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Trekking in the Annapurnas

Friday, October 26th, 2007

The Annapurnas

Pete Writes: After 6 weeks of chilling and sight seeing we decided to put our bodies through 11 days of walking up and down the mountains of Nepal. Although we were walking an average of 10 miles a day, all the pain seemed to be cured by the rolling country side views. In the beginning of the trek we had quite a baron backdrop, with the snow caped mountains looming over us. Then once we started to descend the climate became more tropical, with waterfalls and paddy fields. It was really interesting on the walk up to Ghorepani (2750m) from Tatopani (1190m) as the crops being grown changed from Oranges to Apples within 2 hours (probably 700m in height). Shame we craved for fresh apples when we were near the bottom :(

Pans in one of the Guest Houses

On the subject of apples, one thing I thought that I would struggle to find on this trip was cider. How wrong was I? Every menu in the higher lodges had it on offer (Shame it tasted more like vinegar) Roll on January, Gary :)There was a number of landslides along the route, with one memorable one consisting of a tight path with steep rock steps cutting into an almost vertical mound of shingle and slate. With the added pressure of a 20 meter drop into the fast flowing river below. SKETCHY!

I really enjoyed the whole experience of carrying all the kit you needed in between each village. Then once we got to the guest house we found a really welcoming family on hand to cook our filling carbohydrate dinner. Then there was the daily task of avoiding the convoy of donkeys bringing supplies to the villages to feed all of us hungry trekkers. The donkeys were not the only means of transporting goods. We saw numerous porters carrying everything from glass bottles to chickens on there back. Some were managing to carry in the excess of 80Kg, making us look like tortoises struggling with 7kg on our backs.


Fields

Once we had finished the 105 miles we had one more surprise install for us. The bus home. We reached the bus, only to be ushered up to the roof to join several others and 2 yaks! The ride was hair raising, rolling back and forth around bends at 30mph. We stopped for 15 mins, when I decided that it would be safer inside. We then realised why we were sent to the roof. It was like we had just entered into a record attempt of the most people in a 30 seater bus. I counted at least 60 with the extra 15 on top hanging onto the yaks.


Pete in the hot springs

Chloe Writes: We started our journey on a 15 seater light aircraft, which took 15 minutes to get to Jomsom the starting point of our trek at an altitude of 2,700 meters. The part of the circuit Pete and I walked is called the tea house trek as it sees and caters for more visitors per year than the other side and therefore you are never more than 3 hours away from a cup of hot sweet tea and a piece of apple pie. The other side of the circuit is only attempted by those who intend to go over the Throng La Pass which is the highest passable point of the Annapurna’s for a non-professional trekker, a total height of over 5,400 meters. Maybe next time!

house and bridge

The small villages were fantastic and all had there own little quirks. Kagbeni had a medieval feel about it whereas Marpha was quite modern. Tatopani had some hot springs and a dip is the perfect way to end a full day of walking (along with a glass of wine of course). Staying in a different lodge every night was good fun and the people were very friendly, it felt as though you were staying in someone’s house and were part of the family. It wasn’t all idyllic though as I did get a bout of fairly nasty food poisoning from some chicken and the next 2 days of walking were not easy, (I decided to be a veggie for the rest of the trip). Also the last place we stayed (an un-planned stop as we were too physically exhausted after a 16.5 mile walk to carry on) we were kept awake by the sound of a squeaking family of mice scurrying around (it was our flat in Old-Market all over again).

D  Convoy

Getting used the temperature drop at the high altitudes after being in a 30 degree heat in Pokhora meant the purchasing of woolly hats, gloves and big woolen socks and at our highest point in Muktinath (3,800 meters) i slept in all my clothes, my woolly hat, 2 pairs of socks, gloves, a fleece sleeping bag liner and 2 blankets and i was still cold, i guess 5 weeks in India didn’t prepare us well.

It was physically one of the hardest things i have ever done, especially the 14 mile climb up 1600 meters from Tatopani to Ghorepani but the views were truly spectacular. Poon Hill another 400 meters up from Ghorepani (which we climbed before the sunrise), has panoramic views of the Himalayas with the 7th & 8th highest peaks in the world on either side of the Annapurnas.

Over-all we are truly cream crackered, but have had an amazing time in Nepal and are currently chilling out and enjoying the good-life before our mammoth 2-day journey overland to Bombay ;)

Page Gallery

Airplane
Our Airplane

Jomson 1
A view from Jomsom

wall
View on Route to Kagbeni

poon 4
About 20 minutes before the Sun Rose on Poon Hill

poon 3
Sunrise on Poon Hill

poon 2
Sunrise on Poon Hill2

poon 1
More of the Sunrise, it was beautiful

Yak Donalds
Pete and I decided against the Yak Burger and Fries …..

baby yak
…..Especially when we saw this little fella!

