BootsnAll Travel Network



Wainwright, Alaska – Tundra Village on the Arctic Ocean

September 22nd, 2007

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The Cessna Grand Caravan that I flew from Barrow to Wainwright was split down the middle: Passengers on the right, cargo on the left. At least I knew for certain that all 7 of my bags and cartons made the flight.

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Wainwright is a village of about 500 folks – it seems a bit smaller than that. I’m sharing an apartment with a guy named Tex. He’s never been to Texas. The school is just 100 yards from my door, easiest commute in my life. Our living room window has a fair view of the Arctic Ocean, about 1/4 mile away.

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Since the beach is so close, it’s the first choice for an after school walk. Sometimes some of the younger Inupiat kids join us. On the first day of school we had an assembly. While waiting for all of the students to file into the gym, I did a few simple tricks for the grade school kids. I am now known as Mr. Magic.

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Dog teams have been replaced by snowmachines and 4-wheelers, but most folks still keep a few dogs around, but haven’t come across anyone that has enough of them to pull a sled.

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A neighborhood family getting ready to head out to pick berries.

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This morning I took a 10 mile hike to the DEW military installation with a couple of other teachers, Rusty and Emily and her 3 year-old son, Henry. Rusty brought along a gun in hopes we could bag a caribou. No such luck. As Em and Rusty had thought about camping at the now-abandoned base, they carried backpacks, and I was the lucky guy who carried Henry. We hiked along a lagoon before we had to cut across the tundra and came across this carcass of a seal that was shot in the head and left to rot.
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caribou.jpgAlthough we didn’t spot any caribou, someone in town had some recent success.

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Barrow Bits

September 9th, 2007

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I’ve been up here for over two weeks and, sad to say, I’ve pretty much seen everything in town – and it’s a bit of a stretch to say that many of these sights are special. The whale-bone arch in the above photo I suppose is the quintessential shot of this place. Outside of most every public building there are bones of whales – whaling is an important subsistence activity here. Most hunts are usually in the spring, but there are fall hunts, so I hope to see one in progress – or at least be around when they bring one in.

cruise.jpgOne doesn’t think of Barrow and the Arctic coast as a cruise ship destination, but this ship sailed to town last weekend. It originated in Greenland and was heading to Cold Bay on the Alaska Peninsula – a tour of the Northwest Passage. I chatted with a few of passengers. Most all were rich and retired Germans or Scandinavians and were all interested in this part of the world. Bleak and beautifully desolate were the most-often heard descriptors of their voyage.

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I suppose one’s right to a speedy trial is important way up north – wouldn’t want to have any frozen assets or anything.

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Field Guide to the Arctic Blue-Turfed Hooligan

September 9th, 2007

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This past Saturday was the final football game of the year for the Barrow Whalers. They played Nikiski, a team from the North Road of the Kenai Peninsula. There’s not much to do here, and despite not being a fan of the sport, I did head to the field, located some 3 or 4 miles east of town and placed between the Arctic Ocean and a tundra lake. I know the fathers of a couple of the NiHi players, and sure enough, one of them was there to root for his son, the quarterback. He didn’t have much to cheer about as NiHi turned the ball over 4 times and saw a 15-14 lead become a 27-15 loss. The wind howled for the entire game – most spectators stayed in their cars. A few fans watched from the make-shift bleachers and provided a bit of local color. It’s surprisingly curious that the Barrow team is a multi-cultural mix of Inupiat, Caucasian, African-American, Samoan, and other players of various ethnic backgrounds.

Check out one of my previous posts (It blows here in Barrow) for the skinny about the football team.

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Arctic Ocean Beach Bum

September 1st, 2007

barrowbeach.jpgIt’s the first of September and the beginning of the the 3-day Labor Day Weekend. Slept in a bit – I usually have to wake up at 5:30 AM to get to school on time, so lounging in the rack until 7 and then some unhurried coffee was a treat.

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By 10, I was out the door and out on the beach and hiked off to the west. This is as North as you can get on the continent, and mostly a dull and unattractive place
I walked for two hours and far enough to escape the wind-blown trash from town before I stopped for lunch. I came across several carcasses (natural and man-made). I then climbed the low bluff and took a look across the tundra to the south. It’s a bleak place. Yeah, I don’t think I’ll ever complain about Soldotna again! But I suppose I prefer the starkness of this place more than strip malls and car lots.
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It Blows Here In Barrow

August 27th, 2007

…but more about that later.

