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Peru Review: Cusco – Peru Treks (tour operator)

Wednesday, January 9th, 2008

Name: Peru Treks

Location: Cusco, Peru

Address: Calle Garcilaso 265, Office 11, 2nd Floor, Cusco, Peru (2 minute walk from Plaza de Armas)Telephone: 00 51 84 505863 (from overseas), 084 505863 (from in Peru), 505863 (from in Cusco)

E-mail:  info@perutreks.com

Website: http://www.perutreks.com/

Review:  When looking for a company with which to do the guided Inca Trail it becomes overwhelming very quickly.  Certainly the Machu Picchu Inca Trail has become much more expensive over the past few years but do you really want to scrimp on price?  After doing a bit of research I decided that while cost was, of course, important what was most important to me is the treatment of the many porters that do all of the hard work on the trail…and to that end, the company doing the best work for porters’ rights is Peru Treks.

True, Peru Treks isn’t the cheapest company in Cusco (nor is it the most expensive) but it’s reasonably priced (under US$400 in 2007 though the price appears to have gone up for 2008 largely due to the weakening dollar).  I slept better knowing that the Peru Treks porters were being paid the union contract wage of 164 soles per 4 day trip (about $50).  Yeah, I know.  That is practically nothing by Western Standards but as the information on the website states, including tips a porter going on just 4 trips a month is making nearly the same as a college educated teacher in Peru…and is working fewer days.  The worst thing is that it is estimated that only 20% of the companies operating on the Inca Trail pay the required wage.  Why don’t the porters complain?  Well, this is Peru and things don’t run the way we’re all used to.   Most of these uneducated porters are happy to have any job at all so tolerate the unfortunate conditions under which they work.

OK, speech over.  Aside from the importance of porter welfare in their operations, the trek itself was very good and well organized.  We had a full group of 16 persons (plus 22 porters/chef and 2 guides).  The tents and sleeping bags were of high quality and the food was excellent.  Anectdotally we heard that the food in other companies was terrible but we felt like were eating gourmet…it was truly amazing what the chef could prepare with just a single gas burner.

Our main guide was good and spoke excellent English.  Our second guide was less good and spoke almost no English.  Which is fine…except they advertise both guides as English speakers and the second definitely wasn’t.  In fact, we couldn’t quite figure out what his function was as he didn’t do much at all near as we could tell.  Aside from the second guide, the trip was great.  I can’t recommend Peru Treks enough for their Inca Trail service.  Pay a little extra for the good of humanity and have a great trip.  Oh, and hire an extra porter to carry your stuff…it will make the trip so much easier and more enjoyable.  Also, bring small change and coins in soles for the tips at the end…makes everyone’s life slightly easier in a process that could use some improvement. 

Would I book with them again: Yes, definitely

Review Ecuador: Happy Gringo (travel agency) and NEMO II (Galapagos boat)

Wednesday, December 5th, 2007

Name: Happy Gringo Travel Agency

Location: Quito, Ecuador

Address:
Happy Gringo Travel
Lizardo Garcia E7-11 y Reina Victoria
La Mariscal, Quito
Ecuador

E-mail: eva@happygringo.com

Website: www.happygringo.com/EN/

Review: There is lots of advice going around the travel circuit about the best way to book your Galapagos tours. It’s generally accepted that the cheapest way to do so is to wait until you arrive in Ecuador and book a last minute special. This works better if you’re traveling alone and willing to share a cabin with a member of the opposite sex. Of course, waiting until the last minute limits the available boats and if you’re going to spend a large amount of money for a once-in-a-lifetime-experience do you really want to get stuck with what you get stuck with? I opted for the second best option…using a travel agency based in Ecuador (rather than an agency based in North America or Europe) and can very happily recommend the Happy Gringo agency in Quito.

From the very start, Eva at HG was extremely efficient and helpful. It was a bit unnerving to send large sums of money via wire transfer to a faceless person in a foreign country but Eva and HG made it very easy by providing all of the required information and even having a U.S. bank to wire the money to. This simplified the transaction considerably (and the transfer was cheaper to a domestic bank). Eva kept in constant contact regarding the status of my tickets, a change in flight itinerary and was generally very helpful. I can highly recommend this agency for your Galapagos booking (and I’m sure they do a great job with their other tours as well).

I booked the Nemo II catamaran in large part because it is one of the few boats with a complete 8 day itinerary rather than two 4 day itineraries pieced together. The boat was very comfortable with a spacious dining area, private bathrooms in the cabin and they arranged a female roommate for me as I was traveling alone. The food was fabulous and our guide, Juan Carlos, was very enthusiastic about the islands and conservation as well as speaking excellent English. The itinerary was also good and when we had a minor mechanical problem with the boat the crew was able to quickly adapt and make sure we got to see all of the promised species (in particular the giant tortoises).

The boat has 7 double cabins for a capacity of 14 but two people on our tour had single cabins so we only had 12 people. This was a great size group as you get to be comfortable and close over the week and it’s easy to get around with a small group. I definitely recommend a catamaran for people who may be prone to sea sickness as it is less “wobbly” than some of the other yacht-type boats in rough seas. There are ample places to sit and enjoy the scenery, both shaded and unshaded, and the crew of 7 (including guide) go out of their way to make sure you have a good time.

The only slight downside to this boat is that since its considered one of the nicer boats in the islands, it tends to draw an older crowd (I was the youngest on board at the old age of 30). This was fine for me as we had a great group of folks but for someone looking to travel with a more active and younger group I would probably book in the tourist or tourist-superior category. Otherwise, Nemo II is highly recommended.

Would I book with them again: Yes, definitely