BootsnAll Travel Network



Home 3 – All Good Things Must Come to an End…

April 11th, 2008

Machu Picchu + Llama, Peru

The final blog post…how I’ve both looked forward to and dreaded this day for a very long time. When I started this blog way back in July I don’t think I fully realized what I was getting myself into. It seemed like a nice idea to chronicle my trip and all but I did not realize how the Extravaganza blog would come to define each and every day of my trip. Every morning for the past 9 months I have gotten up with the same thought on my mind…”What am I doing today that is blogworthy?” I found myself often weighing a decision to go somewhere or see something based on whether or not it would make good blog material. In a word…I became obsessed. And now I wonder, what will be my first thought in the morning now that the Extravaganza has come to an end? It’s too soon to tell, I think…

Sister Lindsay at the start of the Inka Trail, Ollantaytambo, Peru

Stacey and Lindsay at the top of one of the three mountain passes of the Inka Trail, Peru

Snouts…at El Mercado Santa Ana, Cusco, Peru

Pre-Incan tombs, Sacred Valley of the Incas, Peru

Lindsay in the jungle…

It’s a tough job trying to guess what people will be interested in…especially when you’re dealing with a wide and varied audience of people. Some of my readers I know well and some are strangers that found me on a Google search or the Bootsnall blog homepage. When I first set out to keep this blog, my intent was largely selfish…to preempt the let-down of returning from a big trip and finding out that few people are actually interested in how your trip was and what you’d been doing. By keeping a travel blog the people that are truly interested can keep up in twice a week doses and those that aren’t interested don’t have to bother. This plan worked brilliantly. Perhaps even better, though, is that the blog served a purpose that has long been a problem for solo travelers everywhere. As much as I love, love, love traveling by myself…sometimes it really sucks to not have someone with you to talk about the cool stuff that you just saw. The blog ended up serving that purpose admirably and was an amazing and altogether unexpected benefit. I hope you’ve all enjoyed the ride as much as I have.

Leaf-cutter ants in the jungle, Manu National Park, Peru

Manu National Park, Peru

Karen and Stacey at the orphanage in Arequipa, Peru

Some of my orphans enjoying the beach, Peru

My one regret with regards to the Extravaganza blog is that I fear I failed to portray the culture and everyday lives of the people that I encountered everyday…specifically in the poorer areas where life is so different from what we’re used to. I didn’t set out to just write about the tourist spots and what I was doing…I really wanted to give you all a slice of life in the places I visited. Starting in New Orleans, I quickly realized how difficult this task was going to be. As I drove along the Katrina-ravaged coast I was shocked and dumbfounded at how destroyed those areas still were several years later. I wanted to take lots of photos to show everyone how it was…but I couldn’t bring myself to do it. I couldn’t shake the thought that my picture-taking was reducing the lives and troubles of these people to mere entertainment value and I became painfully aware that I could choose to respect their lives or exploit them. Perhaps to the detriment of the blog, I erred on the side of respect.

Fun time at the beach…

So why do I mention this? Well, in all honesty because I fear the words that follow may not carry the weight they might’ve had I been better at showing my readers what I was seeing every day. For all the progress of modern times, South America remains firmly in 2nd world (Chile and Argentina) and 3rd world (Ecuador and Peru) territory complete with the inherent problems of unstable economies and extreme poverty. I don’t want to turn this (already too long) post into a lecture but I implore you to take my word on one thing. If you are reading this now you are likely among the world’s luckiest…born to (or immigrated to) a first world nation where our “problems” are often nothing more than mere annoyances in the grand scheme of things. Only got to take one vacation this year? Be grateful for that…most of the world has never taken a vacation. Didn’t have to stand on the street all day with a baby strapped to your back in hopes of earning a few dollars (or soles, or pesos)? Count yourself lucky. Live in a house made of something other than concrete bricks or corrugated tin? Kiss your mortgage paperwork or landlord the next time you see them…most of the world would give anything to live in your house.

Uros Islands, Lake Titicaca, Peru

Stacey and her hostess on the island of Amantani, Lake Titicaca, Peru

View from the island of Taquile, Lake Titicaca, Peru

Expedition Colca Canyon, Peru

Santa Catalina Convent, Arequipa, Peru

I know that we all know on some abstract that we’re lucky to live where we live and that it’s hard to wrap our heads around the concept of extreme poverty having never seen it. I’m not naïve…I know that the clock on my idealism is quickly dwindling down with each additional day I’m back at home. In a few months I will be just where I was before…worrying about trivial things…contributing to the resource-hogging and capitalist economy that George W. (and the rest of us) need to remain wealthy. If I could ask but one favor of you all it is this…be generous. If not with your money, then with your time. I know we’re busy but everyone has one hour a week to give. One hour a week is all it takes to change someone’s life. And my extra-special plea to the men who are reading…if you are a man who likes kids…I beg of you. Join a mentoring program or volunteer in an after school program…kids (both boys and girls) the world over are starving for male role models. An hour a week really can change someone’s life.

OK, that’s it. Lecture over. Thank you all for reading and allowing me to stray a bit from my normally charming and witty banter.  I swear I’m wrapping up… 

Vulcan Villarica, Pucon, Chile

Now for a few updates from happenings along the way of the Extravaganza…

1. Amy, Alan and Xander (Mile 3847) welcomed Xander’s new little brother Zachary into the world on February 8.  At last report both mom and baby (and Alan and Xander) are doing well.  Congratulations to them.

2.  Also from Mile 3847, my old DC friend Stephanie just got married in a gorgeous ceremony in Barbados on March 15.  Congratulations to her and her new husband Craig.

3.  My cousin JJ’s murderers (Mile 10,143 Part 2) have had their trials postponed yet again.  Kelsey, who is being charged with felony obstruction of justice, will find out her trial date at a May 6th hearing and is out on bond.  Cal who is charged with deliberate murder and felony evidence tampering charges, is being held in the Choteau County jail and will not be tried until October 20. Your continued thoughts for my family would be appreciated.

4.  Matt and Jen (Mile 3510Mile 10,143 Part 2 and the Final Mile)…the Extravaganza’s most mobile readers have relocated to the island of Tasmania off the coast of Australia for the next 1-2 years where Matt is working on a post-doctoral fellowship.  Guess where my next big trip is planned for?

My kids singing to me on my last day at the orphanage, Arequipa, Peru

Julio, Claudia and Eydan, Arequipa, Peru

Valparaiso, Chile

Pucon, Chile

View from Cerro Catedral in Bariloche, Argentina

And finally, since this is about as close as I’ll ever get to an Academy Awards speech…I would like to take this opportunity to thank a few people:

1. First of all, a big thanks to anyone who ever took time out of their busy day to read this blog. I can only hope that you laughed, maybe cried a little (lots of crying reports on the orphanage stories from Home 1), learned something and maybe…just maybe…got inspired to take your own Extravaganza.

