BootsnAll Travel Network



Archive for the 'Yemen' Category

« Home

Last day in Yemen…

Tuesday, January 9th, 2007

…though I shouldn’t speak too soon. We bought tickets for a bus that leaves in one hour, at 4pm, and is supposed to arrive in Salalah, Oman, at about 8am tomorrow morning.

We’ve spent the past couple of days in Wadi Hadramawt, the longest wadi in the Middle East. The most famous place here is Shibam, a centuries-old walled town in which all the houses are ‘skyscrapers’ – some are eight storeys high, which gives the place the nickname ‘the Manhattan of the Desert’. The houses are not as pretty as those in Sana’a, but they’re taller. For me, the most intruiging aspect of Shibam was perhaps not the construction of the houses (which is remarkable), but the need to construct them in this manner in the first place. There’s heaps of empty space, even today, around Shibam. It seems to me that the inhabitants could easily have built one storey houses and expanded the city in all directions. Instead, for reasons unknown, they built an amazingly compact city and the only sprawl was upwards, not outwards. Hopefully I’ll be able to put up some pictures within the next few days.

So, that’s it for Yemen. I definitely enjoyed the people, architecture and landscapes of the country and it’s completely different from Qatar, which I suppose is what we sought in the first place. Now it’s onto Oman, which will be closer to the oil states but hopefully still interesting enough.

Some final ‘stats’ on Yemen that I didn’t mention earlier, to give you a little idea of what life is like here. The man whose hotel we stayed in at Kawkaban married his wife when she was 11, and she had their first child at 12 1/2. They now have seven children (she is 26), but he said that’s all they’ll have. He said one woman in the village has given birth to 24 children! Family planning eh?

Zabid and some markets

Saturday, January 6th, 2007

Another day, the same internet cafe in Sana’a…

We spent the past few days on another excursion, this time to the red sea coast. Our main reason for going was to visit Zabid, a world heritage listed site that, like Sana’a, is also on the list of endangered world heritage sites. It was easy to see why. Zabid is not a pretty town like Thula or Sana’a, and within its crumbling walls are mostly dirt alleyways and poor living quarters – this was the most poverty we’ve seen in Yemen so far. Among these houses are many old mosques, almost all whitewashed with some domes and small minarets. I guess you could say that Zabid was not as grand as we’d hoped when we first decided to go there, but I thought it was OK and worth a visit. I took some nice pictures, so I’m happy!

We visited two markets while we were in the area – the morning fish market at Al-Hudayda, which was quite good. We saw some stingrays and the rest of the fish were huge. The fishermen were almost all African and in this whole region, which is very close to Djibouti by boat, there was definitely a bit of an African feel. The other market was the livestock market at Beit Al-Faqih, which was also pretty cool and worth a visit. It’s basically a large field full of mostly cows and goats and bargaining Yemenis. We had met up with the Belgians Tin and Fre again in Zabid so we went to the market together and were the only foreigners there (which is always nice).

This afternoon, back in Sana’a, we went to the ‘rock palace’ just outside the city in Wadi Dhahr. It is (as you might expect) a beautiful Sana’a style tower house dramatically situated on top of a large rock. It was quite picturesque in the afternoon light and was more impressive than I thought it would be.

Tonight is our last night in Sana’a; tomorrow morning at 6:30am we’re taking a bus to central Yemen to see the country’s third world heritage site and one of its most famous places – Shibam, home of ancient skyscrapers. I’m not sure exactly how things will turn out over the next few days but with any luck we’ll be in Oman by Thursday or so, insha’allah

A very Yemeni festival

Tuesday, January 2nd, 2007

After a couple of days in and around Kawkaban, we're back in Sana'a plotting our next move. Unfortunately the wedding that was to be held today was postponed until next week as the father of the bride is still ... [Continue reading this entry]

Eid Mubarak

Saturday, December 30th, 2006

Well, today is the first day of Eid, the multi-day Muslim holiday that occurs twice a year - once after Ramadan, and the other (this one) after the hajj to Mecca.

Eid is not turning out to be to ... [Continue reading this entry]

More exploring

Friday, December 29th, 2006

After our organised trip to Shahara earlier in the week, we wanted to go off on our own as we usually do (though it's harder in Yemen than in most countries), so we spent the past two days exploring ... [Continue reading this entry]

A couple more things

Friday, December 29th, 2006

Two things I inexplicably left out of my last entry:

- The road to Shahara is, for at least part of the way, the main pilgrim trail from Sana'a to Mecca. On the side of the road we often ... [Continue reading this entry]

The real Arabia? I think we found it…

Wednesday, December 27th, 2006

We've just come back from a two-day, one night trip to Shahara, a mountain top village north of Sana'a that's about 2000m above sea level. The only way to go is by hiring a car and driver, and while ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lost in Time

Sunday, December 24th, 2006

Sana'a is magical.

I hoped and expected that I would be fascinated by this place, but I think it has exceeded even these lofty expectations, which doesn't happen too often. The old city is one of the most extraordinary ... [Continue reading this entry]

What’s in Yemen, anyway?

Thursday, December 21st, 2006

Why, plenty of things, and thanks for asking.

Yemen is one of those places - and there are a few that we've been to - that doesn't have much appeal for the average tourist. But that's half ... [Continue reading this entry]

Arabia: what’s it really like?

Saturday, December 16th, 2006

Mention of the Arabian Peninsula conjures up romantic images of exotic fairytales and far-away legends, of star-lit desert nights and camel-led caravans over endless, pristine sand dunes.

Arabia is one of the most fabled places in the world, but ... [Continue reading this entry]