Udaipur/Mumbai – Luxury travel
When I was younger, the children’s programme Blue Peter ran a series all about Japan. We watched enthralled as our minds were introduced to the delights of sushi, and amazing technological advances. One thing that stuck in my memory quite vividly was a capsule hotel in Tokyo. Designed for business men who were passing through town, the capsule hotel was a series of high-tech booths with controlled temperature, tv, various gizmos and gadgets to make the stay more enjoyable, and immaculately, if spartanly, decorated in white.
Booking an overnight bus journey from Udaipur to Mumbai on a deluxe, air conditioned bus with my own private cabin to sleep in, I honestly expected something like the Blue Peter capsule hotel. What I got was something the exact opposite of that. I don’t know why I was so naive…
Imagine, if you will, a coffin decorated at either end with laminated, peeling, oak plywood. To one side there are two sliding doors, neither of which closes completely, topped by a grubby curtain. To the other side are two sliding windows, which have the same closing issues as the doors, and the breeze from them makes the curtain on the other side flap against you disconcertingly all night long. The cabin is just about long enough for you to stretch out in, if you were 5 inches shorter. It’s hot during daylight hours, and downright chilly at night. To add injury to, well, injury, it’s as hard as a plank, and the less-than-perfect roads here ensure you are jolted about like a piece of popcorn all night long.
Welcome to 21st century luxury travel!
Nursing my bruises, gasping for water (I’d only taken a bit on the journey with me – believe me, if you’d seen the loos on the rest stops, you’d have done the same), and feeling distinctly unwashed, I’d consoled myself all journey with the thought of a pleasant, beach-front hotel in Mumbai (Bombay). Mumbai is the most expensive place to stay in India, so, to get something better than a cockroach-infested box, I’d picked out a hotel from Lonely Planet that seemed to get great reviews, only was slightly more than I’d paid elsewhere.
Jumping into a taxi, I asked him to take me to my destination, my imagination filled with the thought of downy beds and long showers. Unfortunately, clever clogs here hadn’t appreciated the fact that the England cricket team playing here also meant thousands of cricket fans needing accommodation. Twenty hotels and two hours later, I found a place that had a free room, charging a criminally high 950 rupees per night (close to 12 GBP – for that price, normally you’d be talking a room in Buckingham Palace over here). Ignoring the questionable marks on the wall and the bugs in the bathroom (they were probably the only ones, I kidded myself), I took it, had a mercifully hot shower, and headed out to see Mumbai.
If I have a problem with a place, like difficulty in getting a hotel room, or a bug-infested hole to stay in, it does tend to cloud my judgement of that town. Same story on this day. Mumbai seemed hot, oppressive, loud after the peace of Udaipur, and filled with cricket fans with their tops off. I had something to eat, strolled round the Gateway of India (where the last British troops departed from, all those years ago), and treated myself to a cup of tea in the Taj Mahal Palace, the poshest hotel in Mumbai, but even that didn’t hit the spot, somehow – the staff seemed snooty, and didn’t like me not having something to eat.
Giving the day up as a bad job, I returned to my hotel, watched some American trashy tv, said goodnight to the bugs, and went to sleep.
I woke up with renewed determination to give Mumbai a second chance. Philosophically, I’ll run into difficulties on this trip, and I can’t let it put me off places like that. Although I was ripped off by my first taxi ride of the day, to the train station to book my ticket, I gritted my teeth and said This Will Not Beat Me. It was a matter of principal now, people.
Wandering through Mumbai’s green colonial streets, I started to get a feel for the place. Less hectic than Delhi, but more cosmopolitan and with a lovely sea breeze, it seemed like quite a fun place to be. And my fun was just starting.
As the cricket team were in town, I figured I’d go and watch a day of the test match. Knowing how I couldn’t explain the rules of cricket if my life depended on it (it’s a bit like rounders, right? Or is that baseball?), this could have backfired but fortunately it was a great decision. I ended up spending the day with a lovely Australian couple, Sasha and John, who were funny, intelligent company – we went for a few beers afterwards (just seems right, somehow, after a sunny day of cricket), and I promised to look them up if I pass through Queensland. Much fun.
I had an early start for Bangalore the next day so slept soundly, glad that I’d made my peace with this cool city.
Tags: India, Travel
Suzanne
There’s nothing worse than a bad journey to put you out of sorts. So glad you had a better experience the next day. You’ve been lucky with the people you’ve met so far! Hope the journey to Bangalore is more bearable!
By the way, I remember the Blue Peter programme too, but I’m sure Michael Palin could have warned you about the ‘coffin on a train’ situation. In future, watch more telly!
Take care!
