Off the Couch and On the Road

The following morning, everyone packed up the tents, with half the group leaving in the truck to cross the border into Zimbabwe and the rest of us staying behind to see Livingstone Island and the falls that afternoon.

We were told of the the political situation in Zimbabwe - the shop shelves were empty and people were crossing the border to get food - so we stocked up on essentials (read: alcohol and snacks) and then spent an hour walking arouind Livingstone looking for hot chips. As you do.

That afternoon we relaxed on the grounds of the Livingstone Hotel, a 5-star complex with beautiful green lawns speckled with daybeds and hammocks, enjoying the warm afternoon sun before boading a small boat to cross the Zambeze River over to Livingstone Island. There we were welcomed with a traditional African drink, stripped to our swimmers and jumped into the chilly waters at the very top of Victoria Falls. The current was strong, often running over moss-covered rocks, and it was a challenge itself to alternate between stumbling over rocks and swimming against the current to make it to the edge of the falls.

It was magnificent, a rainbow hidden in the mist to our left surrounded by the rush of white water up and over the 90 metre drop. We took turns laying over the edge, with one of the guides taking photos from a safe distance (my photo looks like I am laughing, but I was really screaming ‘hold on tighter!!’) before swimming back and being spoilt with a beautiful afternoon tea.

We made our way across the border as the sun was setting, to meet the rest of the group who had spent hours preparing a feast of BBQ meats and salads. We sat with a drink or two, ate and enjoyed our last meal together before each went their separate ways the following morning.

-Sarah

It was probably just as well I didn’t have time to think about the adventure activites I had signed myself up for, settling for mumbling to my tentmate, ‘mad, mad, what have you convinced me to do…,’ instead.

It turned out to be one of the best days, I abseiled down a 90 metre cliff both backwards and forwards (called rap jumping) which wasn’t so bad once you got the hang of it (hang of it? Geddit? Oh terrible humour, terrible…) - the catch being the 20 minute bush walk back up the gorge in the blistering sun. We only had the energy to do one of each, before trying out the flying fox afterwards, which initially scared me more than anything else as you had nothing to hold on to, simply strapping yourself into the harness, taking a running leap and jumping off the cliff. It was terrifying and exhilerating - flying over stunning views of the gorge, one of the tributaries of Victoria Falls itself.

After the flying fox, my tentmate and I braved the gorge swing as a tandem - famous for being showcased on the Amazing Race - and stood, our backs facing the gorge, strapped in so tight we couldn’t breathe much, holding onto each other side by side until my knuckles ached. Eventually the instructor looked at us and said, ‘are you ready?’ to which we kind of mumbled ‘ah, yeeeeeesss,’ and took tiny steps backwards until our heels were balanced precariously over the edge, counting to three and falling back. And down.

I didn’t realise until the jerk of the rope pulled us back up and reversed the intoxicating pull of inertia that I had my eyes shut the whole way down. It was one of the most awful feelings, as my tentmate described it, ‘like those dreams when you feel like you’re falling, except you can’t wake up’. But utterly awesome. And painful - we were strapped in so tight our thighs, waist and everything in between felt like it was being sliced open with razorblades, and it seemed like forever until the swinging motion across the gorge subsided and we were slowly lowered onto a platform where we were unstrapped and had to make our way back up the gorge. Again.

There was a cold lunch waiting, and we watched the video of all of us taking turns at the gorge swing with amusing screams, shreiks and yelps, before a few more jumps on the flying fox and a weary ride home.

It was hot, tiring, terrifying and painful. But an awesome day.

-Sarah

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