Trekking in the Annapurnas

Pete Writes: After 6 weeks of chilling and sight seeing we decided to put our bodies through 11 days of walking up and down the mountains of Nepal. Although we were walking an average of 10 miles a day, all the pain seemed to be cured by the rolling country side views. In the beginning of the trek we had quite a baron backdrop, with the snow caped mountains looming over us. Then once we started to descend the climate became more tropical, with waterfalls and paddy fields. It was really interesting on the walk up to Ghorepani (2750m) from Tatopani (1190m) as the crops being grown changed from Oranges to Apples within 2 hours (probably 700m in height). Shame we craved for fresh apples when we were near the bottom

On the subject of apples, one thing I thought that I would struggle to find on this trip was cider. How wrong was I? Every menu in the higher lodges had it on offer (Shame it tasted more like vinegar) Roll on January, Gary :)There was a number of landslides along the route, with one memorable one consisting of a tight path with steep rock steps cutting into an almost vertical mound of shingle and slate. With the added pressure of a 20 meter drop into the fast flowing river below. SKETCHY!
I really enjoyed the whole experience of carrying all the kit you needed in between each village. Then once we got to the guest house we found a really welcoming family on hand to cook our filling carbohydrate dinner. Then there was the daily task of avoiding the convoy of donkeys bringing supplies to the villages to feed all of us hungry trekkers. The donkeys were not the only means of transporting goods. We saw numerous porters carrying everything from glass bottles to chickens on there back. Some were managing to carry in the excess of 80Kg, making us look like tortoises struggling with 7kg on our backs.

Once we had finished the 105 miles we had one more surprise install for us. The bus home. We reached the bus, only to be ushered up to the roof to join several others and 2 yaks! The ride was hair raising, rolling back and forth around bends at 30mph. We stopped for 15 mins, when I decided that it would be safer inside. We then realised why we were sent to the roof. It was like we had just entered into a record attempt of the most people in a 30 seater bus. I counted at least 60 with the extra 15 on top hanging onto the yaks.

Chloe Writes: We started our journey on a 15 seater light aircraft, which took 15 minutes to get to Jomsom the starting point of our trek at an altitude of 2,700 meters. The part of the circuit Pete and I walked is called the tea house trek as it sees and caters for more visitors per year than the other side and therefore you are never more than 3 hours away from a cup of hot sweet tea and a piece of apple pie. The other side of the circuit is only attempted by those who intend to go over the Throng La Pass which is the highest passable point of the Annapurna’s for a non-professional trekker, a total height of over 5,400 meters. Maybe next time!

The small villages were fantastic and all had there own little quirks. Kagbeni had a medieval feel about it whereas Marpha was quite modern. Tatopani had some hot springs and a dip is the perfect way to end a full day of walking (along with a glass of wine of course). Staying in a different lodge every night was good fun and the people were very friendly, it felt as though you were staying in someone’s house and were part of the family. It wasn’t all idyllic though as I did get a bout of fairly nasty food poisoning from some chicken and the next 2 days of walking were not easy, (I decided to be a veggie for the rest of the trip). Also the last place we stayed (an un-planned stop as we were too physically exhausted after a 16.5 mile walk to carry on) we were kept awake by the sound of a squeaking family of mice scurrying around (it was our flat in Old-Market all over again).

Getting used the temperature drop at the high altitudes after being in a 30 degree heat in Pokhora meant the purchasing of woolly hats, gloves and big woolen socks and at our highest point in Muktinath (3,800 meters) i slept in all my clothes, my woolly hat, 2 pairs of socks, gloves, a fleece sleeping bag liner and 2 blankets and i was still cold, i guess 5 weeks in India didn’t prepare us well.
It was physically one of the hardest things i have ever done, especially the 14 mile climb up 1600 meters from Tatopani to Ghorepani but the views were truly spectacular. Poon Hill another 400 meters up from Ghorepani (which we climbed before the sunrise), has panoramic views of the Himalayas with the 7th & 8th highest peaks in the world on either side of the Annapurnas.
Over-all we are truly cream crackered, but have had an amazing time in Nepal and are currently chilling out and enjoying the good-life before our mammoth 2-day journey overland to Bombay
Page Gallery

Our Airplane

A view from Jomsom

View on Route to Kagbeni

About 20 minutes before the Sun Rose on Poon Hill

Sunrise on Poon Hill

Sunrise on Poon Hill2

More of the Sunrise, it was beautiful

Pete and I decided against the Yak Burger and Fries …..

…..Especially when we saw this little fella!

