Udaipur – Lovely, Miss Moneypenny
An early morning start from Pushkar to Udaipur saw us all bleary eyed, not least Gary who was feeling decidedly iffy this morning. Unfortunately his condition got worse throughout the long, hot, journey over bumpy and winding roads (not surprising, really), and we had to make a couple of strategic stops. Looking back, we think the culprit was a slightly warm lassi (not the dog – that would be sweet – but the yoghurt drink that’s so popular over here. Not so good when it’s warm).
We were lucky that the hotel we’d liked the sound of from Lonely Planet had rooms available, and they were clean, nicely decorated, and in a good location. Gary flopped on the bed, while Michelle, Brad and I headed out to see a bit of the town.
Udaipur is, hands down, my favourite place on the trip so far (and yes, yes, I know it’s not even been two weeks yet). It has winding, hilly streets that lead down to the beautiful, shimmering Lake Piccola. Surrounded by hills, it makes for the most wonderful, peaceful, whimsical place. In addition to this, it supports the theory that, the further away from Delhi you go, the friendlier the people. We stopped for an authentic Indian snack at a German bakery (ahem), then, on the spur of the moment, booked ourselves a cooking class for later that evening. We picked which dishes we wanted to learn, then the cook, Shashi, would show us how to make them. We chose channa masala, a chickpea curry – and vegetable pilau.
We headed to Shashi’s house at the prearranged time, and she started off by showing us how to make the best cup of chai ever. I’m going to post all the recipes in a separate entry, so you can all make them at home and munch along as you read. I mean it! I want photos as proof. In addition to the dishes we’d chosen, Shashi also showed us how to make chapattis, parathas, and naan. She made a garlic naan stuffed with spicy, sweet tomatoes that, I swear, is one of the best things I have ever tasted in my entire life. And it’s so funny, it’s not something I’d ever pick off a menu. You have to try this today. If you’re at work, go home NOW – pull a sickie or something – and try it. You’ll love me forever. We were so keen we went back and had the same thing for lunch the next day.
It was quite late when we’d made all our goodies and, of course, eaten them, so we headed over the road to our hotel and made plans for an early start.
Gary wasn’t still up to walking about, so the three of us wandered through Udaipur to catch a boat ride around Lake Picchola. To get there, we had to go through the grounds of the gorgeous marble City Palace. This is really the kind of pad I plan to buy when I win the lottery. (Notice when, not if – I believe in the power of positive thinking). Huge, marble pillars everywhere, secluded courtyards, well-kept gardens. Stunning. Part of it has been converted in to two luxury hotels, and although I was tempted for a while, I don’t think mum would appreciate a cable so soon into my trip asking for a loan.
The boat trip took us around the uber-swanky Lake Palace Hotel. This hotel takes up an entire island in the lake and you can only set foot on it if you’re a guest or going for a meal. That was out of our budget, so we settled for a longing gaze round the outside. The Lake Palace was used in the film Octopussy, along with a few other locations in Udaipur, a fact that no-one will allow you to forget, it’s shown nightly in just about any budget restaurant you go to. To my shame as the token Brit, I can barely remember seeing it, although a subsequent discussion about Bonds showed a disconcerting sway from our American cousins to think of Roger Moore as the best bond. I mean, come on! Shurely it has to be Shir Sean?
After a short stop on another, just as beautiful island, we made our way back to the shore. A stop-off at a gallery in a nearby hotel displayed a rather splendid collection of mustaches on the past (and present) Marharajas. Quite fond of their facial hair here.
After a quick shopping expedition for Michelle and I – I’m just as dangerous over here; she ended up buying a beautiful sari that she didn’t plan on – we dashed back for a quick change, and out for a dinner I had been looking forward to all day. It was at the Jagat Niwas hotel, and their rooftop restaurant has prime views over the Lake. We had booked a cushion-lined alcove to sit in, and we watched the sunset with some great food and drinks. As darkness fell, a boat on the lake set off fireworks. Pure bliss, and a fitting way to end my time with Brad, Michelle and Gary.
Tags: India, Travel
Suzanne
Suze, I know you’ve always claimed that by travelling alone it’s easier to meet up with and talk to other people along the way. How nice then that your first experience of spending some time with other travellers has been such a positive one. I’m sure this will continue and people you meet, as well as places you visit, will form wonderful memories.
God Bless.
Love you lots.
Mum