2.  To all of the amazing people I met on this trip…and the ones I already knew who made it so memorable.  Thanks to everyone who put me up while I was cruising through the roadtrip phase of the Extravaganza…there are too many to count but I will remember and appreciate each and every one of you.  Also to those who made the Extravaganza all the better with your company…Guillermo, Tori and Stevie, Hanna and Clara, Karen, Conny, Pascal, Claire, Jane and Graham, Femke and Remko, Lindsay, Jonathan, Rob, Jesse, Mary, James and Morag. 

3.  Secondly, to my friends and family…and especially those friends where the lines have long been blurred…thank you for never telling me I’m crazy and that I should stay home whenever I decide to skip the country (even if you actually think so!). You will never know how much your quiet support means to me.

4.  Thirdly, for my most prolific commentors…my mom, Andrea and Jenny. On the days I wished I’d never heard of the Extravaganza Blog I was writing for you three. Thanks for keeping me on track.

5.  And lastly but most importantly, an enormous thanks to the people who manned my Stateside life while I was gallivanting through South America…Colette, Ryan and Karren. The first two I’ve long known have among the biggest hearts on the planet…and the last a new friend who proves how quickly strangers can turn into friends. I could not have taken this trip without of you.

And with that, we here at the Extravaganza blog are signing off. It’s been fun, exciting, occasionally stressful and sad but always an adventure. My very best to all of you…buen viaje mis amigos and as always thanks for reading the Extravaganza blog.

Rose Garden, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Perros waiting to be walked…Buenos Aires, Argentina

James, Mary, Vincent Van Gogh and Jesse, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Morag and Stacey, Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Iguazu Falls from the Brazilian side

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Review Argentina: Puerto Iguazu – Hostel Inn Iguazu (accommodation)

April 10th, 2008

Name: Hostel Inn Iguazu

Location: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina

Address: Ruta 12, Km 5 – Puerto Iguazu; Telephone:  54-3757-421823 / 54-3757-420156

E-mail: reservasiguazu@hostel-inn.com

Website: http://www.hostel-inn.com/

Review:  Hostel Inn-Iguazu is one of a consortium of hostels all over Argentina including Buenos Aires, Bariloche, Tigre and El Calafate.  The grounds of HII are amazing…there is a beautiful and clean swimming pool…the main building is airy, spacious and complete with couches, free internet, pool tables, a restaurant, tables for lounging at and a travel desk.  The reception desk was efficient and helpful and insisted we sit by the pool to relax as we filled out our paperwork.  Shortly thereafter someone from the travel desk came to talk to us about the available tours, transport and activities in the Iguazu area.  He was helpful and not too pushy with the tour selling so we didn’t mind so much.

One great thing about this place is the standard buffet they have every night for 25 pesos though twice a week there is an Argentinian BBQ for 30 pesos and includes free caipirinhas (yum!).  The lunch menu is limited but adequate and prices aren’t too bad considering you’re sort of stuck for easy meals since Hostel Inn is 5 km outside of town.  There’s also a full bar with beer, wine, cocktails and coffee.

Transport is easy and cheap…about 3 pesos into town in a city yellow bus that goes by every half and hour or so.  You can pay for private transport to the falls or take this city bus or a cab.  To get to the Argentinian side it was worth it for the five of us to take a cab for 25 pesos (5 pesos each) as the bus to the falls is about 4 pesos.  The transport with the hostel is maybe 15 or 20 pesos roundtrip…but you must be ready to leave the falls by 4 pm.  When we decided to go to the Brazilian side, paying for the hostel transport at 30 pesos was totally worth it because the driver knew what to do at the various border crossings.

The two downfalls of this place is that it’s a little bit outside of town and I really did not like our room.  Lots of accommodations tend to be outside of town and since there’s a bus it’s no big deal.  We didn’t really hang out in the town (aside from the bus terminal) so it wasn’t too big of a deal…plus there is a taxi stand at the hostel so it’s easy to get a cab as well and they’re pretty cheap.  I don’t know if we just got a bad room or what but our 4 person private was so, so cramped we couldn’t all be in there at once unless we were sleeping.  No one else complained about their rooms so it could just be what we got stuck with but if they had just bunked two of the beds it would’ve been SOOO much better.  There was A/C though which was a necessity as it is boiling hot in Iguazu in March. 

Would I book with them again: Yes, definitely.

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Home 2 – Extravaganza by the Numbers

April 9th, 2008

Crucita, Ecuador

Welcome to the second-to-last post of Stacey’s 30th Birthday Extravaganza.  Now that you are all familiar with my favorites and reflections on a qualitative level I thought it might be fun to collect a few statistics on the trip…and, of course, share my favorite photos from the first 3 months I spent in South America.  Enjoy them both and type to you all on Friday.

Crucita, Ecuador

Stacey paragliding in Crucita, Ecuador

My Ecuadorian Host Family

Cuenca, Ecuador

Cuenca, Ecuador

Roadtrip Statistics

  1. Best Mileage Earned by Stacey’s Beloved Civvy – 42 miles per gallon (Upper Peninsula, Michigan & through the mountains of Montana from Missoula to Fort Benton) 

  2. Total # of Miles Traveled – 12,478 miles

  3. Least Expensive Hotel – Mountain Host Motor Inn, Iron Mountain, Michigan  – $61.20

  4. Most Expensive Hotel – Holiday Inn Express, Boerne, Texas – $152.37

  5. # of States/Provinces Traveled Through – 25 States + District of Columbia + 2 provinces (Quebec and Ontario)

  6. # of generous friends/family who gave me a place to stay – 16 people/families

  7. Persons with the highest number of unique appearances on the blog – Matt and Jen: a.  Mile 3510 for their wedding reception in Ontario b. Mile 10,143 in Montana and c. The Final Mile in Madison before I left for South America

  8. The question everyone wants to know but is too polite to ask Part 1 – “How much did you spend on the Extravaganza Roadtrip?” = $5,610 (over my originally planned budget of $5000)

Vilcabamba, Ecuador

Conny and Stacey in Vilcabamba, Ecuador

Penguin in the Galapagos Islands

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

South America Statistics

  1. # of countries visited – 5 (Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Argentina and Brazil (one day))

  2. Total # of miles traveled – 8,890 miles

  3. Least Expensive Hotel – Chicago Hostel, Quito Ecuador – $9 per night for a single room

  4. Most Expensive Hotel Hotel Pakaritampu, Ollantaytambo, Peru -$104 total (my and Lindsay’s Sacred Valley splurge)

  5. # of people throughout the entire trip who referred to me as señora (lady) rather than señorita (young lady)  – 2 (both men)

  6. # of times I went to McDonalds – 5 – And most of those trips were in the last month because there was one down the street from my apartment in Buenos Aires.  No matter where you are, McDonald’s is almost always the cheapest…but perhaps more importantly…is frequently the only place to get coffee to-go.

