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Buenos Aires

Monday, August 25th, 2008

Tango couple

Chloe Writes: My first impression of Buenos Aires was not a great one. For a city named “Good Air” I didn´t feel it lived up to it´s namesake, with massively polluted and dusty roads and dog do covering the pavements, and after the first day or so, I thought that i was going to be Bored. But how wrong i was, How can you be bored in Buenos Aires!!. What a colorful and unique city it is, from the old style and truly eye-catching buildings, to the tango and dancing on the streets, the wonderful hippy, craft and antiques Fayre’s, amazing restaurants, dog walkers with 6 or so dogs on one lead and the delightful myriad of people entertaining the crowds on every street corner. I could have stayed for at least another week.


Colourful building

Tango shows are everywhere and in a neighborhood called Bocca, you can sit and enjoy a decadent lunch on the street while being entertained with music, shows, and generally soak up the atmosphere and enjoy the old style buildings and markets. In the more upmarket part of town (definitely less dog do on the floor here), we visited one of the most impressive grave yards in the world, full of hundreds of amazingly grand shrines where the wealthy and famous (including the nationally treasured Eva Paron) are buried. On a Saturday the park here turns into a very colorful and interesting hippy/craft market with an array of the most unique creations, it was difficult not to spend the rest of our travel money here, I think we were very restrained.

Dinner is eaten very late here in BA, and at around 10.30pm you can go out and enjoy dinner and a show (tango of course), but there is also flamenco, Reggae and others I’m sure. Sunday we enjoyed a rather lively and packed futbol match and since we had the cheap tickets and were in the “Mosh pit” as we called it, we also decided to wear the colors of the local Bocca team, another one to send home and for me probably never wear, well its a memory isn’t it! i was definitely feeling the “good air” by the end of the trip and would recommend the city to anyone.


pete about town

Pete Writes: As Chloe mentioned we have had a great time here and it just goes to prove that first impressions don’t always count! We have been controlled enough not to experience too much of the night life as apparently Buenos Aires never sleeps, but I know that I certainly have had my fare share, although I think the bed I had was one of the worst yet!! We have spent the last few days wondering the streets and playing dodge the dump! Which believe me is quite a challenge when you are admiring the architecture up high!

So we had a tick list, and top of my list was eat a steak and I have managed to every night so far :o) at 5 pounds it is a total bargain and tastes sooooo good. Couple it up with a few glasses of vino and some good company and you are on to a winner. Spending the morning wandering around the cemetery was a little eerie, although some of the tombs were amazing and probably worth more than our house! We spent a couple of mornings wandering around markets keeping our hands well and truly in our pockets and not buying anything, although Chloe did a good job of touching everything!


Steak dinner

Finally I persuaded Chloe into coming to yet another live sports match! I think she is becoming addicted! It was to see the legendary Bocca Juniors (of whom Maradona used to play for) We ended up in the standing area with all of the passionate fans and even got involved in a couple of the chants! It also ended up being a good result for the home team so everyone was happy although our feet were throbbing from standing up for over 2 hours, next time we will get seats! So we say Adios to Buenos Aires and head towards another 17 hour bus journey (via the post office Mum and Dad, well you couldn’t´t expect us to buy nothing could you).

Page Gallery

colorful shop
Colorful shop, but typical in BA

cat art
Cat grafetti

Argentina stall
Argentinian stall

dog walker
Dog walker

scruffy building
Another typical building

tin houses
There are many charactures of people all over the city

tango for lunch
Tango and lunch

guitarist
Guitarist

street in boca
Street in bocca

caminito building boca
Infamous Caminito building in bocca, it stars in many pictures

