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La Paz and Lake Titicaca

Tuesday, September 23rd, 2008

Chloe takes in the view, La Paz

Chloe Writes: La Paz is the highest capital city in the world at 3,660 meters, nestled between two mountains, (it kind of sinks between them into a valley) and surrounded by the Andes the scenery is beautiful. The streets are steep and narrow with cobble paved with very colorful shops and eateries. It is very diverse city and the contrast between tradition and modernity, rich and poor is apparent. From the witches market (where we stayed) you can buy an array of superstitious paraphernalia such as a llama fetus which is said to bring luck to the house if buried out side. There is also the “Mercado Negro” or the Black Market where you can buy just about anything, not off the back of a lorry though as its name suggests. There are lots of expensive, bars and restaurants where you could easily spend the price of 4 meals on one drink, so we only had one proper night out as we are on a very tight budget now and met up with some friends we made in Argentina.

Protests in La Paz, the reason for the blockades

After La Paz we went to Rurrenabaque so the timing is a bit out for this entry. Upon returning to La Paz by plane we went straight to Copacabana (not the one from the song), a colorful city on the banks of the gigantic lake Titicaca. And after being almost at sea level in was a shock to be back at an altitude of 3,800. We did manage a 200 meter climb to an ancient Inca site to watch a beautiful sun-set but it took us a while to get up there. We did a small day trip to Isla Del Sol, The island of the Sun, to see some more Inca ruins and look at the sacred rock that gives lake Titicaca its name. Titi meaning “wild cat” caca meaning a type of “rock”. I couldn’t see it myself but we touched the sacred rock which is said to give you energy. After a 2 hour walk around the Island, and at over 4k meters I ended up with one of the worse headaches I can ever remember having and had to lie down for the rest of the day. Copacabana is also the place to party, in just a few days of being there we saw a couple of wedding parties (presents can be purchased just outside the wedding venue, not sure what the newlyweds do with hundreds of identical plate sets) and pleanty of dancing on the streets, even at 10am on a monday morning.

Church in Copacabana

Pete Writes: We spent most of the time in La Paz wondering the streets (which in some places are virtually vertical) catching our breath and sampling the local foods. We missioned it up to a view point which gave us a real insight into just how steep and vast the Capital is. The city is built in a massive valley with the poorer people living at the top of the hill with the business district sitting at the base of the valley. Its a shame that the photos do not really do it justice.

Copacabana was really hard work at first as we gained over 3000m in altitude, so we spent the few days walking (very slowly) around the town trying to find the best Cena (set dinner of soup, meat and rice) in town. Imagine my surprise when being told that the soup was vegetable, finding a whole chickens foot resting at the bottom of the bowl (fowl, pardon the pun) I found it hard to finish my first course and promptly moved onto the main!

Sacraficial table on Isla del Sol

We were heading back to our guest house one afternoon when we noticed several cars outside of the Cathedral with flowers on their bonnets. We questioned the reason for this and found out that twice a day one of the monks comes to the outside and blesses the cars and drivers with Holy water, and then (the bit I liked) they crack open the Cider :o)

So its now time to leave Bolivia behind and head towards Peru for some more high altitude training! We have had lots of fun and met some really cool Gringos, and even eaten some reasonable Cenas :o)

Page Gallery

View of La Paz
La Paz

Street view La Paz
A Street in La Paz

Woman selling socks
Socks anybody….Socks!!

Bus in La Paz
Colourful Bus

Chloe by paintings
Chloe shopping again!! Cant afford to buy anything though!

coach on boat
Our coach crossing the river to get to Copacabana

Pete says cheers
The sunset point over lake Titicaca in Copacabana

3 ladies on their way to church
Ladies on their way to church

Candles
The hall of a thousand candles in the church

Cars ready to be blessed
Cars in all their finery awaiting the blessing

Monk blessing
The people are blessed as well

view from isla del sol
View of the lake from Isla del sol, you can see the Andes in the background

reed boat
Reed Boat, the children try to sell you miniture versions

woman and donky
Woman and a donkey on the beach

us on Isla del sol
At the Inca ruins on the island

chicken foot
Dinner….yummy!

The Amazon Basin

Saturday, September 20th, 2008

Hammocks

Pete Writes: After traveling around at high altitudes for a few weeks we decided that it was time to get down to a more breathable level and try and find some warmth. We ended up in the little town of Rurrenabaque which lies in the Amazon Basin and has a couple of tours that let you experience jungle life.

We arrived with the mind set that we would lie around in hammocks for a few days before booking ourselves onto a tour. During our horizontal chilling the whole of Bolivia decided that it would be a good idea to have a political situation, meaning road blocks across the whole country and the whole of Bolivia came to a stop (which included our tour to the Pampas ). So we thought we would book ourselves onto the Jungle tour instead…. Although due to the blockades there were not enough people to make up the numbers ARRGGHHH!!! So we chilled some more :o)

Annaconda

The blockades were finally lifted 2 days later and we managed to book ourselves onto a 3 day tour through the pampas. The wildlife we saw was unbelievable. There were more Alligators than I could physically count, loads of birds, snakes and capibaras (the biggest of the rodent family). We even went Pirana fishing which Chloe well and truly showed us all up with her fishing skills (we would have had no dinner if it was not for her!!) At one point in the river there are pink dolphins, and our guide told us that it would be safe to swim with them as the alligators do not come in the water when they are around… I had a little think and thought why not!! And I am still here!!