  7. Average wages for various workers in South America (data was collected anecdotally): a.  My Ecuadorian host-mother Camila (US$1000 per month), b. Workers in the jungle in charge of zip-lines and various tasks (400 soles (approx. US$134 per month) c.  Luxury bus hosts in Chile that are similar to flight attendants (US$400 per month)

  8. The question everyone wants to know but is too polite to ask Part 2 – “How much did you spend on the Extravaganza in South America?” = $11,217 (over my originally planned budget of $10,000.  Mostly due to going to Chile (expensive) rather than Bolivia (super-cheap) and taking $500 worth of unplanned flights)

My home in the Galapagos…Nemo II Catamaran

Sunset in the Galapagos

Stacey and a Giant Tortoise

Underwater in the Galapagos…

Baby sea lions…

…and Blue-Footed Boobies

Blog Statistics

  1. Total # of posts – 79 (as of today); 81 (including this one and the final post on Friday)

  2. Total # of comments (as of this post) – 171

  3. Total # of hits on the Extravaganza blog – 45, 291 (including 11,010 unique IP address hits)

  4. Day of the week with the highest number of hits – Tie between Monday and Friday with 15.25% each

  5. Month of the Extravaganza with the largest # of hits – January (7,971 hits – 17% of all hits were in January)

  6. Most active commenters (as of today) – 1. Mom (34 comments) 2. Andrea (30 comments) 3. Jenny (13 comments)

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

Lindsay and the city of Cusco, Peru

Ollantaytambo, Peru

The Sacred Valley of the Incas, Peru

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Home 1 – Reflections

April 5th, 2008

Ryan, Colette and Amber…with Stacey taking the photo at “The Bean” in Millenium Park in Chicago, Illinois

Hi everyone…sorry for yet another delay.  Getting one’s life back on track is a little more time-consuming than I originally realized so things have been lagging here at the Extravaganza.  Never fear, I’m back on track and after this post there are two more to go so everyone should gear up for the final week of the Extravaganza.  So…for this post I’ve gone through all of my old pictures from phase 1 of the trip…the North American Roadtrip.  Some of the pictures you may have seen before and others I don’t believe I included the first time around.  For content I’ve devoted some time to reflecting on all of the things I’ve done in the past 9 months and picked out some favorites, recommendations and general thoughts. 

Mackinac Bridge, Michigan

Jared and Stacey at a Tigers’ game in Detroit, Michigan

View of Montreal from Archeological Museum in Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Stacey and Erik in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Best Value Hotel

  1. North America – Hotel Omni Mont-Royal – Montreal, Quebec, Canada – Great deal on an upscale hotel in Montreal (snagged via Hotwire.  Be sure to see my tips about getting good deals on Hotwire in “Trip Info” way at the bottom).
  2. South America – Izhcayluma – Vilcabamba, Ecuador – 4 star place at backpackers prices with amazing views of the Andean village of Vilcabamba, great food, cheap massage and Reiki (eg. $12 full body massage) and lots of tours organized.

Coolest place I stayed

  1. NA – The Elliot House Inn – Charleston, SC
  2. SA – Camilo Henriquez 749, Casa 6 – Valdivia, Chile – Crazy, tumble-down mansion (from the 1960 earthquake) that feels like it could fall over any minute with a decorating scheme from the late 1800s.  Totally interesting place though with a friendly live-in manager and two adorable little puffy dogs.

Worst place I stayed (in value and general all-around badness)

  1. NA – America’s Best Value Inn (dubbed Hotel Hell by Tori and Stevie) – Santa Maria, CA
  2. SA – Even at $9 per night…nothing I stayed in in South America came close to Hotel Hell.

Night view of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

“Please Never Make Me Go Back There Award”

  1. NA – Santa Maria, CA – see awful hotel above.  Plus there is nothing there.  And by nothing I mean nothing.
  2. SA – Puerto Montt, Chile – This is where those crazy ladies kept grabbing me in an attempt to get me to give money to their “gypsy” babies.

Favorite State/Country

  1. Vermont/New Hampshire – Tie for these two adorable New England States.  I really love New England in general but these are my favorites.
  2. Argentina – I feel almost guilty not picking the others because I liked all four countries I visited in South America.  The edge goes to Argentina though as it’s the only one I could picture myself living in for a long time (and the amazing food and wine helps too).
  3. World War II Memorial Washington, DC

    Amy and Xander at the Washington Monument, Washington, DC

    Amy, Xander and Alan at home in Arlington, Virginia

    Stephanie, Amy and Stacey in Tyson’s Corner, Virginia

    Colonial Williamsburg, Williamsburg, Virginia

    View of the harbor in Charleston, South Carolina

The Most Overrated Tourist Locale

  1. NA – Niagara Falls, Ontario – See my diatribe here for further explanation:  Mile 1755.
  2. SA –Quito, Ecuador – In my opinion, Quito is a hell-hole…but I might be biased because I was pickpocketed there.  Still you must go to Quito as it’s a close and cheap entrance point to South America and while there isn’t much to see in Quito itself there are lots of things to see AROUND it (eg. Mitad del Mundo (equator), Otavalo Market, Banos, etc.).

The Most Underrated Location

  1. NA – Detroit, MI – Go with a local and make sure you take in a Tiger’s game. 
  2. SA – Valdivia, Chile – A very cool , chill college town not normally on the gringo trail.  Definitely worth a stop though.

Best Meal

  1. NA – 82 Queen RestaurantCharleston, SC – Calamari Po’ Boy with Crab Bisque soup.  About 3000 calories in one sitting but totally worth it.
  2. SA – Marumbo (or something close) – halfway down the beach in Crucita, Ecuador – Shrimp with an amazing garlic sauce.  Yummy.
  3. Gum Rock at Stone Mountain, Atlanta, Georgia

    Tori and Stevie at Moonlight Beach, Encinitas, California

    Balboa Park, San Diego, California

    Tori and Stevie on the Pacific Coast Highway

    Jellyfish in the Monterey Bay Aquarium in Monterey, California

Favorite Spanish Word – faltar (verb) – literally means “to miss” or “to lack” something.  The beauty is in its use in expressions like:

  1. “Falta poco.” – literally:  “Little lacks.”  Better English translation:  “There’s only a little bit left.” eg. distance, time, etc.
  2. “Falta pagar.” – literally:  “You lack paying.” Better English translation:  “You didn’t pay for that item.” (I heard this one in the supermarket in Buenos Aires)
  3. “Falta mucho todavia.” – literally: “Much (time, etc.) lacks yet.” Better English translation: “There’s plenty of time yet.”
  4. “Falta el conductor.” – literally: “The driver lacks.”  Better English translation:  “The driver isn’t here yet.”

View of the San Francisco Skyline from Alcatraz Island, San Francisco, California

Word in English I Missed the Most While Learning Spanish – “was” – There are at least 4 Spanish versions of the word “was” to pick from: estaba, estuve, era and fue.  Add in the subjunctive forms (eg. estuviera, etc. ) and it’s enough to make a girl want to slit her wrists.

Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, California

Granny Goose, Aunt Marlena and Cousin Sheila at Sheila’s 35th Birthday Surprise Party, Portland, Oregon

Cousin Sheila and Stacey at the party…Portland, Oregon

Stacey’s stepdad Tony and mom Maxine, Pablo, Montana

Stew and Faye (one of my most devoted readers) in Pablo, Montana

Things I Will Miss the Most About South America

  1. In Ecuador and Peru – Fresh-squeezed juice – An amazing array of tropical fruits that are always, always fresh-squeezed.  I’m not normally a juice-drinker but fresh-squeezed is amazing.
  2. In Chile and Argentina – Cheap, good quality wine – Because so little wine is exported (90% of Argentinian wine remains in the country for consumption) there is little need for preservatives which lead to the inevitable wine headache.  Better yet, most wines from Mendoza are by definition organic as the climate doesn’t encourage plant diseases or insect infestations.
  3. In Ecuador and Peru – Friendly People – Chileans and Argentinians are not unfriendly but the Ecuadorians and Peruvians are a happy, friendly bunch despite the extreme poverty common in both countries.
  4. Everywhere – cheap prices as compared to the U.S. and Europe.  It was nice to be able to treat myself to an amazing meal every once and a while and not worry about the cost.
  5. Everywhere – laundry service – There is nothing better than dropping off all of your nasty, dirty laundry in the morning and picking it up clean and folded in the afternoon…all for the low, low price of $3 (Ecuador) to $10 (Argentina).

Things I Will NOT Miss about South America

  1. South American time – Generally runs about an hour behind “real time.”
  2. The amount of attention I attracted as a tall, blond gringa – I look forward to blending in a bit here at home.  The attention is sort of flattering but tiresome at the same time.  And if I never hear the annoying hiss that Ecuadorian men do to attract my attention it will be too soon.
  3. In Ecuador and Perurice – Dear god…everything is served with rice.  And I mean everything…including pasta. 
  4. In Ecuador and Peru – andean cheese – This cheesehead was suffering badly as the only thing available that might be construed as cheese is a rubbery, white cheese referred to as “queso andino.”

Sister Lindsay and Aunt Joanie preparing for Granny’s 75th birthday party in Fort Benton, Montana

The Hankins Seven + Granny at the birthday party…Fort Benton, Montana

Missouri River in autumn, Fort Benton, Montana

Things I Will Never Again Take For Granted

  1. Hot water, hot water, hot water – Need I say more?
  2. The “order” of a westernized country –  Here at home problems are handled in an orderly fashion and there is a procedure for everything.  In Third World Countries you get corruption and police who hit on gringo theft victims (I know 3 different girls this happened to) and a general feeling that you’re fending for yourself.
  3. The ability to get change from stores – Sounds weird but it is nearly impossible to pay for things with large bills (or even semi-large bills) anywhere in South America as there is a chronic shortage of change.  I still find myself working out my “change” strategy now that I’m home where it’s no longer necessary to do so.
  4. Napkins and papertowels that are actually useful – In Peru and Ecuador napkins resemble a single sheet of one-ply toilet paper and in Argentina they resemble small sheets of wax paper.  Chile stands alone as being the only country with functional napkins.
  5. Hot water – Did I mention hot water?

Best Typical Food by Country (South America Only)

  1. Ecuador – ceviche – Seafood, fish and vegetables (mostly onion) marinated in lime juice with cilantro and other spices; Humitas – ground corn steamed in corn leaves (kind of like a tamale); chifles – plantains sliced into rounds and fried.  Often to replace potato chips or french fries.
  2. Peru – lomo saltado – stir-fried beef with onions, vinegar, ginger, chile, tomatoes and fried potatos served with rice.  Andean trout (trucha in Spanish) – Every bit of trout I had in the Andes was amazing (including in Ecuador).   
  3. Chile – all of the seafood – There was amazing seafood to be had in Chile especially mussels (cholgas), hake fish (merluza) and stews of various meats (cazuelas).  Also awesome and a specialty of the island of Chiloe is curanto which is a meat, shellfish and potato stew traditionally cooked in a hole in the ground.
  4. Argentina – Sorrentinos – homemade pasta similar to ravioles except traditionally filled with ham and cheese; medialunas (halfmoons in Spanish) – mini croissants glazed with sugar and served for breakfast.

Favorite Moments

  1. Roadtrip – The Pittsburgh Pirates game surrounding by the beautiful lit-up city bridges and with old friends from DC and San Diego. 

  2. Roadtrip – Boogie-boarding with the kids at Moonlight beach in Encinitas. 

  3. Roadtrip – Boat ride from Alcatraz to San Francisco with Tori and Stevie and the amazing skyline of San Francisco, the Bay Bridge and the Golden Gate Bridge in view. 

  4. Galapagos Trip – Galapagos, Ecuador – Waking up early with a cup of coffee in hand as a pod of dolphins (around 30) surrounding the boat and swimming along with us.  

  5. Inka Trail (Deadwoman’s Pass) – Inka Trail, Peru – Reaching the highest pass on the trail with my sister.

  6. Night bus back from Puno – Puno to Arequipa, Peru – After a fun weekend visit to Lake Titicaca I took my first night bus home to Arequipa so I could make it to the orphanage on time the next day.  The bus left at 11pm and a very enormous indigenous woman in traditional dress got on the bus with several very enormous bags of blankets.  I was wondering why she hadn’t put them in the luggage hold below the bus when she started walking around and distributing blankets to everyone on the bus.  That was great, actually, as it is cold, cold, cold in Puno and environs so I appreciated the gesture though assumed I would be expected to tip when she collected them back.  You see, Peruvians have truly perfected the art of extracting money from other people…a tip is expected for nearly everything (including having your picture taken with someone traditionally dressed) and believe me, you know it when a tip is expected.  At the end of the ride, the woman walked around the bus collecting blankets but no tips…a true act of kindness.

  7. The Orphanage Part 1 – Arequipa, Peru – About a week after I started volunteering in the orphanage, three new kids showed up:  Victor Angel (age 8), Rosa (age 4) and Julio (age 2).  Despite the fact that the kids were pulled for extreme abuse at the hands of their parents they wanted to go home (as nearly every kid in this situation does).  The first few days passed with Victor Angel struggling to find a way to escape and while his siblings were growing acustomed to the home Victor Angel was still struggling.  One afternoon I was up on the roof alone with some of the older kids (there’s an open play area and the laundry up there) when Victor Angel throws his jacket over the wall to the next door neighbor’s roof and takes off.  I was having a mild heart attack but the surprising and amazing thing was the kids’ reactions.  They were livid.  All of them were saying to Victor Angel “What are you doing?  This is a really good home and we are lucky to be living here so stop trying to escape.”  I nearly started crying.  Whenever someone asks me if working in the orphanage was sad…I always think of these kids and how happy they are to be there.

