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Egypt: Mt Sinai - Cairo

Thursday, October 4th, 2007

It was an easy trek down Mt Sinai and we barely had time for breakfast, a shower and a longing glance at our unslept in beds at the hotel before the 8-hour journey back to Cairo.

The hotel staff in Cairo welcomed me back like a long lost friend, and the group celebrated our last night together at the local restaurant with the ‘Best Juices in Egypt’ (a title not given lightly, let me tell you). We reminisced with photos, promised to catch up when our itineraries coincided, and parted ways the next morning, sadly bringing my two months in Africa to an end.

I truly loved Egypt - it is full of contrasts, exceeding all expectations and providing a glimpse into an ancient world of love and war while moving forward with full steam ahead in the 21st century. Though I wouldn’t dream of living there, it is perhaps one of my favourite places to date, though to compare it to anywhere else would be impossible, and a mistake.

Next stop, Canada.

-Sarah

Egypt: St Cathrine - Mt Sinai

Thursday, October 4th, 2007

St Cathrine was, apparently, a woman who declared herself a bride of Christ and refused to marry some king or another, so he burnt her at the stake unsuccessfully, following which he beheaded her to make sure she was well and truly dead (how can you, I ask, burn someone at the stake unsuccessfully? What where they using, candles?).

They made her a Saint (I can’t remember why) and many, many years later (I can’t remember how many) they named the firecracker ‘Cathrine wheel’ after her, as well as a Greek Orthodox monastery and the town surrounding it. I can’t remember the connection between becoming a Saint as well as a firecracker, but who wouldn’t be stoked at being both?

Ok, so that’s the history bit done with, as much as I was listening to anyway. After our bus ride to the town of St Cathrine, we wolfed down dinner, grabbed our day packs and all agreed to climb Mt Sinai at night, instead of at 1am when all the other tourists would be hiking up. That way, we reasoned, we could take our time and get some sleep on the top of the mountain before sunrise.

The trek was amazing by moonlight - we were the only ones on the camel path and although it was a struggle after doing slim to none exercise in about 6 months, I made it up the final 700 steps and collapsed in my sleeping bag on a smooth patch of rocks at the summit of Mt Sinai by about midnight.

Mt Sinai (Mt Horeb in the bible), at 2,285 meters, is the mountain that Moses spent 40 days and 40 nights on during the dynasty of Ramses II where he received the 10 commandments from God, inscribing them on stone tablets. It also has considerable religious significance to Islam as the place where Mohammed’s horse, Boraq, ascended to heaven.

Christian, Greek Orthodox, Judaism and Muslim pilgrims from around the world still trek up to the summit to pray and surround themselves in the holiness of the place. Which is just lovely of course, except just when we had closed our eyes for a few hours respite, they arrived, and the wailing began.

And man, it was loud. Like a symphony of tone-deaf exhibitionists, one man’s chanting clashed with a woman’s crying, both trying to unsuccessfully mask the sounds of others praying loudly in a variety of languages. Sleep was not an option - I think I have found more peace and holiness in my bathroom.

I decided to emerge from my sleeping bag when I was stepped on my an enthusiastic Asian tourist trying to steal our front row spot to view sunrise (’dude, I slept here’) and have to say for all the effort in getting to the summit, it was truly a magnificent sunrise.

No wonder Moses wanted to do it 40 times. I just hope he got some sleep.

-Sarah

Egypt: Dahab - St Cathrine

Thursday, October 4th, 2007
After a moonlit snorkel at the Blue Hole (I copped out, those lion fish sting man, I wanted to see exactly where they were) it was a late night with beers and pool, and so we all enjoyed a sleep ... [Continue reading this entry]

Egypt: Dahab (Day 2)

Thursday, October 4th, 2007
On our first full day in Dahab, everyone else went diving while my asthmatic little self slept in and chilled out in the sun by the pool, meeting everyone for lunch before taking a jeep north of Dahab to go ... [Continue reading this entry]

Egypt: Luxor - Hurghada - Dahab

Thursday, October 4th, 2007
From Luxor there was a four-hour convoy to Hurghada, mostly known for being home to one of the world's few official Ministry of Sound clubs. And we meant to go, really we did. But after our hectic week, long bus ... [Continue reading this entry]

Discovering true love in Egypt

Wednesday, October 3rd, 2007
On the first night in Cairo, whilst I and one other caught up on sleep, the rest of the group ate at a local Egyptian restaurant and arrived in reception the next morning with their hands clutching their chests, claiming ... [Continue reading this entry]

Egypt: Luxor (Day 2 - Valley of the Kings)

Wednesday, October 3rd, 2007
We had a 5am wake-up call and a brief river crossing by boat before meeting our sprightly donkeys for the hour ride to the Valley of the Kings the next morning. The donkeys were a hell of a lot more ... [Continue reading this entry]

Egypt: Luxor

Tuesday, October 2nd, 2007
After the quick bus ride to Luxor, we ate a very western meal of bugers and fries at a neaby cafe and a few hours later travelled by horse-drawn carriages to Karnak temple, where we met our local guide, Adlle ... [Continue reading this entry]

Egypt: Aswan to Luxor (Drifting down the Nile)

Tuesday, October 2nd, 2007
There are few things better that laying on a cushion-covered open-air deck of a wooden Felucca, with its tall white sail gently steering you silently down the Nile. Except maybe doing it for three days. It was a magical three days, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Egypt: Aswan (Day 2 - Abu Simbel)

Sunday, September 30th, 2007
It seemed I had only just shut my eyes when the 3.30am wake up call stirred me to stumble out of bed, grab my daypack and meet the rest of the group down in reception for the 4-hour bus journey ... [Continue reading this entry]