Muktinath
We were so proud of making it up our first steep ascent

tikka
While we were trekking, the biggest festival in Nepal lasting 10 days was in progress. Day 8 was the giving of the tika (on our foreheads)

Chitwan National Park

Friday, October 12th, 2007

Baby Elephant

Chloe Writes: As you will see from the photos, we have replaced our comedy cows with elephants. We are in the jungle after all!

Our jungle experience started with a jeep ride where the heavens opened and the rain fell in buckets, needless to say we got soaked. Upon settling in at our guest house we were then issued with a warning from the owners that there was a wild elephant on the loose so be careful when walking around after dark. Our first day we had an afternoon canoe trip followed by a 2 hour jungle walk. Contrary to the lonely planet’s warning we didn’t see any tigers, which i have to say i was quite pleased about. We finished the day with the sunset (yes they’re back again) and happy hour cockails by the river…lush.

Chloe on her bike

It was an early start the next morning with an elephant ride where we spotted some rino, deer and monkey’s. Then after breakfast we shared bathing time with the elephants in the river. This consisted of us getting squirted with water by the elephants and trying to stay on their backs while their handler gave them instructions to throw us off. Pete was far better at staying on than me but was fun none the less and we just kept getting back on for more. The afternoon was followed by a cycle ride through the villages to the elephant breeding center, Pete had a squeaky bike and I had a suicidal Chicken run in front of my bike. At the center we fed biscuits to the baby elephants who were so entertaining and unbelievable cute we could have watched them for hours.
Yes we brought a wooden elephant but what better place to get one than here. And no it wasn’t the biggest but it was definitely second in command. It was named ‘Kali’ by the guy who sold it to us and we’ve decided it must be at least 4-5kg but we will soon find out when we try to post it back to England ;)

Mum and baby

Pete Writes: After getting really excited about this part of our journey, it did not let me down. It is by far the best place that I have been so far.
The resort is literally a small village on the river opposite the Royal Chitwan Park. The village is really rustic with every hut having there own goat, buffalo, chickens and ducks. They all seem really happy and content with what they have, it shows that money is not everything :)
We stayed just off the main street, which was opposite the army camp. We even had our own solider in a turret overlooking our gateway (a nice bit of extra security).
The elephant bath time was really refreshing, although trying to play bucking bronco with a 2 ton Nellie was always going to be a losing battle :)

Sunset

Whilst in the jungle on our elephant we began to trek the one horned rhino, slowly and quietly we fought our way through the dense jungle, then suddenly in an opening there were 2 grazing. We approached from behind, careful not to scare them. Then from our left there was another noise! Was it another rhino? Deer? Sloth bear? NO! It was a group of Chinese tourists on an elephant shouting “Hellooooww” at the top of there voice. (not quite the jungle experience we had in mind)
One thing that we both remembered from the elephant trek was when the keeper extracted a leech from its trunk. It emphasized the bond between them.
Each evening we headed down to the waterside to catch the sunset and sink a few cocktails. The view, combined with the sounds of the jungle definitely make Chitwan a magical place, and I feel very lucky to have experienced it.

Shame about the mozzies! But it would not be a jungle without the resident blood sucker… Although in our room they seemed to have a slight problem flying in a straight line.. I wonder why ;)
We are now off to the mountains trekking, so we will not be in touch for 2 weeks.
Till then x

Page Gallery

Elephant squirting water
Elephant Bathing Time Picture 1: The Elephant Squirted water on us

Chloe falling off
Elephant Bathing Time Picture 2: Chloe falling off the Elephant

Chloe in water
Elephant Bathing Time Picture 3: Chloe in water – Pete feeling pleased with himself that he is still on the elephant

Chloe & Pete Both in water
Elephant Bathing Time Picture 4: Elephant 1 – Chloe & Pete 0

Boat at sunset
A Canoe on the River at Sunset

Our Jungle Guides
Our Jungle Guides

Just setting off on our Jungle Trek
Just setting off on our Elephant Sarfari, before we were joined by another couple, it was cosy but we got on well and ended up spending the day with them

Baby goat
A one day old baby goat

Chloe feeding the baby elephant
Chloe feeding the baby elephant

Rhinos in water
Bathing Rinos

Rhino
Rino

Kathmandu

Sunday, October 7th, 2007
Our first night in Nepal at an excellent Thai restaurant Pete Writes: The initial feeling of arriving in a new country was really exciting. We managed to get our visa ok, ... [Continue reading this entry]