  8. The Orphanage Part 2 – Arequipa, Peru – All too soon it was time for me to depart the orphanage and on my last day I showed up to a less than enthusiastic welcome.  Generally when an adult walks in the room, all of the kids get up and one-by-one greet us with an “Hola” and kiss on the left cheek.  When I walked in on my last day, however, the kids all scattered.  “What’s going on?”  I asked one of the other volunteers.  “They’re wrapping presents,” he said.  Not realizing it was someone’s birthday I asked whose it was.  “No one’s.  They’re wrapping good-bye presents for you.”  Sure enough, these little kids who have absolutely nothing of their own wrapped some of the orphanage’s most prized toys up for my going-away gifts.  I was amazed and humbled…especially when I read the cards and letters they wrote for me several of which are now hanging up in my office. I know the pictures on this post are supposed to all be from the roadtrip, but I can’t help posting this previously unpublished picture of my “gift-opening.”

 Last day at the orphanage, Arequipa, Peru

                        Last day at the orphanage, Arequipa, Peru

9.  Cerro Catedral – Bariloche, Argentina –  The views from the top of this ski-hill are amazing and mesmerizing.  With a book and a cup of coffee I was able to wile away nearly two hours.

10.  Dinner with friends – Buenos Aires, Argentina – As many of you know, the last week of my trip I was joined by two friends from England…James (whom I met while traveling in Spain) and Morag.  Together with two new friends from Argentina…Jesse and Mary…the five of us headed out to the Las Canitas area of Buenos Aires for a nice dinner.  It was in that moment that I was reminded that while traveling and while at home…the only thing a person really needs are good friends (or family), good food, good conversation…and a little bit of wine never hurt either. 

That’s it for now.  What’s up next you ask?  Well, I wouldn’t be much of a statistical programmer if I didn’t compile some statistics on this trip so stay tuned for that post…followed by next Friday’s 31st birthday Finale.  Have a good weekend everyone!

    Jen and Matt hiking in the mountains near Flathead Lake, Montana

    Stacey and Jen on Wild Horse Island, Flathead Lake, Montana

    Jen and Matt on Wild Horse Island, Flathead Lake, Montana

    (from left) Angie, Erin, Sarah, Sarah, Colette and Stacey at Stacey’s Going Away Outing, Madison, Wisconsin

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Argentina 8 – Poor Niagara!

March 29th, 2008

Our first view of the falls…

Those of you who were with me way back at Mile 1755 for Niagara Falls may recall that I was less than impressed.  In reality, it wasn’t the falls that disappointed but rather the rampant commercialism that was impossible to escape…especially on the Canadian side.  Needless to say I wasn’t really sure what to expect with the famed Iguazu Falls that lie on the border of Argentina and Brazil.  Many people throughout South American had told me that the falls were spectacular, though admittantly very touristy.  As it turns out…the legions of Iguazu fans were correct in both regards…they were a bit touristy…but totally spectacular.

James on the bus ride to Iguazu

For my last week in South America I was joined by my dear friend James and his friend from university Morag..both from England.  James and I met nearly 7 years ago in Spain when we were both studying Spanish and have remained great friends ever since.  We decided several months ago that my last weekend would be an opportune time to head to Iguazu Falls and in the meantime we added two other special guest stars…Jesse and Mary from my Spanish courses in Buenos Aires.  On Friday night the five of us headed out on one of Argentina’s famed luxury buses for an 18 hour overnight trip to the falls where we planned to spend the weekend.  

Mary and Jesse

Some of the smaller falls

Moi

It is rumored that upon first seeing Iguazu Falls, Eleanor Roosevelt remarked “Poor Niagara!”  And indeed she had a point.  Vastly larger than North America’s Niagara Falls, Iguazu is rivalled only by Southern Africa’s Victoria Falls which separates Zambia and Zimbabwe (this is excluding extremely large rapid-like falls such as the Boyoma Falls). While Iguazu is wider because it is split into about 270 discrete falls and large islands, Victoria is the largest curtain of water in the world, at over a 1600 m wide and over 100 m (350 ft) in height (in low flow Victoria is split into five by islands; in high flow it can be uninterrupted).  The Iguazu waterfall system consists of 275 falls along 2.7 kilometres (1.67 miles) of the Iguazu River.  Some of the individual falls are up to 82 metres (269 ft) in height, though the majority are about 64 metres (210 ft). The Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat in English; Garganta do Diabo in Portuguese), a U-shaped 150-metre-wide and 700-metre-long (490 by 2300 feet) cliff, is the most impressive of all, and marks the border between Argentina and Brazil. Two thirds of the falls are within Argentine territory.  About 900 metres of the 2.7-kilometre length does not have water flowing over it. The edge of the basalt cap recedes only 3 mm per year.

Some fauna (sorry the critter pics are a bit fuzzy)

Don’t know the name but these blue and yellow bird are everywhere

Part of the raccoon family

Crocodile…or alligator?

The water falling over Iguazu in peak flow has a surface area of about 40 ha (1.3 million ft²) whilst Victoria in peak flow has a surface area of over 55 ha (1.8 million ft²).  By comparison, Niagara has a surface area of under 18.3 ha (600,000 ft²). Victoria’s annual peak flow is also greater than Iguazu’s annual peak—9 100 m³/s versus 6 500—though in times of extreme flood the two have recorded very similar maximum water discharge (well in excess of 12 000 m³/s). Niagara’s annual peak flow is about 2 800 m³/s, although an all-time peak of 6 800 has been recorded.  Iguazu and Victoria fluctuate more greatly in their flow rate. Mist rises between 30 and 150 m (100 and 500 ft) from Iguazu’s Garganta do Diabo, and over 300 m (1,000 ft) above Victoria (sometimes over 600 m).  Iguazu Falls have been know to dry up completely…most notably when a spectacular party had been planned for the opening of a fancy hotel in the area…no water at all actually crossed over the falls.  This is said to be quite rare as it only happens every few decades and usually only lasts a few weeks at most. 

From the Brazilian side

Iguazu, however, affords better views and walkways than Vic Falls and its shape allows for spectacular vistas. At one point a person can stand and be surrounded by 260 degrees of waterfalls. The Garganta do Diabo has water pouring into it from three sides. Likewise, because Iguazu is split into many relatively small falls, one can view these a portion at a time. Victoria does not allow this, as it is essentially one waterfall that falls into a canyon and is too immense to appreciate at once (except from the air).  Indeed when standing above “Garganta del Diablo” you feel as though you can reach out and touch the massive amount of water flower over the cliff.  Unfortunately the below picture does not do it justice as it is simply too vast to get all in one photo…the shots from the Brazilian side offer a better and more impressive close-up view of The Garganta. 

Garganta del Diablo from close-up

Jesse, Morag and James

While I had heard that the falls were touristy I was actually very impressed with how well-done the park is.  The bulk of the falls lie on the Argentina side and since there are so many individual falls in different locations there are lots of walkways and things to do in the park.  You can take a boat to one of the islands and wander around the trails complete with spectacular miradores (viewpoints) as well as much flora and fauna.  Perhaps the highlight of the day, although only a 10 minute activity, was taking a boat underneath several of the falls and getting completely drenched under the pounding and spray of the water.  The Argentinian side is huge and easily has a full day’s worth of activities.  Despite the fact that we were there on one of the busiest days of the year (Easter Sunday) the park never felt oppressive as it did in Niagara.  My advice though to future goers:  do the Lower Circuit first with the boat ride early in the morning to beat the crowds and endless lines.

