Isla Del Sol
We’d planned to trek the Isla del Sol – the spiritual birthplace of the Inca civislisation – while we were here, one because it sounded delightful (“encentado” in Spanish!), and two because we thought it would be a good practice for our Inca Trail trek to Macchu Pichu later on. It proved to be both, at least in part!
Rucksacks packed and Beanfeast safely stored away, we headed for the beach at far too an early hour in the morning and immediately got our own launch, complete with one-eyed skipper, kitsch-like curtains and rubber seats – “lovely”! Eyes firmly on the horizon to prevent any chance of fish food being produced, we bounced our way across Lake Titicaca for an hour before coming into a small beach on the southern end of the island. In non too good pigeon Spanish we agreed with Captain (one) Bird’s Eye that he’d pick us up here at 3pm the following day, and that was that – we were on our own, well and truly.
First little challenge was the fact we were on the beach and the hillside towered above us, the route up being an original staircase known as an ‘Escelara’ – an escalator in local language. Oh, if only it was!! It was more akin to the dreaded Watkins Path up Snowdon, steep and large steps unforgiving on the knees and at this altitude completely exhausting. A few steps at a time and then a rest, and as we climbed we were met by what seemed like most of the islands occupants coming down to take boats away to the main land. They were accompanied by a collection of animals ranging from piggies, mules and of course the beautiful llamas that hang around these parts, and each and everyone one of them (people that is!) greeted us with a cheerful “Beunos Dias” – we managed each time to return their greetings, although felt sure they were testing our ability to speak, breathe and walk at the same time!!
At the top of this first hill we were in the island’s main settlement (no cars or roads here, so at least some relief from the choking fumes we’ve suffered from elsewhere). We were approached by little children at almost every turn asking if we needed accommodation. While the temptation was great, we managed to spit out the words “El Campo”, patting our rucksacks and smiling confidently – oh, if only we had taken up these offers!
A little more climbing away from the settlement and we were at our first peak on the island, a lofty 13,234 feet high and affording stunning views down all sides of the island to the dazzling blue waters of Lake Titicaca. While Emma had recovered from her trips to the toilet, Eug’s body hadn’t, and he was seen sprinting towards a small wall with pack being slung off and lower garments discarded – just in time!
We continued our walk northwards along a good track before we came across what appeared to be an impromptu checkpoint – two blokes sat either side of an arch with words written above that neither of us understood. Fortunately we’d got a few Bolivianos with us, and 20 notes later we were on our way. None the wiser (nothing in the guide books about this), but perhaps a good example of locals acting on their initiative!
We decided to push on until 1pm and have some lunch, and during this time we both wilted a little in the heat and the ongoing short hills along the backbone of the island. As planned we left the track and found a nice sheltered spot beneath a large rocky outcrop – Pringles, Mug Shots and (melted) Snickers bars later we were refreshed and ready for the afternoon. Back on the track we met our first co-trekkers coming the other way – this was the really nice thing about the trek and one that surprised us somewhat, in that we had the island almost to ourselves for many of the miles we walked.
Towards this point the trek was really spectacular, with the route being more akin to a ridge walk in the UK than anything else. High, high above the sweeping hillsides dropping down to the deep blue glistening lake below and tiny bays supporting a few houses and the odd boat bobbing far below. Beautiful! We came across a couple of kids with llamas who barred our way, pleading for their photo to be taken – for a price. Now, granted, they did look really cute, but we aren’t in the habit of being held to ransom like this. Rather than succumb to these demands, we ignored the photo opportunity and instead gave them pens and stickers we’d brought from the the UK just for this purpose. At least the pens should be helpful to them, while the little stickers of happy smily faces will probably be a novelty for them.
Seeing we were reaching the northern tip of the island, while it was only mid afternoon, we dropped our pace and enjoyed the sense of being in this isolated and magnificiently inspiring landscape. Very Mediterranean in style, we spotted the odd flock of sheep being tended by locals, while to our left and across the lake were the shores of Peru, and to our right and about 30 miles away the high peaks of the Bolivian Andes, capped with snow, providing a spectacular backdrop to the infinite blue of the lake.
We began to drop down to the northern tip and spied the ruins of the Inca’s just below. But we were also spotted by yet another “official” based under a temporary shelter some distance away; over he scurried to intercept us ahead of the ruins, and demanded the entrance fee before he’d let us pass. He was rather disappointed when Eug produced the two tickets he’d been given at the last checkpoint, so instead questioned where we were sleeping tonight. El Campo we replied, to which he said it was privado. Again, nothing in the guidebooks about this, only the advice that camping was freely available all over the island, and particularly spectacular on the beach beneath the ruins of the Incas. Asking him how much worked though! First it was ten Bv’s, then it went up to 20. Before the price could rise any further, we gave him the cash and pushed past him, disappointed that it appears there’s some sort of scam going on here.
We decided to look at the ruins properly the following day, and so made our way through them and down a steep-sided hillside through brush and over loose dirt to the beach far below. Reaching the beach was great – utter isolation beside the lake, looking west to a reddening sky, and a sense of being Robinson Crusoe!
We found ourselves a nice pitch not too far from a small cave, and got on with collecting firewood, purifying water from the lake and preparing our evening meal. We’d even managed to bring some beers with us too, and the sense of real wilderness (with quite a few mod cons!) was brilliant.
Beanfeast and Smash later, washed down with cool beer and a fire crackling away, we were ready to crash out, and it was only 8.15pm! Far away on the other side of the lake we could see darker clouds and flashes of lightening, but here all was peaceful and the myriad of sparkling stars above our heads suggested a cool night ahead. With tent zipped up we settled down for a good night’s sleep……….
Tags: Bolivia at last!
mihai