Chloe and Fidel, I dont think we were destinded to become Amigos

Chloe Writes: Chilling in the jungle was just what the doctor ordered after the altitude of the salt flats and trip to Potosi, the highest city in the world of its size at 4,200 meters where we didn’t do much unfortunately as we were both unwell, then La Paz (blog to come) the highest capital city in the world (but what an amazing city). Anyway we were both suffering a bit from the altitude and lack of warmth so where better to go than Rurrenabaque in the Amazon Basin, where when we landed it was 32 degrees. Shoes off, flip-flops on, Heaven!! Our guest house was muy barato (very cheap), by the river with lots of hammocks, and the home of 3 dogs, 2 parrots, 2 chickens, one spider monkey and a squirrel monkey (who also rides on the back of the spider monkey and is best friends with the dog).

Our trip around the Pampas (meaning plains) started off after a bumpy and dusty 3 hour jeep journey, on a 3 hour boat trip along the river with our guide Negro, where we saw hundreds of alligators and black caimans (same family but they eat the alligators), the capibaras were cute but as much as I love rodents, far too big for a pet, some were bigger than me :). We saw Paradise birds with beautiful feathers, the Jabaru a giant of birds (which nests cover a space of about 2 meters square) and even a few of the rare Toucans. There were many squirrel monkeys which we fed a banana or two (maybe ecologically questionable), howler & spider monkeys, plus some big red ones but I cant remember the names. We also saw beautiful pink dolphins and lots of turtles.

Sunset in the Pampas

The second day we went hunting in the pampas for Anacondas and Cobras. We saw many anacondas and although huge in size and could take your head off they were very docile and non-poisonous. It wasn’t pleasant to see them poked out of the tree with a stick and the treatment of them by some of the other tour groups who wanted their photos taken with them wasn’t that great to watch either. The cobras were rarer and when one was found (these are poisonous but not deadly), it was very agitated and made increasingly angrier by being man-handled that it kept trying to strike. One tourist blatantly thought he was Steve Irwin and was egged on by the others in his group and by some of the guides. Knowing that our group was not happy with this our guide took us away and left them to it.

I was not looking forward to fishing due to the hooks and thinking its a bit cruel and the fact that i am squeamish. But i do eat fish and I didn’t think I would catch anything so i thought i would give it a try. Fishing with Llama meat was also something a bit different and in the end realised i had a bit of a knack for it. I caught lots of piranhas with big teeth and also lots of sardines which i had to throw back, really cruel to un-hook them though and i did feel very guilty. I also couldn’t do it myself. Maybe fishing isn’t for me after all.

Our Plane

The third day was swimming in the river with pink dolphins PLUS the piranhas, alligators, black caimans etc… We had also heard from most of the tourists who swam that they ended up with ticks. Having ended up in the hospital from a tick bite in India un-beknown to us at the time (see India blog: jaisalmer), and being a complete wimp I decided not to go in the water. We also had a strange encounter with Fidel Castro the alligator. We pulled up on the back with our guide calling “Fidel” “Fidel” and along swam this giant alligator. Apparently tame Negro encouraged us to go over and stroke him. As Negro has a missing finger, I was very reluctant (looking down at an Alligators jaw is also very very scary) and was waiting to have my hand snapped off. I’m still in one piece though. Overall the trip was amazing and being stuck in the jungle wasn’t so bad. We did celebrate being on the first flight to actually leave Rurrenabaque for over a week, but got of the plane in La Paz totally un-acclimatised, cold and wishing we were back in the jungle.

Page Gallery

Airport
Rurrenabaque Airport

Sunset from Rurre
Sunset from our guest house

Dog and monkey
Best mates and Chloes hand…sorry

Child in bin
Child in bin…no idea!!

kitten and parrots
Kitten and Parrots

Jabaroo
Jabaru

boats waiting on river
The boats for the Pampas tours

Pete and monkeys
Pete and Monkeys

Capibarros
Capibaras

Turtles
Turtles

toucan2
Toucan

Pete and flag
Pete risking his life to get the British flag

Sun on river
On the way back to camp on the boat after the sunset, we saw all the alligators eyes glow red in the touchlight

Looking for snakes
Negro looking for Snakes

Snake tounge
Annaconda, please note we have a very crap zoom on our camera…well done Pete!

Aligator
Alligator

Pete and aligator
Pete swimming with the Alligators

Close up
Fidel Castro

Chloes catch
Dinner…. I didnt catch them all..

Monkeys
Spider and Squirrel monkeys, the later being more of an annoying accuaintance

Pete and  girl at lunch
We managed to feed the both of us, 2 dogs and a street kid all for 2 pounds

Salar De Uyuni

Friday, September 12th, 2008
Cactus Chloe Writes: We started our Bolivian adventure being woken up on our cama (meaning bed - essentially first class) bus a few hundred yards from the border, freezing cold (as mentioned ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Iguazu Falls

Monday, September 8th, 2008
Us in Brasil Pete Writes: Our next stop was to Iguazu Falls, we decided that we would not only visit the Argentina side, but we would take a day trip into Brazil ... [Continue reading this entry]