Jesse and James before our dousing under the falls

On Monday James, Morag and I headed to Brazil for a few hours to get a more panoramic view of the falls.  Unfortunately for Jesse and Mary they did not have visas for Brazil so were going to find it hard to get in.  I had my visa from a few years ago and as citizens of the UK, James and Morag didn’t need a visa.  The park on the Brazilian side is also very nice though much smaller and most of the sites can be viewed in the span of a few hours.  Perhaps the greatest thing on the Brazilian side is being able to get reasonably close to the Garganta del Diablo and a panoramic view of all of the Argentina side. The pictures in this regard should do it justice.

The calm of the water above the falls is deceptive…

And finally, after a 21 hour bus ride, 3 hours in the airport, a 11.5 hour plane ride and 3 hours on the Van Galder I made it home to Cimarron Trail in good form.  Indeed there is less snow than I expected but it is cold, cold, cold here compared to 5 days ago when I was in the jungle.  Just a reminder to keep the Extravaganza bookmarked until April 11 when I will post my final thoughts on this trip.  Have a great weekend everyone!

View of the Garganta from Brazil

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Argentina 7 – Tigre

March 19th, 2008

On the Rio…

My days being numbered here in Buenos Aires, I find myself trying to squeeze in all of the stuff I have had a full month to do…but of course waited until the last minute to do.  One interesting attraction that many have mentioned is a trip to Tigre on the Paraná Delta just outside the city limits of Buenos Aires.  The Delta is an interesting confluence of rivers that ultimately empty into the Rio de la Plata river…the one that separates Argentina from Uruguay.  It is said that the area of the Paraná Delta reminds many of the Florida Everglades though I was only able to visit the town of Tigre on a small part of the Delta and wasn’t able to see the resemblance. 

Pics of the “graveyard”

Regardless, Tigre is a an interesting town in the Buenos on the Paraná Delta and is an important tourist and weekend attraction, easily reached by bus and train services, including the scenic Tren de la Costa. It is the principle town of the Tigre Partido.  The town sits on an island created by several small streams and rivers and was founded in 1820, after floods had destroyed other settlements in the area, then known as the Las Conchas Partido.  The area’s name derives from the “tigres” or jaguars that were hunted there, on occasions, in its early years. The area was first settled by Europeans who came to farm the land, and the port developed to serve the Delta and to bring fruit and wood from the Delta and ports upstream on the Paraná river. Tigre is still an important timber processing port. The “Puerto de Frutos” (fruit port) is now a crafts fair located in the old fruit market by the riverside.

A less well-kept house…

…in contrast to a better-kept house

Not sure what this is but it is a gorgeous building

As high season is winding to a close there weren’t as many boat trip options through the delta so I was only able to take one of about an hour.  This was an out-and-back route so unfortunately I wasn’t able to see as much of the delta as I would a longer circular route.  Despite that, the pictures of the area are interesting and beautiful…the first part of the delta appears to be largely a graveyard for old ships as many of them  sit within the rivers rusting away.  Lots of people live on the delta as well…some in beautiful and well-kept houses while others appear to be barely standing upright next door.  The canals are interesting and quite beautiful though the river water is a delightful shade brown that reminds me quite thoroughly of the Missouri River. 

Cruisin’ the Delta

A canal off of the main river

In town…

All in all an interesting place to take a day trip though I wish I had had more time to delve into the Paraná Delta including the National Park Predelta or the Biosphere Reserve as the pictures are amazing.  I can certainly recommend Tigre though if you’re thinking about heading to the Tigre and environs maybe look into some more in-depth trips to the Delta that include a national park and maybe a lengthier boat ride.  Enjoy the photos!

Produce and handicraft market

By now everyone knows that things are coming to an end here at the Extravaganza and I’m fielding lots of questions about when I’ll be returning.  I’m slated to arrive at O´Hare International Airport at 5:05 am on Wednesday morning March 26th (direct from Buenos Aires…yay!).  I don’t suppose any of my faithful readers want to pick me up from the airport and spare me the Van Galder trip back to Madison?  What?  No takers?  Ok then, with any luck I’ll be typing to you all from the great Mad City sometime next week.

In the Delta Paraná

Now, lest you think the Extravaganza is coming to an end right here and now…never fear.  I’ve a few more posts up my sleeve not the least of which will be one from Iguazu Falls that I will be visiting this weekend with James, Morag, Jesse and Mary.  I’m not sure how the Internet situation will be in Iguazu so that post may not happen until I’m Stateside again so expect a bit of an Extravaganza delay this week.  Also, I have a few final posts to write after I sift through hundreds of pictures…selecting my favorites and reflecting on everything I’ve done in the past 9 months.  And really, I would be one hell of a lousy statistical programmer if I didn’t compile some statistics on this trip so watch for that as well.  All in all, I think it most fitting that Stacey’s 30th Birthday Extravaganza should come to an end on my 31st birthday…April 11 for the uninformed so keep me bookmarked until at least that day for my parting comments.

And finally wrapping up things today…I was recently lamenting the sorry state of my Spanish when I decided to do a little research on languages and discovered the following bits of information to entertain and intrigue you all with:

Random Facts About World Languages

  1. Language with the greatest number of native speakers:  Mandarin Chinese.

  2. Number of living languages: 6912

  3. Number of those languages that are nearly extinct: 516.

  4. Language spoken by the greatest number of non-native speakers:  English.

  5. Languages spoken by largest numbers of native speakers:  Mandarin Chinese followed by Spanish and English which are almost exactly equal.  Add in the non-native speakers of English and English wins the more speakers prize.

  6. Oldest written language still in existence:  Chinese or Greek (about 1500 BC).

  7. Language with the most words:  English (about 250,000 different words).

  8. The most translated document in the history of the world (amazingly, not the bible): Universal Declaration Of Human Rights, written by the United Nations in 1948, has been translated into 321 languages and dialects.

  9. The longest word in the English language: pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis (45 letters).

  10. In the US, the 28 million people who speak Spanish at home is well over half of the approximately 47 million people who speak a language other than English at home, meaning Spanish is spoken by more people than all other languages combined within the U.S. 