lamp post
Classic lamp post

gated shrine
A shrine in the cemetery

grave on ground
The Cemetery was vast, you could wonder round for hours

shrine woman
Shrine of a woman

glass earings
A colourful stall in the hippie market

tango for dinner
Tango and dinner

show me the money
A very enthusiastic old lady drumming and singing

fake woman and wine
Woman and wine

tango for all
Tango for all at anytime of the day

Empanada
Who said Empanadas dont have feelings

futbol shop
Futbol shop

futbol field
Futbol field, people throw paper areoplanes at the opposition

boca fans
Bocca fans at the game

Reggae for a change
Reggae for a change

Patagonia

Thursday, August 21st, 2008

Us on the glacier

Pete Writes: After a grueling few bus journeys (50 hours in total!) we ended up in El Calafate, which is famous for the Perito Moreno Glacier. We decided that we would book a tour which would include a 2 hour hike over the Glacier wearing crampons. We had heard lots of reports about the glacier, however nothing could prepare us for the sheer size of it! It measures 5 km in width, 80 meters high (above the water) and 30 km in length. It is bigger than the capital Buenos Aires! We were both in ore instantly! The hike over the Glacier was lots off fun, although it did get a bit cold but we were given a nice shot of whiskey Over Ice (pardon the pun!) which soon warmed the cockles :o)

Whale

Next mission was to get back on a bus for another 17 hours (glutton’s for punishment) and head North to Puerto Madryn to do a bit of Whale spotting. As we walked along the beach front you could see at least 6 mothers and their calves in the sea. Again we booked onto another tour to go out on a boat to get up closer look at these massive mammals. I was not disappointed as we spent a good 30 Min’s floating next to a courting couple, the female had to be at least 15 meters in length. Amazing!! We then proceeded to the Edge of the Peninsula to see few elephant seals just lazing around on the Beach waiting to conceive and to give Birth. There were only a few on the Beach, but according to our guide in a month there would be 1000´s of seals on this stretch of Beach!

Our feet on the glacier

Chloe Writes: The last week has been amazing. Like Pete said the Glacier was breath-taking and one of the most spectacular landscapes I have seen on this trip so far. The sheer size and magnitude was immense and unfortunately the photos do not do it justice. The glacier is one of the few in the world that still advances and every few years it reaches the side of a mountain, which when the water level in the lake rises, this part of the glacier starts to melt, creating an arch which eventually crashes into the sea. Unfortunately we missed this spectacle by a matter of weeks.

Jagged Peaks on the Glacier

The whale watching also made the long bus journeys worth while, they put on an amazing show for us from the boat. The Sound of the female expelling water from the blow hole at the top of her head made me feel like i was watching first hand an extract from David Attenborough´s Planet Earth.

Its back on the bus for another 17 hours (we shouldnt complain as the buses are some of the best in the world), heading North to Buenos Aires. The South was freezing but it´s getting warmer with every bus we take.

Page Gallery

view from the boat distance
The first of many glacier pics, sorry but we took so many it was hard to choose.

fallen arch
This is the remains of the fallen arch

glacier and tree
A view on our walk to the glacier

pete on the glacier
Pete on the Glacier

wisky on glacier
Wisky to warm the cockles

chloe on the glacier
Chloe in front of an ice cavern

glacier and people
Our tour group

hole
A hole caused by receeding water…. not one you want to fall in

view from the glacier
View from the Glacier

jagged peaks
Jagged peaks caused by the advancing (2 meters per day) of the glacier. You can also hear the lound rumblings it makes

view from the ground
View from the ground

glacier from view point
The pics do nothing to emphasize the scale of it

view from our hostel
The view from our hostel in El Calafate, cant complain!

beach pto madryn
The beach in Puerto Madryn where you can spot whales

pete whale watching
Pete in is whale watching finery

chloe on boat
And Chloe in hers on the boat.. the gear was a god send as it was freezing

whale head and tail
The male Whale was alot smaller than the female

whale tail
The females tail

whale head
The females head

beach on paninsula
This beach on the peninsula will be covered with thousands of Elephant seals in a couple of months

elephant seals
Here are just a few of the smaller females

Chiloe

Sunday, August 17th, 2008
houses on stilts in the rain Chloe Writes: We couldn´t leave Chile without visiting at least one more place seeing as we had been there for so long. We decided on the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Santiago

Saturday, August 9th, 2008
Old & New Pete Writes: Oh my head hurts, I don’t think I have used my brain this much since I left college! It has been lots of fun though and I ... [Continue reading this entry]