Well in less than 24 hours I went from being a cold, dirty squatter in Barcelona to being a cold, clean tourist in Venice who paid 45 euro for one night in a hotel (breakfast included). Well that was my first night in Venice, trying to find the cheap hostel recommended in my guidebook by navigating my way through the narrow confusing streets only to arrive 24 mins past the closing time for reception (8 pm). So I was turned away by a voice from an intercom back to the beautiful bridges over the gray-green water of the canals and back to the cobble-stoned narrow streets - this time in search of a hotel (apparently the only establishments one can inquire about accomodation after 8 pm). I soon discovered Venice is nothing like Barcelona where night life stays true to the meaning of the word and bars and other venues are open most of the night. I find Venice practically deserted after 10 pm and getting lost at that time when the only sound you hear is the echo of your own footsteps in the narrowest of streets surrounded by buildings that seem to lean in closer to you... well, it's not my idea of fun.

I did find a hotel eventually and thank goodness for credit cards cause just about everything I'm "paying" for in Venice is going on my visa card. Nothing is cheap in Venezia, not even internet which averages about 7-9 euro an hour! (Compared to one euro an hour in Barcelona, you can appreciate the shock value of internet time in Venice). I have been getting by on "student" rates; though I am in fact not a student at all, my appearance gives the impression that I should be in school (or so it seems) and luckily, I have been able to pay the cheaper rates without showing any proof of student ID.

Expenses aside, Venice is a truly magical city. I have seen no other city like it in my travels in Europe and one can imagine why so many writers and musicians have referenced (or at times lived in, as the expat community will attest) Venezia in their work. My first day in this city, it was fairly warm and the buildings and waters glowed in the sunshine. Today, it is snowing! And yes, it is cold... the only other drawback to being in this city is the tourists - you are more likely to hear English, Spanish, French, German or Japanese than Italian. And of course, everything is marketable to tourists so you're more likely to find restaurants with "tourist menus" and shops selling tourist kitsch than you are to find a supermarket or laundromat (trust me, I tried! Though I did finally find the laundromat ;)

All the same, Venice is an enchanting city... and you can feel the magic in the air...