  11. Number of nations where Spanish is the prominent language:  21 (Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, Equatorial Guinea, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico, Nicaragua, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Puerto Rico, Spain, Uruguay, Venezuela)
     

The main canal and boat launch

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Argentina 6 – Hodgepodge en el estilo de Buenos Aires

March 14th, 2008

Chicos…so sorry for my delayed posting but as the trip winds down I’m finding it difficult to muster energy to blog.  En realidad, it’s amazing I made it this long before losing steam so I hope everyone will bear with me as I try to get things wrapped up.  I’ve really been enjoying my relaxing time here in BsAs and have even enjoyed my Spanish classes…in part because of some really great teachers but also because I was put in a group with Jesse, a fellow midwesterner from Michigan, who was a really fun guy to have class with.  Lucky for us all, Jesse will be making a special guest star appearance next weekend when a group of us (including everyone’s favorite Englishman James) all head to Iguazu Falls for the Easter weekend so stay tuned for that.  Also, now may be a good time to confess that I don’t think I’ll be making it to Uruguay this trip despite the fact that it’s a mere hour by boat across the river.  Unfortunately I didn’t plan my weekends well and have now run out of time to make the cost of the boat trip worth it.  By all accounts the places I was planning to go in BsAs are missable so I don’t think the Extravaganza will be ruined by my oversight.  Well, I hope not anyway.

Perros waiting for their walker to pick up another friend

Look…these doggies all match!

Ok, back to the blog.  I must warn you all right off the bat that this post is probably not going to be all that coherent and certainly will not contain a specific theme.  As it turns out, I haven’t been doing too much lately that is blogworthy plus I have a couple of things I wanted to share with you all that don’t require a full post plus some random phots of BsAs so that is how we arrived at this hodgepodgy post.

These are pictures of the 2nd most beautiful bookstore in the world (after one in London) that is housed in an old theater on Avenida Santa Fe

By now you are probably all wondering what is the deal with the pictures of the packs of dogs with walkers.  Well, I’ll tell you…I asked the very same thing upon arrival in BsAs as they are everywhere in the city…and especially the swanky neighborhood of Recoleta.  Apparently the position of dog-walker is quite a good gig to have as it is comparatively well-paid and requires little continuous effort…only a committment to walk each dog twice a day every day.  Among the wealthier set in BsAs it is prestigous to have your dog walked by someone else and indeed necessary as people work all day and live in apartments.  The walkers pick up the dogs door-to-door at their houses, take them to the park to play around for a while and deliver them back to their apartments later.  Typically the walkers have 8 to 10 dogs at a time and it’s amazing to see how well all of the various dogs of different breed, size and shape appear to get along.  Indeed, if you are a dog, it must be more fun to hang out with other dogs than by yourself in your swanky apartment.  Just thought you guys might be interested in some canine information…enjoy the photos. 

Pictures from La Boca

Stacey and Wayne having a beer in La Boca

Next up in the hodgepodge…the BsAs neighborhood of La Boca.  La Boca is best known for being the neighborhood where the famous South American football team the Boca Juniors resides.  The Boca Juniors fans are a rowdy bunch and I have it on good account that the games are positively nuts and the fans wildly devoted.  In addition to this infamy, La Boca is also known for being the roughest and poorest neighborhood in central Buenos Aires despite the fact that its main drag is also a major tourist attraction.  In the main street of El Caminito you’ll find lots of brightly painted buildings that seem to be a cross between the French Quarter in New Orleans and Valparaiso, Chile with all of its brightly painted buildings.

A rundown section of La Boca…

…in comparison to the gussied up tourist section

In the 19th century this area was the settlement of genoese (Italian descent) sailors and port workers who founded a friendly society structure that originated poets, musicians and plastic artists.  As I mentioned, this barrio is best known for its football team, Boca Juniors, for whom the legendary Diego Maradona played, but also for its multi-coloured wooden and corrugated iron houses. The houses were built and painted by the resident dock-workers, of mainly Italian descent, who used leftover materials and paint from the ships. The most famous street, Calle Caminito, possesses the best of the painted houses and is where artists, street performers and tango dancers congregate daily.  Tango was developed in this neighbourhood and, in the 1920s, children from wealthy families would come here to dance the dance banned elsewhere in Buenos Aires.

Making empanadas at school on my last day

And speaking of tango…I had seen a bit of it in the streets and in some touristy areas but finally decided to venture out with my English friend Wayne to see an actual show.  Most will agree the shows are all pretty touristy but the dancing is of high quality and very entertaining.  We opted to go to the show in the famous Cafe Tortoni which was a haven in years past for famous Argentinian and European writers.  Unfortunately none of my pictures from the show turned out so I’m snaking these from other places so you can get an idea of what things look like.  I really, really enjoyed the show and was a little surprised at the fact that I found myself completely mesmerized by the story and the dancing and all too soon it was over.  

Tango examples

There is much debate over the origin of the tango though it is largely agreed upon that it started out in the late 1800s in the bars and brothels of Buenos Aires as a dance between men while they waited for their prostitutes.  The dance was considered to be quite scandalous for those times as it requires very intimate contact and the music has a very sensual quality to it.  Up until the 1920s it was largely danced in secret as it was looked down upon by many…until the Parisians took a liking to it and popularity of the tango soared and spread world-wide.  Los porteños have always emulated what was done in Paris whether it was architecture, fashion or trends in dancing.  Regardless of the origin and its touristy quality, a tango show is an absolute must when in Buenos Aires.

OK, that’s it for now.  I’ve got lots of things coming up that will hopefully inspire me to blog some more.  Of all bizarre things to do I’m off to a Bob Dylan concert tomorrow night with friends from my school.  Nos vemos chicos!

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Review Argentina: Buenos Aires – BASI Language Institute (Spanish school)

March 14th, 2008

Name: BASI Language Institute

Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Address: 90 Talcahuano Street

E-mail: info@basi-spanish.com

Website: http://www.basi-spanish.com/english/courses.htm

Review:  The BASI school is well located in the central part of Buenos Aires near to several subway stops as well as many bus lines.  The school itself is not very large which makes for a cozy and friendly atmosphere.  BASI offers both individual and group classes and should you want group classes but find no one else is at your level they’ll work with you to find a solution.  Generally though there are enough people around at different levels that getting into a group is not a problem.

The director of the school is extremely nice and friendly and speaks English well so if you are not confident with your Spanish no worries.  Perhaps the best thing about the school is the quality of the teachers.  In two weeks I had two different teachers, Cecelia and Andrea and both were excellent.  Other students mentioned their teachers were very good too as well as fun which makes a big difference when one is torturing themselves by attempting to learn a new language.

Maybe one downfall is that, unlike many other Spanish schools, I didn’t see any organized activities though the teachers have been known to go out with their students for dinner and/or drinks after class.  On the last day of classes this week we made empanadas in class and cooked them complete with recipe in Spanish and lots of explanation on the “proper” Argentinian way to put together an empanada.  Overall, the school is great and the teachers knowledgeable, capable and especially friendly.  I definitely recommend BASI to anyone in BsAs looking to improve their Spanish as the price is reasonable…US$130 for 20 hours of class.

Would I book with them again: Yes, definitely.

