BootsnAll Travel Network



Articles Tagged ‘Travel’

More articles about ‘Travel’
« Home

The End of the Wanderings

Friday, December 31st, 2010

Well, that’s it.

Almost eight years to the day since we got together and began backpacking around the world, we arrived in Geneva at the start of October, put our backpacks away, and began our new lives as settled professionals (or at least, Wendy began her new life as a settled professional; I began mine as a settled househusband and an unsettled French student).

Needless to say, we are incredibly thankful to have had the opportunity to visit so many places; by my estimate, we’ve been travelling for just over half of our eight years together (more than four years!), and that doesn’t include the travelling we did on our own before we met each other. We realise we have been extremely lucky to have stumbled into two different types of short-term jobs (tour guiding in Rome 2001-2004 and Games work 2005-2010) which allowed us to go off adventuring virtually whenever we wanted.

As I write from our cosy living room in the centre of Geneva, I can hardly believe that we managed to travel so far and for so long, with virtually no possessions other than what we could fit into our (increasingly smaller) backpacks. Not counting one and two-week trips here and there from our temporary bases, we did nine long trips, ranging from three to 17 months each.

To try to sum up this entire experience in one post is pretty futile, but fortunately I began writing this thing about four years ago and so about half of our travels together are chronicled here, beginning (coincidentally enough) with our least favourite trip which centred – by complete accident, I swear – around West Africa (though I should point out that the start of the trip, mostly featuring Yemen and Morocco before we got to sub-Saharan Africa, was fabulous).

Dome of the Rock

If I had to choose a favourite entire trip, it would probably be the first one: four months overland from Cairo to Istanbul in early 2003. To be able to travel through the cradle of civilisation, see such extraordinary cities as Jerusalem, Damascus and Istanbul and spectacular ruins such as Petra, Ba’albeck, Palmyra and too many to list in Egypt – with virtually no other tourists in the region at the time because of the impending Iraq war – was remarkable. When you’re only just starting to travel and aren’t jaded at all, and you stumble across these types of places, you can barely believe it.

Other favourite individual destinations over the years are: Antarctica (so surreal that it really did feel like a different planet altogether); Nepal (the Annapurna Circuit & Sanctuary, 24 straight days trekking, was one of the best things we’ve ever done); Pakistan (surprisingly fantastic); Madagascar (lemurs!); Andalucía (it made a lovely honeymoon); and several countries in Latin America, notably Argentina, Chile, Perú, Colombia, Cuba and Mexico.

Street Prayers

Meanwhile, many months spent in India and China were both phenomenal and frustrating (often on the same day), but as the time passes since our last visits, the frustration begins to disappear from memory and we’re left with two of the most fabulous and fascinating cultures on earth – ones in which you could easily spend a year or two travelling and not run out of new places to go and new things to experience.

Well, if I don’t stop talking about these places now then I probably never will, so as far as reminiscing goes, I will leave it there.

Of course, since we have strategically located ourselves in the middle of Europe, hopefully there will be plenty more travelling to come. Though now it will take the form of 2-4 week trips abroad and long weekends in Europe, beginning with a trip to Interlaken this weekend for the annual ‘warty ogre’ festival.

Finally, given that our lives have changed so much with this move to Switzerland and we are no longer travellers in the sense that we used to be, I think it’s time to retire this blog. I may start a new one to describe future travels, but I think this one should stand on its own as homage to our years of wandering, which we will probably always remember as the best years of our lives.

Latvia: Alternative Riga, medieval castles, lots of apples, and Lenin in a box

Thursday, September 24th, 2009

It’s always pretty extraordinary to fly directly from the Third World to the First World, but it was especially so on our flight from Uzbekistan to Latvia, considering how massively different the two places seem while remembering that, less than two decades ago, they were both part of the Soviet Union and, as such, the now-defunct Second World. (The original division of the globe into three ‘worlds’ was political, not economic, in nature: the First World represented the United States and its allies, the Second World contained the Soviet Union and its allies, and the Third World consisted of the remaining, non-aligned countries.) It’s hard to imagine that these two countries were once both ruled by distant Moscow, given the extreme differences in development, culture, religion, geography and just about everything else.

Lenin in a BoxAnd since the fall of European communism another important difference has arisen between Central Asia and the Baltics that I’ve noticed over the past few days: the attitude of both regions to the Soviet period. In a 10-minute stroll in the centre of the Kyrgyz capital Bishkek, for example, you can see at least three statues or plaques dedicated to Lenin, a statue of Marx and Engels, numerous Soviet-era buildings still adorned with the hammer-and-sickle, and a Lenin shrine at the State Historical Museum, with yet more statues of the revolutionary leader amid much pro-Soviet and anti-American propaganda – all of which almost gives you the feeling that the USSR is still alive and well in 2009. In the Latvian capital Riga, however, a poignant inscription at the former KGB headquarters describes torture and humiliation, an old city museum is dedicated to the 1940-1991 ‘occupation’ of the country, and only one government building in the whole city – the so-called ‘Stalin’s Birthday Cake’ tower – still has the hammer-and-sickle insignia on it (and not everyone’s happy about it). Even in the small town of Cēsis, a symbolic tombstone speaks of the ‘communist horror’. And as for Lenin statues, the only one we’ve seen so far was lying on his back inside an open box in the grounds of the old castle at Cēsis being pelted with hailstones, abandoned and forgotten by all but a few curious tourists. Arguably the most significant figure of the 20th century is now out of Latvian sight, and out of the Latvian mind.