We were so proud of making it up our first steep ascent

While we were trekking, the biggest festival in Nepal lasting 10 days was in progress. Day 8 was the giving of the tika (on our foreheads)
Tags: Nepal

October 26th, 2007 at 11:38 pm
Hi both
Wow! Fantastic pictures as usual.
The ‘Big M’ gets everywhere - I see you weren’t the only ones taking a photo!
Good to hear you survived your trek. Looking forward to looking after the parcel when it arrives - will it be wearing woolly clothes as you won’t be needing them for a while!
Only 12 weeks until our holiday!
Take care
Mum & Dad xx
October 28th, 2007 at 6:42 am
THANKS FOR THE NEWS OF YOUR EXCITING ADVENTURES, it must be very thrilling for you. lIm enjoying a weekend down with Paulette ,your mum and dad are here too.
LOTS OF LOVE FROM
Nan.
October 30th, 2007 at 5:38 am
Hi Pete and Chloe. Wow, I have been busy enjoying your pics of your trek, Chitwan and Kathmandu - funnily enough many are the same as mine!!! Think you may even have had the same elephant to have a bath on in Chitwan. The good thing is that it brings back all my fab memories each time I see your pics. The trek looks fab too - something I was unable to due partly due to time but mostly as it was still monsson when I was there! Really glad you are enjoying yourselves - I knew you would love every minute.Bristol is much the same appart from the big lack of trance nights. However, I got a cheeky blast thanks to Nick doing a 3hr classic trance set at West Fest! Great stuff.nrnrIn order to keep my travelling memories alive I have managed to find a supply of Chai tea right here at Tesco’s. Yes if you have developed a liking for the stuff you can get hold of it in Bristol although its not quite as good as the real deal out there.nrnrSpeeak soon.Hugs V
October 30th, 2007 at 10:19 am
Hi U2,
What fab pics and you both look very healthy after you trek.
Back to the busy city of Mumbia and hope you rest up for the next adventure.
Can’t wait for January and miss you both.
XXXXXXand hugs M
November 1st, 2007 at 1:16 am
Conclusive proof that Macdonalds have conquered everywhere! That trek looks spot on, bet the sunsets were amazing that high up.
Did you guys get my e-mail in reply to your request to bring dollars and other bits and bobs out?
Only 7 weeks to go!!!!!!!!!!!! WOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!
November 1st, 2007 at 3:22 am
Hola,
Glad you guys had a good Trek. Nice photos! We are in Bikiner at the mo, have just done a 3-day camel safari and about to head back to Delhi on the night train before going back to UK.
We will keep looking at your blog.
Nick & Louise xx
November 2nd, 2007 at 2:48 am
Did I see you in Khatmandu 6th October or or 27th to 29th October?
Did you try the apple brandy at Marpha?
One of those 8000 metre peaks was Dhauligiri, which we did a circuit of in unseasonally snowy conditions (-21 degrees in the tent at Hidden Valley).
November 2nd, 2007 at 8:28 pm
Hi Mum & Dad C,
The trek was fantastic and we did survive, just about. We will make up for all that hard work by chillin’ out in Goa.
Cali the elephant is wrapped in woolly hats and socks. He is exhausted though as he made the trip from Chitwan - Pokarah - Bombay, and is now on his way to Taunton. Whether he makes it or not is another story.
Lots of Love x
November 2nd, 2007 at 8:39 pm
Hi Mum E,
Yes the hustle & Bustle of Mumbai couldn’t have been further from the peaceful Himalayas of Nepal.
Looking forward to January too.
Lots of Love xx
November 2nd, 2007 at 8:43 pm
Hi Jim,
No sunsets on the trek unfortunately as we were surrounded by mountains although the poonhill sunrise was definitely worth the effort.
We did get your email, Pete replied I think, let us know if you got it.
I cant believe it’s only 7 weeks away, I cant wait… Can you ask Alex if she got my email?
Lots of Love,
Chloe xx
November 2nd, 2007 at 8:47 pm
Hi Nanny Cann,
Glad to see are reading the blog, it’s really good to hear from you.
Hope you are well, we look forward to hearing from you again.
Lots of Love to you all,
Pete & Chloe x
November 2nd, 2007 at 8:51 pm
Hi Vanessa,
We highly recommend a trek in Nepal if you get the chance, it was definitly a highlight for us.
Chai is very addictive and it has to be with lots of milk and sugar.
Really good to hear from you,
lots of love xx
November 2nd, 2007 at 8:54 pm
Hi Nick & Louise,
How was Bikiner? And how was your camel safari, no ticks in sight i hope ;o)
Were in Bombay at the moment, not as chilled our as Chitwan. How did your trek go? How was base camp?
Hope to hear from you soon,
Lots of Love xx
November 2nd, 2007 at 9:00 pm
Hi Denise,
We were in Kathmandu from the 4th October till the 8th i think so same time as you.
Yes we did try the apple brandy in Marpha, we brought some from the sweet old lady who owns the distillery. It definitely warmed the cockles after a long day trekking :O)
Wow, -21 must have been freezing, but worth it i would imagine. Did you do the whole circuit?
Thanks for the comment,
Chloe & Pete x
November 10th, 2007 at 9:52 am
Amazing photos guys, really incredible - I look forward to seeing them on your walls!
Just catching up on your travels…
November 12th, 2007 at 5:11 am
Hi Rupert,
We shall probably have thousands by the end of our trip… How to choose between them all
Lots of Love x
November 13th, 2007 at 4:43 pm
We had over 8,000… it’s painstaking to go through them, for so many reasons!