Inca Trail Part II
Day 2 continued…
After admiring the view at Dead Woman’s Pass at 4200 meters, some of us decide to start the decent back down to 3600 meters where night 2s camp site is. I know, all that work to reach 4200 meters just to turn around and have to start going back down. Unfortunately in the rain, all of the rocks and stones become very slippery. Although I was one of the first to reach the highest mark, I was one of the last to reach the camp site down below. My fearlessness went away knowing one slip on a rock could send me down-hill with a broken bone. Even the big manly giants were slipping and sliding. Fortunately, I hit ground only about 2 times.
Most of us arrived to camp around 3pm that afternoon, which led for a lot of down time. Many napped before dinner but I was experiencing another one of my “alone” moments as I had in the jungle. Julia was still several hours behind so I had the tent to myself and too much time to sit and think. Mostly time to reflect on my past and of course what the future holds for me. For some reason I refused to bring any books or a journal on my adventure because I figured I would constantly be talking to locals and tourists, but that was a mistake. I will surely bring reading material and a journal to Europe.
Day 3 is the longest day of the Inca Trail hike. The day starts with another up hill climb to the ruins of Runkuracay. After breakfast I decide to head off onto the trail a few minutes before the others as I was back to carrying my backpack and was not sure how my neck would hold up. I had been hiking about 30 minutes when I turned the corner of the trail, looked up, and to my surprise there stood a brown bear roughly 30 feet in front of me. I could not believe it, a bear on the Inca Trail. We had been warned there were bears but people hardly ever see them and if you do, you are very lucky. I’m standing there alone, whip out my camera and snap a few shots. Unfortunately it was cloudy that morning and its a bit hard to see the bear in the pictures but he is visible. I stood there in awe until a Porter came along and made me stop and wait until the bear crossed the trail and went back into the woods. As I continued on the path to the ruins I started realizing the bear could have actually attacked me. But I’m told they are just as afraid of humans as we are of them.
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Another 45 minute hike after the first ruins brings us to the second pass, Abra de Runkuracay at 4000 meters. Then on to pass 3, Sayacmarca meaning Inaccessible Town. After pass 3 its nothing but downhill, 3000 steps down to be exact. Although certain areas are steep and I’m walking slow, the decent on day 3 was the most beautiful. The trail descends into a magnificent cloud forest full of orchids, hanging mosses, tree ferns and flowers, passing through an impressive Inca tunnel, carved into the rock.
Around 4pm most of us arrive at camp site 3, Winay Wayna. Here, you will find a restaurant to enjoy a deserving beer or candy bar, plus a hot shower!, for 5 soles of course. Most of us sat around playing cards with the Porters, Shit Head is the name of the game. That night we enjoy a fancy dinner with animals made out of vegetables. And for dessert, a fabulously decorated cake! We head to bed early knowing we have to wake up at 4am if we want to be first in line for the 5am checkpoint open.
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On the morning of day 4 our group ends up being the first to arrive at the checkpoint where our passports need to be checked. It is about 1.5 hours from Winay Wayna to Machu Pichu. We practically head off running that morning as the rain pours down on us. During the hike we reach a stair case which is 60 steps completely vertical. But by that point everything was a piece of cake. Then, after a few more minutes of hiking we reach the famous Machu Pichu, The Lost City of the Incas. Due to the rainy season all we see is fog, but we are practically promised in about 30 minutes the fog will pass and we will get our unforgettable view. After we have had a chance to rest we descend to the main entrance to leave our backpacks. We then re-enter Machu Pichu for a 3 hour guided tour. We were blessed with extremely sunny and bright weather that morning. After the guided tour we had a few hours on our own to take more pictures and explore the ruins.
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‘Following Machu Pichu we took a bus into the local town, Aguas Calientes. Here we all met for lunch and several beers as we waited for our 5pm train departure. After a 4 hour train ride back into Cusco, I head back to Hostel Amaru to share a room with Julia.
Things to note about my 4 day Inca Trail experience:
* Don’t be cheap, purchase at least one walking stick before the beginning of the Inca Trail. Price per stick-4 soles. I was determined to bring mine back to the States but I left them in a taxi!
* Bring snacks! I went without any snacks and was craving sweet things the entire time. Fortunately, there are local people throughout days 1 and 2 who sell snacks but for a high cost as most of us hikers are desperate for a Snickers or bag of Skittles. Price per candy bar-5 soles
* No need to purchase the iodine tablets to clean the water. You can buy bottled water throughout days 1 and 2 and then the Porters boil water for you to refill your bottles. Price per bottled water-not sure as I had enough to last me the first 2 days.
* The Porters amaze me. Supposedly there was a contest to see the fastest time a Porter could complete the Inca Trail…3 1/2 hours! It takes the normal human roughly 20 hours.
* Buy good hiking shoes. I purchased a pair of North Face for $100 and they were spectacular water proof hiking shoes. It rained everyday and my feet never felt wet.
* I still look down at my feet and don’t see my ankles. The decent put blisters underneath every toe and the hours of hiking made my ankles swell to balloon size. If you only saw my feet and ankles you would think I weigh 300 pounds. Luckily the fatness is starting to disappear.
* Bring cards, book, and a journal no matter where I travel.
* Many Argentinians in Peru, including hiking the Inca Trail. They are loud and somewhat obnoxiously cocky but they know how to have a good time.
* I don’t think they give enough warning as to how in shape you need to be. I eat well and exercise regularly but I found it extremely difficult. I don’t think I saw anyone over the age of 45 on the trail.
Hiking the Inca Trail has by far been one of the top 3 most challenging and rewarding experiences of my life. Although every day was a battle to reach camp, the last day at Machu Pichu made it worth every painful step and every huge breath. Don’t be lazy and take the train when you can experience the hike that gives you such an adrenalin rush. Get over your fear of heights, your fear of high elevation, your fear of hiking for 4 days, your fear of being dirty for so long, your fear of the disgusting toilets, your fear of pain, your fear of feeling ugly, your fear of quitting and just do it. You will never regret it.
See rest of Inca Trail photos here.
Tags: Inca Trail
June 12th, 2008 at 11:10 am
Hey,
I ready your Inca Trail blog - totally empathize. My ankles were so swollen too…there were so many times on the trail that I thought I wouldn’t make it. I still can’t believe I did. I was so glad to see Macchu Pichu!!
Hope you’re having fun in Colorado!
Mahima