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More on Food in Lima

Wednesday, August 22nd, 2007

I stayed more days in Lima than the two posts here, but most of the hightlights of those days in Lima were the food.  Twice Kitty and I ordered pollo a la brasa (rotisserie chicken) from Pardo’s Chicken.  The skin was seasoned with salt, pepper, and other spices I couldn’t identify but made the chicken flavorful but not spicy.  It was served with a garlic sauce and mayonnaise for dipping. One time I was able to get yucca fries with it. 
 

My last full day in Lima I went to La Mar, a very famous ceviche restaurant in Miraflores.  Ceviche is a kind of raw seafood dish with lime juice and onions.  I ordered a bowl of it along with a pisco cocktail made from aguaymento, a fruit that looked like a yellow cherry tomato but tasted sweeter. For dessert I had suspiro limeno (Breath of Lima), which should be called Walk of the Diabetic.  It was a bowl of manjar, a kind of carmelized sugar–much too sweet to be eaten alone.
 

I still had room that night for the dinner Elcina prepared for a reception at Kitty’s apartment. Jodi, Marcela, Jorge, and administrators of BNCs in and near Lima were there.  For appetizers we had awesome guacamole (mashed avocado with spices) and tortilla chips, and fried yucca with huancaina sauce, a peanut sauce from the Huancayo region of Peru. 
 

For dinner, we had aji al gallina, chicken in a creamy sauce, lomo asado (roast beef), sweet potatoes, regular potatoes, rice with vegetables, and rice without vegetables.  It was all so delicious.  Even the Peruvians raved about how good the food was.  Since they had most certainly tried these dishes many times at home and in other places, their praise carried more weight in my opinion.
 

For dessert, we had alfajors from Wong supermarket. Alfajors (sounds unfortunately like alpha-whores) are shortbread cookies with a layer of manjar in between and powdered sugar sprinkled on top.  They were sweet but not deadly.
 

July 21: Central Lima

Wednesday, August 22nd, 2007

Kitty had been informed by the Cultural Liaison Officer at the U.S. Embassy that there was a guided bus tour of Central Lima available for Embassy workers and their friends or family.  The cost was $5.  It was an offer I couldn’t refuse.
 

The Tour

 

We saw many sights including the Congress Building, the Church of San Pedro, Plaza Mayor, Plaza San Martin, and the Santo Domingo artisan market.  The two highlights of the day, though, were the Museo del Banco Central de Reserva (the Museum of the Central Reserve Bank) and the Church of San Francisco. 
 

The museum was not actually about the Central Reserve; rather, they used the former reserve bank’s space to display traditional ceramics. Its vault was used to store and display gold jewelry dating back several hundred years B.C.  It seemed more real to me than the gold in the museum at Larcomar, and this building had free admission.  The tour guide also said the museum had the cleanest bathroom on the tour.  At that announcement, my respect for her grew immensely.
 

The Church of San Francisco was either in a poorer neighborhood, was run by a less ostentatious religious order than other cathedrals and churches in the area, or both.  It was surrounded by pigeons and the doors and walls seemed worn down and in need of a paint job.  Two ladies were setting up tables to sell food to raise money for the church’s renovation.
 

The church has a 5 soles entrance fee per person, which the tour guide paid for all of us.  We saw the main altar, the beautiful garden courtyard with the brick walkways laid out in the shapes of crosses, and the library with ancient books in disrepair.  The tour guide said the Franciscans don’t have enough money to restore these treasures.
 

The last stop on the tour was the catacombs.  Here we saw hallway after hallway of bones and wells covered at the bottom with skulls and bones.  Some collections of bones were covered with glass because in the past people had been known to steal bones.  Not me.  I was so horrified by the first sight of skulls in a well I couldn’t even take a picture.  By the end of the tour, though, I was able to take a picture of one, as well as a picture of a sign that said “keep walking.” I thought it was ironic that this sign was surrounded by bones and a stairway that went nowhere.
 

