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The Whole, Wide World.

Sunday, December 31st, 2006

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It’s a snowy New Year’s eve afternoon back home. Distracted halfway into or out of an outfit, I am clad in a bizarre sundress/sweater combo, cupping a mug of sweet warm jasmine tea and have tunneled deep into the fever of my good friend’s travel blog.

Having picked up his ordinary engineer-working, Ultimate-Frisbee playing, rock-climbing existence and transferred it to enchantingly alien Chennai, India, he is by all accounts having the time of his life.

A man of my own priorities, he has taken to describing each day’s meals with the thoroughness of an Audubon field manual. Categorized by genus and species, each exotic dish is described in vivid, Technicolor detail and is flanked by annoyingly casual explanations of its place in his lovely new daily routine. In my cold kitchen, even the names roll around my mouth delightfully and generate salivation – the Masalas and Chutneys, the Dhals and Sambars, the Curries and Dosas.

I can almost smell the traffic choked streets clogged with jostling, un-EPA approved taxis and motorcycles. I can almost feel the heavy wind on my face in the back of a rickshaw, stuck next to a bull drawn cart in rush hour. Even worse, I find myself desperately wanting to mimic his charming Indi/Brit colloquialisms which somehow just sound awkward and Madonna-ish back stateside.

Suffice it to say, I am deep in the bell jar of travel-envy.

Frankly folks, I am greedy.

I want the world.

I want to feel the juxtaposition of strolling in silk saris next to the world’s most frenetic streets. I want to know if the green waters of Zanzibar are as balmy as I have been promised. I want to sleep in the open air of the Namibian desert and see if I missed a single star in Mali. I want to see for myself if peace is bestowed upon you like a lei in Bali. I want to see the worst we are capable of, soak in Bosnia, Rwanda and Sierra Leone as a warning or a spring of perspective. I want to wander like a local in Dubrovnik, Praia and Cartagena, Tehran, Vienna and Havana, collecting history, proverbs and second hand goods.

I want to lose myself in the Mekong Delta, on the Silk Road, through the Bhutanese Himalayas and gather a veritable hope chest of unfathomable experiences in return.

For every slightest mention of a friend (or stranger’s) next foreign destination, I am sent scurrying back to my laptop in a state of jealous euphoria to begin investigating the feasibility of my own visit.

I am aware that a timely resolution to be content with my past travels and patient with imminent journeys is in order. I also imagine that resolution is less likely to be fulfilled at next year’s end then is my vow to stop interrupting and eating candy in the bathtub.

Ces’t la vie. There are worse obsessions.

For today, I’ve plum worn myself out with the fervor of fantasizing and am ready to go celebrate the here and now with some of my favorite people. At least for this one day, I will be happy for my friend and his Indian endeavors, I will be satisfied to sop up his brilliant recounts and I will try to wait my turn for life’s next unreal adventure.

Snow Drifting…

Friday, December 15th, 2006

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It is one of those sternly cold mountain nights, where the air seems frozen to the stars which seem frozen to the steely blue, hovering clouds that promise morning snow.  

There is a window at my back, sighing chilled air at my neck as I sit at a massive, pale wood table and write.  If I turned around, if it were daylight, I would look out at a lovely snowy slope that drops onto pine and aspen tree forests and a distant rack of peaks lined up like grocery store bottles. 

I came here to find the snow. 

Stepping off the plane that delivered us home from South America last week, I was devastated to find that holiday ambiance was not, in fact, awaiting our return like a faithful subject.  On the contrary, Minnesota had brazenly spurned the laws of nature that demand a White Christmas.  And so, given the opportunity to voice my outrage by fleeing town for the compliantly snowy, unassuming charisma of Colorado’s Rocky Mountain enclaves, I all but leapt.   

My reward has been a week spent wandering through small towns from the mouth of the state’s mountain range to the Utah border.  Not the Vails or the Aspens, but the places with heart. The places where residents don’t seem to understand stocking hats are actually quite unattractive or that any bike beyond the 1952 cruiser was ever produced. The Almas and Tabernashes and Montroses, with town diners owned by gossips, newspapers that report bar scuffles and stolen parkas, cabins out of cell phone range and communal, 40 foot Christmas trees plopped smack in the center of Main Street, because this is apparently a perfectly reasonable roadblock.  

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Giddy over this extraordinary place – this festive fairyland that Gets It, that knows how to throw a proper holiday — I have implored my parents to turn up the same Christmas songs a dozen times in a row.  I have unceasingly hummed this soundtrack to the rolling white fields and marching blue mountains, the iced over reservoirs and the dirt roads that curve and twist intriguingly out of sight. 

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En route to family planted across the stretch of Rockies, accompanied by family, I’ve snowshoed in the hushed morning and Nordic skied in the brittle afternoon sunlight.   I have sighed at the unintentionally romantic fences whose wooden beams lean and bow under the weight of daily snow and years of service.  I have walked through my own breath in the chill of night through towns so still the crunch of frozen snow beneath my feet seems ostentatious.  I have been surrounded by the quiet spirituality and reverent silence that only a cape of unsullied snow delivers.  In the lazy past few days, I have tucked away more than my fair share of quaint winter scenes and small town holiday cheer.  More importantly, it is beginning to occur to me that the developing world does not have a monopoly on inspiring locales, admirable characters or humble priorities – an epiphany that will no doubt vastly entertain everyone over the age of 60 who ever lectured me on better exploring America the Beautiful.

Tomorrow, it will snow again.  These small town nights will still be aglow with glittering strings of light and mountain side bonfires.  And for all I’m worth, I will still adamantly believe that this charmingly colorless snow globe-incarnate defines Christmas.   

But back in that seasonally challenged middle-American December, my favorite travel companion is working hard by day, laid up with a viral infection by night, preparing without me for real life Christmas. 

The snow and magic and escape are here, but my heart is there despite it all. For once, I have no doubt it is time to go home.    

Fatal Roads & Worker Revolts: The Plot Thickens

Saturday, December 9th, 2006

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 We were four hours or so up the “World’s Most Dangerous Road” when we pulled up upon a manger scene of rescue workers, law enforcement and barefoot locals hovered at ... [Continue reading this entry]