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Argentina 5 – El Cementerio de la Recoleta

March 9th, 2008

Perhaps somewhat strangely, one of the biggest tourist draws in Buenos Aires is that of the famous cemetery in the swanky neighborhood of Recoleta (which also happens to be my neighborhood in BsAs…Recoleta, not the cemetery!).  I’ve always been a little fascinated with cemeteries and tombstones…especially the very old ones where you can’t even read the dates anymore.  My mom always told me that was

morbid but I think even she would agree that this particular cemetery is truly spectactular.  La Recoleta Cemetery is a famous cemetery located in the exclusive Recoleta neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, Argentina. The layout of the cemetery was designed by the French engineer Próspero Catelin in 1822, and was remodeled in 1881, while Torcuato de Alvear was mayor of the city, by the Italian architect Juan Antonio Buschiazzo.

One of the cats from the colony…

The Cemetery includes graves of some of the most influential and important persons of Argentina, including several presidents, scientists, and wealthy characters. Internationally, Eva Perón is the best known person buried in this cemetery.  The entrance to the cemetery is through neo-classical gates with tall Greek columns. The cemetery contains many elaborate marble mausoleums, decorated with statues, in a wide variety of architectural styles. The entire cemetery is laid out in sections like city blocks, with wide tree-lined main walkways branching into sidewalks filled with mausoleums.

While many of the mausoleums are in fine shape and well-maintained, others have fallen into disrepair. Several can be found with broken glass, littered with rubbish, and on occasion you might find a mausoleum being used as a janitorial supply closet, with cleaning and maintenance products stored on top of coffins.  Each mausoleum bears the family name etched into the facade; brass or bronze plaques are added to the front for particular family members. La Recoleta is one of those cemeteries where the tradition of engraving a death date but no birth date has been maintained.  Similar to the Botanical Garden, one interesting and unique aspect of La Recoleta is a colony of feral cats that resides within the gates. Although they can be spotted anytime, they tend to gather in groups of dozens near closing-time, when some locals feed them.

As we have just learned, the most internationally famous person buried here is Eva Peron…made famous to most by Madonna’s “Evita” movie and corresponding hit song.  For those who do not remember, Eva Peron was the controversial second wife of Argentina’s president Juan Peron in the 1940s and 50s…who, among other things,  sought to run for Vice President of Argentina while her husband was in office.  Sadly, she died in August of 1952 at the young age of 33 of advanced uterine and cervical cancer…despite a radical hysterectomy and being the first Argentinian to ever undergo chemotherapy.

Eva Peron buried in her family’s mausoleum

Among other interesting…though surely less famous figures to occupy Recoleta Cemetery is that of poor Rufina Cambaceres, a young woman who was buried alive in the early 1900s. She had perhaps suffered a coma, and a few days after her interment, workers heard screams from the tomb. Once opened, there were scratches on her face and on the coffin from trying to escape. Her mother then built this Art Nouveau masterpiece, which has become a symbol of the cemetery. Her coffin is a Carrara marble slab, carved with a rose on top, and it sits behind a glass wall, as if her mother wanted to make up for her mistake in burying her and make sure to see her coffin if she were ever to come back again. Adorned by a young girl carved of marble who turns her head to those watching her, she looks as if she is about to break into tears, and her right hand is on the door of her own tomb.

Rufina’s tomb…

Tomb of the Paz family…the angels were sculpted in Paris and sent over by ship

Recoleta Cemetery reminds me a lot of the cemeteries of New Orleans complete with above-ground tombs and mausoleums.  Of course, the mausoleaums in New Orleans are much less well-kept and were built above ground due to the fact that NO is actually below sea level and thus it would difficult to bury people underground.  In Recoleta, entire huge families are often buried in one mausoleum and peeking into the broken glass of some tombs reveals very deep tunnels underground with coffin upon coffin stacked on top of each other.  Even creepier…many of the coffins sit exposed to the elements in tombs where the glass has been broken out…like these shown in the pictures below.

Despite the occasional “creepiness” factor, Recoleta Cemetery is a highly recommended stop on the tourist trail in Buenos Aires so make sure to check it out if you’re ever in town. Not much more today…we have a rare sunny day in BsAs today so I’m off to the park. My best to all…type to you soon!

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Argentina 4 – Los Jardines de Buenos Aires

March 5th, 2008

The Rose Garden

Bueno chicos….I’m back.  As always, I struggle a bit to come up with blog material when I’m stationary for a while as I’m basically just living and not doing a huge about of blogworthy stuff.  Having said that, one thing that porteños have done a great job with is their preservation of green space via their parks system.  Like any great large city, it’s not just concrete and sky scrapers but with careful prior planning the city forefathers were able to set aside lots of parks and gardens in the city.  Admittantly, it seems that in the last 30 years or so many of the parks had fallen into states of disrepair but now have been refurbished to their original splendor.

Images from the Botanical Garden

First off is the Jardin Botanico which is a beautiful park area near my house that contains lots of native to Argentina flora as well as flora from other parts of the world.  It is a nice place for a stroll and to take pictures as the trails are beautiful and well-maintained and some of the buildings are historical including the beautiful greenhouse that you can see below in the photos.  The garden, which has been declared a national monument, has a total area of 69,772 m2, and holds around 5,500 species of plants, trees and shrubs, as well as a number of sculptures, monuments and 5 winter-houses.   In recent years a large community of cats has established itself within the garden, encouraged by neighbours who leave food out for them. Attempts to remove the cats have so far proved unsuccessful but thanks to the dedication of volunteers in the local community who formed a voluntary committee, a humane resolution became possible, cats are allowed to live out their lives and no new cats are allowed in the garden while the current population receives care and free veterinary services from Instituto de Zoonosis Luis Pasteur.  The subject of cat herds is one that we will return to in the near future when we chat about Recoleta Cemetery.  Until then…it’s on to the Japanese Garden.

More images…

…still more

Camouflage cat

It seems that many major cities in the world have Japanese gardens and they are, almost invariably, the most beautiful and interesting parks in the system.  Near to the other parks in the Palermo neighborhood, El Jardin Japonés is as beautiful as would be expected and includes a pagoda with a Japanese cafe and lots of water, bridges and scenic viewpoints as is characteristic of Japanese gardens everywhere.  In fact, typical Japanese gardens have at their center a home from which the garden is viewed. In addition to residential architecture, Japanese gardens often contain several of these elements:

  • Water, real or symbolic.
  • Rocks.
  • A lantern, typically of stone.
  • A teahouse or pavilion.
  • A enclosure device such as a hedge, fence, or wall of traditional character.
  • A bridge to the island, or stepping stones.

Like those in other cities, El Jardin Japonés does not disappoint.

Images from the Japanese Garden

Of the three gardens I’ve recently strolled through El Rosedal (Rose Garden) is the smallest though equally as beautiful as its larger counterparts.  Despite the fact that the roses in the garden are currently suffering under the stifling Buenos Aires heat, the architecture and water in the surrounding area makes up for the lack of roses.  Since the pictures always do more justice than any words I can write…I’ll leave you simply with more photos today.  Hasta luego!

Images from the Rose Garden…

A Japanese Garden pond with koi

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