Since I’ve spent the past three days posting on Facebook about how awesome it is to be in Europe after spending almost all of the last two years in Asia, I won’t beat that drum anymore here, but needless to say, it’s been very enjoyable so far. Riga is a pleasant capital, with an historic old town typical of Northern Europe with its cobblestone streets, pastel coloured houses and imposing brick churches. But the best part of our stay in the capital was probably when we took a free tour into some of the less postcard-worthy areas of Riga – past old warehouses, through produce markets and flea markets and 24-hour open-air markets, into the decaying, fire-prone ‘Little Moscow’ neighbourhood and past the aforementioned former KGB headquarters and controversial hammer-and-sickles on the Stalin-era tower. Our guide spoke of the Latvian disdain for the Russians who make up 43 per cent of the city’s population but refuse to learn the Latvian language, of the horror of the Soviet period, and many other interesting things. All in all, it was a memorable if completely different introduction to an EU capital from anything we’ve experienced before.

ApplesAfter a day-and-a-half in Riga (we will return at the end of our Baltic trip for another day before flying out), we’ve spent the past two days in two small towns in the Latvian countryside, Sigulda and Cēsis. Sigulda, where we’ve based ourselves, is a nice, leafy town (especially now in autumn) with a relaxed atmosphere and a few ruined castles in its vicinity. Yet what I’ll remember most about Sigulda are the many wild apple trees all over town; whenever we walk past one, we pluck a couple of apples from it, take a bite, and walk on. Underneath some of the trees there are dozens of applies lying on the ground; in fact there’s such an abundance of apples that on one sidewalk a box full of them lay with a note asking passers-by to take one if they pleased.

Medieval CastleWe spent most of today in nearby Cēsis. The town itself wasn’t nearly as picturesque as it was made out to be, but its AD 1209 medieval castle was pretty fantastic. When you buy your entrance ticket, the staff hand you a candle-lit lantern so you can negotiate three levels of dark, spiral staircases in the western tower, admiring the vaulted roof on the second floor and the views of the castle grounds and beyond from the top. We also climbed down a staircase into a chilling dungeon, and both of these experiences helped us imagine what the castle would have been like in its day. While we were at the castle the Latvian weather did its best to freak everyone out: the sky turned incredibly dark grey while we were at the top of the tower, it then began pouring on us (and Lenin in his box) once we got out, then came the hail (not so different from Kyrgyzstan after all), and finally some sunshine. Once we were back in Sigulda, it was mostly a lovely afternoon – and then tonight it rained some more.

After an enjoyable few days in Latvia, tomorrow we travel to Estonia, the northernmost of the three Baltic states. Our plan there is similar to what it was here: to spend two or three days in the capital, Tallinn, and two more days in a smaller town or two.

A tale of two cities: Bukhara and Samarkand

Monday, September 21st, 2009

Within five minutes of our arrival in Bukhara, we were drinking vodka with the jovial, large-bellied owner of our guesthouse – straight, and in a bowl, as is the custom here. Even in the most Muslim and least Russian ... [Continue reading this entry]

Across the Kazakh Steppe to the Caspian Sea

Thursday, September 10th, 2009

Since leaving Turkistan, we’ve travelled 2500km in two separate train journeys to the far west of Kazakhstan, so far that according to guide book speak we’re almost in Europe (as though once you cross the Ural Mountains it's all ... [Continue reading this entry]

Southern Kazakhstan: Holy Tombs and Ramadan

Wednesday, September 2nd, 2009

The devastating Soviet oppression of Islam in Central Asia has led – even nearly two decades after the collapse of the USSR and subsequent independence of the five Central Asian republics – to a religious apathy I’ve never before ... [Continue reading this entry]

Changing plans in Bishkek

Wednesday, August 12th, 2009

The weather has more or less returned to its summer state since my last post (last night’s thunderstorm notwithstanding), although we haven’t really been able to enjoy it; rather, all the change in the weather has meant for us ... [Continue reading this entry]

Stumbling onto the Soviet Union. Almost.

Tuesday, July 21st, 2009

Kyrgyzstan – it’s difficult to know where to start. It’s a puzzling but friendly place. One minute you feel as though you really are in the Soviet Union, seeing European faces and statues of Lenin and speaking Russian (well, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Joining the crowds in Lijiang

Wednesday, May 13th, 2009

I’m not sure exactly when I first heard of Lijiang, but it was at least a few years ago and well before I stepped foot in China for the first time. Like Jiayuguan, it’s a place I’ve always wanted ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Philippines awaits…

Thursday, January 8th, 2009

Trying to explore the world’s second-largest archipelago in 59 days (the length of our visas) is a bit daunting, but we will give the Philippines our best shot over the coming two months.

With over 7000 islands, a ring ... [Continue reading this entry]

First World Asia

Thursday, January 8th, 2009

Sure, it’s artificial, manufactured, sterile - even fake – while its cleanliness is so pedantic to be on the verge of silly and the irksome rules you must adhere to in order to maintain that cleanliness can be tiring ... [Continue reading this entry]