that have been carefully crafted by the millenary wind stand upon us as superb Natural Monuments. We go inside the park with the company of a specialized tour guide and a couple of fellow travelers from around the globe that go as speechless as we do.

The scenery is breathtaking; we’re touched in our souls by this wonderful place.

At night, another fabulous experience would round up a fantastic day… dinner at Los Sauces delights our palate with a simple but delightful “cabrito asado”.

The next stop in our adventure is Tucuman. We drive in 10 hours through 3 provinces. The leftover water mirrors left by the day’s before rain reflect the rich red mountains and earth of La Rioja. Once in Catamarca province, the colors will turn into soft beiges… all throughout Chilecito, Londres, Belen and Santa Maria the main stops along the road we finally arrive to the magical route 40!

A drive along a fabulous scenario will finally lead us to our destination: the Quilmes Indians ruins; the remains of a strong and legendary culture that was the last and toughest conquest for the Spanish conquerors. The place is imponent, their history and culture are outstanding, and we’re astonished by their craftsmanship.

That night we’ll spend it in the sophisticated and charming Quilmes Hotel, just outside the ruins.

A day around the Quilmes ruins area was wonderful. Lunch at a typical local place, sightseeing, talking to the locals and enjoying their way of life was very interesting. In the afternoon, when the sun was shining to its most we headed back to the Quilmes hotel for a refreshing swim in their beautiful-mountain surrounded pool.

Cafayate was a wonderful surprise, the lovely location, the great nearby vineyards and the superb Killia Hospedaje. The owner had turned her lovely traditional house into a nice lodge.

The route takes us higher above the sea level at this point, nearly 2,000 meters, wow! What a rush of adrenaline.

A must when in Cafayate is the town’s own invention: Torrontes wine ice cream. A great surprise to the palate and the senses, that is best enjoyed after a good local meal. At night we enjoyed a pleasant evening with Marie France and Jean, two kind friends we met from Lyon, France. Long conversations in wonderful sights have become a pleasant constant in our journey.

As the sun began to shine illuminating the colorful mountains of this southern Salta town, we hit the route 40 once again, driving from Cafayate to the charming town of Cachi, a lost in time Colonial house place of a great positive energy.

The roads are rough at this point, so we had to go slowly along the rocky pathway. The fact that the scenario surrounding the route is so astonishingly beautiful is a fabulous plus for those long rides. It looks like it has been carefully planed for us adventure riders to have a wonderful experience driving throughout the marvelous route 40. The sights along the road have been christened the Quebrada de las Flechas –Broken of the Arrows- , for the design motives the wind had carved throughout the years in the heavy stone walls.

Passing thru Seclantas and El Colte, two charming locations were hand made weavings and traditional handcrafts are fabulous.

We then accidentally discovered a superlative boutique hotel along the road. Finca Colome is a marvelous place, the only altitude vineyard and winery owned by Mr. Hess, a Swiss man who created sophisticated, luxury and exclusive lodge.

In the days to come, route 40 will keep surprising us with its hidden treasures and natural surrounding beauties.

A few miles north from the altitude winery we discovered yet another great place: Estancia La Paya. Owned by a charming woman who’s a historian and anthropologist, and family run, this place was our place to be in, simple and cool, run by bright and interesting people.

Cachi is outstanding, simple yet wonderful, small in size but big in spiritual and aesthetic terms. It stole our heart. We definitely must come back. But now, the route calls upon our souls and bodies. Climbing up to 3,200 meters ofver the sea level, the last direct path of route 40 runs along a majestic natural scenario towards La Poma. The area’s roughness and bright reds go turning rich and fertile as we get closer to the Bishop’s Slope.

The route 40 was impossible at this point due to a heavy rain that had occurred the day before, so we too route 33 towards Salta the Beautiful –as it’s known the province capital city because of its beauty-. Our final destination was St Anthony of Copper, the final destination of the train of the clouds and an inhospitable town.

The road once again leads us to paradise in earth: the house of Jasmines. This amazing hotel is owned by Robert Duvall and his Argentine wife. Oh my god! The place is gorgeous, it smells like roses and jasmines; the room is terrific, a gorgeous bed and a tulle curtains around it, marvelous huge windows offering a great park view. A superlative swimming pool overlooking the river and nearby mountains… Several living room areas and a marvelous atmosphere of cordiality and great service are the final touches to this heavenly hotel.

Our dinner that night was delightful. The chef had made a warm salad with chicken, greens champignons and avocado; several home made dips and humus to enjoy with warm bred, tenderloin T-bone steak with glazed onions; and a wonderful cold chocolate cake for dessert was the perfect ribbon like finish for our stay. Breakfast was as wonderful as dinner, and a perfect start for our day journey to San Antonio de Los Cobres in the limit between Salta and Jujuy provinces.

St Anthony was interesting, the viaduct and the town were our main day features. The road trip however was as it had been all along the road, amazing. As we kept on climbing towards the clouds, at 4,000 meters over the sea level, the landscape around us kept on surprising us gladly.

This was our last stop along the route 40. Filled with joy and emotion we had accomplished not only the journey but also a rewarding inner feeling of completeness, so rare in these modern days. Following the Inca sun paths the next days will be also impressive and rewarding. The Humahuaca Break was our last destination. We started in Purmamarca, a gorgeous little town nearby route 52. Four blocks conform the town’s center and main plaza, a church and a couple of crafts-stores complete the scenario enriched by the background image of the Seven Color Mountain.

We stayed at the Manatial del Silencio, Silence Springs, enjoyed delightful meals at Los Morteros –The Morters- restaurant, and had fun watching young backpacker travelers dancing at the town’s plaza at the rhythm of local “carnavalito” music.

Then along the road came Tilcara, Humahuaca and Iruya. This last place was also an amazing surprise. This is a town built in the mountain side, uphill are all the houses and the stone paved roads led the visitors to the breathtaking top hill sights.

Once again, our Cheap hotel takes our breath and rewards our bodies and souls. We wake up to enjoy the sunrise from the comfort of our bed, the spectacular huge windows of our room face the marvelous carved shapes of the break, its broad walls bathed by the afternoon soft light are the second sunny ritual we’ve begin to religiously pursue in these former Inca towns.

Purmamarca is our final stop –once again- before heading back home. We had so deeply fallen in love with that place that we had to return. We returned to the Morters restaurant, to enjoy Tere’s wonderful cooking and exchange recipes and tips… We now chose La Comarca lodge, another great place we discover, and once again enjoyed lovely afternoons at the plaza’s café.

Bob Frassinetti. Buenos Aires, Argentina

And why Route 40

admin — Sun, 14 Jan 2007 16:46:21 +0000

For as long as I can remember, route 40 was in my travel plans. Each time I took some time off I was lured by route 40 adventures, when I was discovering other faraway lands, it was still on my mind and dreams; it was my top tip for fellow travelers seeking adventure and beauty in Argentina.

The mystical route 40 borders the Andes Mountains from the Puna to the southern Glaciers. Atop the beauty and magical nature surrounding this highway all along, the trace has a deep cultural and historical significance. Following ancient indigenous routes that were created by the elder leaders of those communities, the route is not a mere road but a significant path through meaningful locations in terms of positive energy and bewitching landscapes. From north to south, its zigzagging leads us into a variety of climates and ecosystems.

Our journey, though beginning in Buenos Aires city, has its symbolic beginning ……………………….

Bob Frassinetti, Buenos AIres, Argentina