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My home for the next month is an apartment on the corner of Ogrook and Kongasak and the Arctic Ocean is just 3 blocks away. The school district recently acquired this 3 unit building to provide temporary housing for itinerant and long-term substitute teachers like me and right now, I am the only tenant. It’s funky, of course, and seems as if it was designed as it was being built as there’s a support post outside my bedroom door, there are 2 utility rooms, and there’s no place for a dining table. I do have a big refrigerator, but it wouldn’t fit in the kitchen, so they put it in the entry room some 20 feet from the stove and counter top. The apartment wasn’t quite clean when I moved in, but Cassie, the district’s Special Services Director, took me to the store and we loaded up on implements of muck destruction, which then gave me a purpose for the next day and a half until I had to report to school. In the purifying process, I discovered a woman’s extra-extra large bikini panty in the washing machine and paused for a minute wondering if I should decorate the wall with it or to use it for some future practical joke. My friend Dan may come up to do some sub-teaching and it would be great fun to sneak it in his luggage when he goes back home. Hey Buddy, explain that to Donna! The indecision decision had it tossed in the trash, however. Read the rest of this entry »

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Get a Job!

August 27th, 2007

Well, after a year living fancy-free, it’s time for yours truly to replenish the bank account. Since I don’t really have any skills that might pay what I think I deserve, I’ve decided to resurrect my teaching career and take a long-term substitute teaching position up in Alaska’s North Slope. For one month, I will be a special-ed teacher at a junior high in Barrow, the most northern community in North America. Then I will be assigned to take on special-ed duties in Wainwright, a small village some 75 miles down the coast. Both communities are mostly Inupiaq Eskimos. Wainwright is a subsistence village relying on whaling, and hunting seals, walrus, and caribou for food. Both towns are along the Arctic Ocean. And while this place is technically in America, bush Alaska ain’t like no place else in the states.

So the next few blog entries will give me something to do in the evenings as the long summer days quickly become dark winter nights.
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7 jets in 36 hours

January 15th, 2007

airport.jpgMaybe I should post this in the forum here on Bootsnall, but I would bet my exit from Thailand and back home ranks up there with the all-time worst travel connections.

Here’s what I inflicted on myself:

Flight 1: Chiang Mai – Bangkok
Flight 2: Bangkok – Taipei
Flight 3: Taipei – Los Angeles
Flight 4: LAX – Salt lake City
Flight 5: Salt Lake – Seattle
Flight 6: Seattle – Anchorage
Flight 7: Anchorage – Kenai

For the entire time in SE Asia, I traveled with one carry-on backpack. Just before I left Chiang Mai, I bought another bag and went gift-shopping. I placed my dirty laundry in the check-in bag and kept the important stuff in the carry-on, anticipating that the check-in piece would be lost in the shuffle en route.

I didn’t have to wait until I got to Kenai (that flight is a tiny turboprop with just 8 seats) to discover that my bag had kept up the pace. Damn lucky.

The photo reflects the heightened security at the airport

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Motorcycle Diaries Chapter 2: Counter-Clockwise in NW Thailand

January 7th, 2007

pai.jpgI’m at the age when it doesn’t seem to matter what time I go to sleep at night as I always wake up early. Througout SE Asia, even in most large cities, the roosters start the process around 4:30 or 5:00 AM. Earplugs can only block out so much.

So, it wasn’t suprising that my eyes were wide open at 7 on a cold and misty new year’s day. I was still in my bunglaow in Pai however and checkout wasn’t until noon. Plenty of time for the sun to cut through the haze and warm the day.

The agenda until that time was coffee and pastry (banana bread instead of a mystery turnover this time), supplemented by a good book and the morning music playlist from the Ipod. The water in the shower had plenty of heat and pressure – a rare double-combination in my travels here. Aside from sleeping alone, the morning couldn’t have been much better.
Read the rest of this entry »

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Motorcycle Diaries: On the Road to Pai

December 31st, 2006

NTmotorcycle.jpgSomehow I found myself in Chiang Mai, Thailand- it gets a lot of hype as one of the best places in this country, but it is just a Bangkok-north. Since it is the town I fly out of when I leave for home in less than a couple of weeks, it made sense to use it as a base for exploring north-western Thailand.

I decided to rent a real motorcycle for the remaining time I have – and to just cruise the country-side.

My first destination is the town of Pai – and it is from here that I am posting this blog. Read the rest of this entry »

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Leaving Lao

December 31st, 2006

ll.jpgThe trip out of Lao was an adventure – sort of the type that was fun in an uncomfortable way that makes great stories later.

I got up early to buy a ticket as I figured it might sell out – so far, so good. But when I returned to board a few hours later, all the seats were taken and the floor space was filled with cargo.

No problem, I just sat on the bags and crates stacked in the main aisle and had the best seat in the house – I was even able to stretch out completely! There were only a half-dozen falaang on the bus and we were all in the back. I chatted most of the way with a retired teacher from Oz and with this free-lance art-critic from Paris. The hours were absorbed by some good conversation.

The bus broke down 3 times, and we all had to get out and push 2 other times. Several other times we had to just get out and walk because of how steep the road was.

The Chinese and Thai governments have joined together to cut a road through this part of Lao as a direct link between the other two and it is still in the cutting in stage – mud and bulldozers and dust and such.

There seems to be no concern for the hill tribe people as it cuts through villages that were not on the road system. It’s the end of the world as they know it.

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