By the time we got out of the church, the two ladies selling food for the fundraiser had opened the stand for business.  The tour guide bought some papas rellenos (stuffed potatoes) to take on the bus. I asked what they were exactly, and she said, “You’ve never had papas rellenos? Oh, you’re gonna LOVE them!” She then proceeded to buy me one because I didn’t have any small change and we needed to get on the bus.  It turned out it was mashed potatoes that filled with meat, beans, and corn, then rolled up and deep fried.  It was fattening but delicious!
 

A Tale of Two Taxis (and a museum)

 

We got on the bus and got back to the Embassy at about 1:00.  I’ve been advised not to take the combis in Peru, and you can’t take a taxi on the street because the driver might turn into an alley so his associates can rob you at gunpoint.  This is not an exaggeration—it has happened to many people, including one of Kitty’s colleagues.  Instead, I waited nearly half an hour for a taxi that I called from the Embassy entrance.  My destination: Museo de la Nacion. I thought it would be like the Smithsonian or the British Museum, but it was much more modest.  Of course, so was the price (7 soles).  There was a nice collection of pre-Columbian art and Inca Gold among the dioramas of Peruvian civilizations.  There was also an exhibition of Peruvian Indian handicrafts.  The bright, colorful fabrics, intricate pottery, and alpaca sweaters and rugs were more impressive than the main exhibits.
 

When I left the museum, there was one taxi waiting.  I didn’t like the looks of that so I went across the highway to Plaza Vea, a huge grocery store.  Sure enough, the store had its own taxi drivers.  The driver seemed nice, and suggested a fair price to return to Kitty’s.  Twice on the way to Kitty’s I shut my eyes because of his driving, but I wasn’t robbed at gunpoint so I feel it was a successful journey. 
 

July 18-19: Miraflores

Wednesday, August 22nd, 2007
My flights from Los Angeles to El Salvador and from El Salvador to Lima on TACA Airlines were great, especially since I lucked out and got an emergency exit row seat on both flights.  When I ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lima Introduction and Pictures

Wednesday, August 22nd, 2007
Hi,   I’m sure by now you have all heard about the devastating earthquake in Peru.  Some of my friends and family have already called or written to ask if ... [Continue reading this entry]

August 2: Arequipa

Tuesday, August 14th, 2007
Leaving Tacna I woke up early, showered, and had breakfast. Unlike the Americans who had stayed at the hotel chosen by PeruTESOL, I didn’t have to flip a switch and wait half an hour for the hot water to be ... [Continue reading this entry]

Tacna and Arequipa, Peru Photo Link

Tuesday, August 14th, 2007
Here’s part 3 of the Peru Pages. I’m trying to dribble them out so that people aren’t overwhelmed as they were with the Togo Tome.  This next one is about Arequipa, called “The White City” or ... [Continue reading this entry]

August 5, 2007: Lake Titicaca Islands and Towns

Saturday, August 11th, 2007
We had to be at the conference at 8:15 so that it would end in time for participants to catch their buses home. Thus, we had breakfast at the hotel at 7. In addition to the buffet offerings, there was ... [Continue reading this entry]

August 4, 2007: Shopping and Eating in Puno

Saturday, August 11th, 2007
We had breakfast at the hotel, then I had two presentations in the morning. During lunch, we (me, Kitty, English Language Specialist Dr. Jodi Crandall, and Marcela) took an extremely short cab ride to Calle Lima, a long pedestrian ... [Continue reading this entry]

August 3, 2007: First Day in Puno

Saturday, August 11th, 2007
Kitty and I arrived at the Juliaca airport around 8:30 am. As in Cuzco, a Peruvian band was playing music at the baggage carrousel. I ended up buying a CD. A driver wearing a jacket with the Hotel Libertador logo ... [Continue reading this entry]

Puno and Lake Titicaca Photos

Saturday, August 11th, 2007
Hello everyone, I got back safe and sound to California late Tuesday night (the 7th). I spent the next few days unpacking, seeing friends, reading the last Harry Potter book, and trying to readjust to American culture. Here is the ... [Continue reading this entry]