Sarah xx
Chalk me down as another Blue Peter fan who remembers the tour of Japan and the capsule hotel. Another random thing I learnt about Japan from Blue Peter was all the slot machine things that were made to use up all the spare ball bearings that had been made during the war. Wikipedia reliably informs me it’s called Pachinko.
Anywho, I digress…
Glad you got to catch a day of the test match. Like I said in my email, I think you could be a good luck charm for the England team. Could you join the Barmy Army full time and just stay in Australia until the end of the year for the next Ashes series?
Hope to read another exciting blog entry again soon.
Love you lots.
Michael
Hi Suze, Another exciting blog!! I had no doubt that being the mega- sociable person that you are ( you remind me so much of my Mum- who speaks to anyone and everyone!!) that you would be far from lonely at any point throughout your trip! You will return home with a new address book full af names and addresses of people all over the world . Suppose the cricket was a new experience for you.? Take care. Lots of love from C L x x
Hi Suze,
I’m sure the cricket was a wonderful experience. I hope you were quick to remind the your Austailan company that they were watching the best side in the world, albeit unofficially.
P.S. I checked out Dave’s hotel in Bangalore on t’interweb. Looks very nice so make sure you take advantage and max out his company credit card with a meal or two. I understand your mum’s dropped off a few items for him to take out but he’s a bit nervous about the 2 kilo’s of Sherbert Dip minus the lollies!
Take care,
Paul x
Suze, I feel I should give you 10/10 for enduring 17 hours of being bumped about in your wooden box all the way to Mumbai and painful though it must have been it does make good reading!!!! Glad to hear it all turned out well in the end.
Much love. Mum
P.S. Just imagine how uncomfortable Michael would have been in this cabin……at least 17″ too long, even with his legs tucked under his chin. x
Hi Suze, so sorry to hear about your awful accommodation {the”coffin bed} But glad that
things turned round for you at the cricket match and you made more new friends.
Enjoy the rest of your time, and hopefully no bugs this time.I could never have slept, i think you are very brave. I only have to see a spider and i am sleepless all night.
Look forward to your next story.Jus think you will be able to write a full book when you arrive home, and i am sure it would be bestseller!! lots of love Angela xxx
Hi Suzi: Another interesting account of your (painful though it was) Journey – imagine
me being so claustrauphobic in a tiny cabin like it sounds. Glad you met another nice couple, as Claire-Louise says, your address book will be full of the interesting people you have met along the way. She’s right, I do talk to anyone and everyone……… well, it’s nice to be sociable. Do take care. Much love
God Bless Aunty Rosemary x
Hi Suzanne!
I’m your mum’s friend from St Joe’s (Church and governing body), and I realise it’s not quite time for our regular Christmas Eve chat, but YOU WENT TO WATCH CRICKET IN INDIA???!!! I was envious of your trip before, but now? Hope you don’t mind my butting in on family conversations but I couldn’t let this one pass, my being such a fan of watching England Cricket. I’m green with envy. And you not even understanding what was going on. What a waste (tongue firmly in cheek)!
Sounds like you’re having exactly the sort of trip you set out to have. You keep up the fantastic blogging, and I’ll keep up my prayers to St Christopher.
Lots of e-love
Catherine
Ps Who’s this fellow in Finland? Sounds really funny!
Hey Suzanne,
I’m back blogging after a few days off (been at home an’ stuff) and I’ve got to say it’s been a bit like when you go on holiday and come back to a couple of episodes of Desperate Housewives. I’ve sat down with a cuppa and read them all. I’ve spent most of the morning catching up and looking through the photos. They are wicked. The ones of you covered in all manner of stuff are hilarious.
Whilst at home I did manage to show your blog to my mam and dad (who send their love by the way – “She is such a nice girl” was mam’s often repeated comment) and my sister – who then started to cry at your mums first message. So even weeks on that memorable blog continues to turn on the waterworks. We should perhaps show it to all the people in the South and make them cry as a means of solving the current water shortage. Those poor folk aren’t allowed to use their hosepipes to water their enormous gardens you know….
I hope you have god rid of your aches from a bruising encounter in your luxury cabin.
Blog again soon. (Is this even correct terminology??)
Lots of love. God Bless.
Elephant Apple (Snr) x
Hi Suze, I’ve juste read Catherine’s messge and thought that when you reply to explain who the funny guy from Finland is you might also explain how Elephant Apple got his name. I’m sure there are lots of curious people reading your blog who might be too afraid to ask!
I’d forgotten that Catherine was so keen on cricket. When she told me this I was most impressed as I still can’t get my head around the rules (does the offside rule apply?) and I still ask “who’s winning?” I remember when in the past I was “forced” to attend cricket matches I always took a book along to read.
As EA says…………..keep blogging.
Love you lots
Mum