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Adventures around Mulgirigala

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009

Time with Sandun

Sandun (pronounced SAHN-doon) is one of my friends that lives in the village behind Amanwella.  I met him during my first week at Aman through one of the butlers, Sampath.  Sandun first invited me to go octopus hunting with him and his father, but that time we were unsuccessful.  Fortunately there ARE really other fish in the sea and we ventured through rock and coral as Sandun pointed out interesting creatures or showing me which ones where dangerous.  He picks creatures up out of the water and shows them to me while giving me a detailed explanation on their living situation, eating habits, and detail about their body parts etc.  He showed me how to pick up star fish without breaking their limbs and how to gently pull one of the many spikes of the sea urchen to watch them flinch. 

I found myself snorkeling with Sandun everyday, finding new kinds of fish, venturing further and further off the coast and being able to swim deeper below the sea’s surface.  Recently I was able to realise that in addition to enjoying our under the sea adventures, I enjoy Sandun’s company.  One day I vocalised my slight frusturation with the fact that I hadn’t explored much of the area yet and that I finally was going to see the Rock Temple.  I told him my driver Lalith was going to charge me 1,000 SLR’s, and asked if that was a good deal.

“You are going by yourself?  I can come with you and my friend can drive us for free!”

I accepted his offer and rode with him and Dinush to the Rock Temple in Mulgirigala 25 kms away.  It felt so nice to be in the tuk tuk, driving through villages and seeing people and places.  I had always wondered what it would be like to drive a tuk tuk so you can imagine how pleased I was when Dinush offered to show me how to drive it.  It was obviously manuel, and I do not have much experience with a clutch, but somehow I did it.  I drove us the entire way through crazy Sri Lankan traffic (with the lovely addition of vehiches honking due to my slow speed) to the Rock Temple.     

The Rock Temple is a beautiful monestary build around a sacred rock.  There are several mural covered caves throughout the rock containing giant sleeping Buddhas, and one of the dead Buddha.  You can climb over 500 steps to the top of the rock where you will find a breathtaking view of the jungle (monkeys included!) 

Moments i LIVE for 

We could see rain clouds in the distance so I made Sandun wait till they were right over our heads so we could sit on the top in the pouring rain.  Sure enough only moments later the monsoon shower began!!  Large warm raindrops danced on my face, drenching my clothes and hair!  I played in the rain the entire way down and the others took refuge underneath the trees and hid under their umbrellas.  I muddied up my feed and jumped in puddles.  Sandun bought us some tea from a street vendor to warm us up for the ride home.

Back in the Village

Before arriving back at Amanwella, I went to Sandun’s house to meet his family.  I met his little sister (8 years old), mother, aunt (who lives next door), and his two cousins (8 years old and 16 years old).  I enjoyed another cup of Ceylon tea while I watched his aunt cut stacks of cloth into pieces which would soon develop into a t-shirt.  Sandun’s aunt sews plain t-shirts (and there are other designs that are more complicated) and she recieved around 300 SLR’s for each one from the stores.  No one else in his family speaks English, but the children non-the-less hung around us curiously watching Sandun and I speak foreign talk.  His family insists that I come back soon for dinner.  I happily oblige.  

the truth about the “Beach Boys”

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

I have been on a mission for the past few days to find out the truth about “beach boys”.  Who are they, how old are they, what do they do and why do they do it?

During my first few days at Peace Beach (Aman = peace, Wella = beach) I of course noticed a lot of attention from the boys on the beach.  I  assumed the I was receiving such attention becuase I was a foreigner, and because I was a girl (we get used to this so I just saw it as normal).  Nothing goes further than kind gestures, short conversations in broken English, and small gifts (I have received some nice little shells, and even some home made ayruvedic oil for mosquito bites).  Being an educated, traveling, and independant woman, I knew to keep my boundaries and be aware of my interactions.  And now only a week and a half later (is this too long?  or was I quick to catch on?) I know the truth.

“Beach Boys” are prostitutes!!  Sri Lanka is a place for female Sex Tourism: when Western woman vacation solo (or with another girlfriend of two) seeking out romance in paradise.  In return for company and sex, the females  take their beach lovers out shopping (for shoes, clothing, jewelery etc), out for dinner, on day trips, and sometimes even let them stay at their hotel with them.  These flings can last as little as a few hours, or as long as a few years!!  Some woman have been known to send money and gifts to their beach lovers long after they have left paradice.

To find out the truth of this matter, I have been interviewing people all over the resort here.  They don’t act surprised when I ask them.  “Yes, it is normal” they say and “I have many friends that are beach boys”. 

It is simply their job.  These boys can range anywhere in age, but particularly 18-late 20’s (child sex tourism is another story I don’t even dare to get into)  and the woman can range anywhere in age, even quite old ladies.  Sometimes these men are even married and are “beach boys” to support their wives and children.  When there are no jobs for the men, they become “beach boys” and fulfill the woman’s fantasy of paradise romance.   

So now it all makes sense!  Two old Italian ladies (i’d say 60’s) got in trouble for bringing one of the local “beach boys” up to the pool.  They were buying him deserts and drinks.  The managers here told him they couldn’t have locals coming up here to the resort, and they knew why.  Later that day I saw one of those same ladies walking on the beach with another boy, holding his hand!! i started to get the hint.  Later that night, I introduced myself to a young couple and asked them where they were from.  They were pretty close so I assumed they were a couple, “She’s from Germany” replied the man.  So I realised he was local and she was his sugar momma for the week.

 So this is what those charming young lads on the beach down below Amanwella have been up to.  And I have been told that they automatically think that any white or Western woman coming to the beach is looking for a beach lover.  Well the “beach boys” do not fool me, and as far as they are concerned, I am married and my husband is up at the pool!